Ready to crank for the first time what am i forgetting
 

So because of no oil pressure when I started her up in the spring, for the last 4 months I have been working my 91 S2.

It was a case of every layer of the onion I peeled away I exposed something that needed to be fixed.

As of last night it is all back together except some suspension stuff. Honestly I am nervous to crank it up. Here is the list of what I have done:

Rod bearings
Oil pan gasket / Pickup and return seals
Oil cooler/filter console removed cleaned new seals (installed with alignment tool)
New used nice condition OPRV
New used nice condition Oil pump
New oil pressure sender
New oil pump drive
New water pump, thermostat
New belts (all rollers and idlers are only 2 yrs old so did not change them)
New main and balance shaft seals and o rings
Every other seal and gasket that I came across
New rear fuel lines
New tie rod ends
New motor mounts
New fitting for power steering reservoir to pump hose
New plugs, wires

Although I have done some work on the car over the last 4 years this is the deepest I have ever gone and cranking it is making me nervous.

Anything anyone wants to suggest I double check before connecting the battery and cranking away.

Thanks

Before connecting the battery, remove the spark plugs and hand crank the engine to make sure that there are no binds anywhere in the rotation.

After that, connect the battery and use the starter to crank the engine and check if you have oil pressure indicated on the gauge.

Then, install the plugs, cross your fingers and try to start the engine.

Let it run for about 15 seconds, then stop and look for leaks.

Fix whatever leaks you find, then run it for about 5 minutes.

After that, it should be good to go.

What George Said,

Fully charged battery.

Prime the oil pump.
Try these tips or search for more.
PorscheDoc is a pro mechanic:
priming oil pump - Rennlist Discussion Forums

Remove the DME/Fuel pump relay when you check for oil pressure. Prevents fuel from washing cylinder walls and ending up in crankcase.

RECHECK all top of engine electrical connections--like the AFM main cable. Put back DME/FUEL pump relay.

GOOD LUCK!
J_AZ

you can have the plugs in just pull the plug at the distributor and there won't be any spark.

Pulling the plugs will allow you to hand crank the motor a turn or two to ensure there's not mis-timing of the timing belt or anything else mechanical before turning to the electric starter. All of the above notes are a good step-by-step guide to make sure all your hard work will have positive results. Good luck in your testing.

Competition Engine Break In Procedures:

"Competition Engineering - Break In Procedure for Engines assembled by Competition Engineering"

Did you notice the warning on Synthetic oils and cam shafts??

J_AZ

What car is that procedure for? I just noticed it said 3 quarts and was confused..

I suppose this goes for any car that has sat for many months, the oil pooling down somewhere away from where it is supposed to be?

that is, would it be recommended for any sort of long-term repairs, or extra cautious if the engine went untouched... or something else...

Also, don't forget to cross your fingers.

No matter what you do, or how well you prepare, there will always be a very large amount of apprehension the first time you turn the key after performing major work.

There are a lot of very good suggestions presented by those who I am sure have much more experience than I and they all sound like very sound recommendations.

I still consider myself a novice, I have torn down and rebuilt seven engines, only one of which was a Porsche (my current 944). Every time I turn the key for the first time I am very nervous that I have overlooked something.

Good luck

Nice catch.
Probably an engine with a smaller crankcase.

5 quarts (min dipstick mark) in the 944 and one quart used to prime the oil pump depending on method.

J_AZ

I was a commercial pilot and I always crossed my fingers when starting the engines :)

SHE'S ALIVE:)

Put oil in both holes in the oil filter console and hand cranked it for a couple of minutes. They cranked with the starter for about 15 seconds and saw oil pressure. So fired her up.

Oil pressure is strong and there are no leaks that I noticed yesterday. I will take a look this morning o see if any developed over night.

Holds an idle well but if I rev it when the rpm's drop back down it stalls. I am going to look around today for any vacuum lines that may be unplugged etc and report back.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Nice!!!

Great to hear.

Check the wiring to the AFM and look inside to make sure the "door" is swinging freely.

Under the intake "J" tube----an easy place to have a loose connection or broken plastic part.

J_AZ

Will check the AFM and clean the connector. I already know that I am missing the metal clip that holds the plug into the AFM. Anyone know if I can purchase it somewhere?

The "U" shape metal clip sells for about $4 to $??? + s/h new.

I would send you a spare if I had one.

Maybe someone who replied or post another thread WTB and a generous member will have it.

J_AZ

thanks John I will ask around for the clip.

So I still cant get it to idle well. It seems to run ok perhaps not as smooth as it should but good oil pressure and stays cool. I ran it for quite a while in the garage and the temp never got hot enough to kick the fans in. But as soon as I give it gas as I come off the gas it will drop down and stall.

I got the rest of it together and took it for a very short drive around the block and it stalled at the stop sign as soon as I put in the clutch from second.

So far I have looked around and did not see any vacuum hoses disconnected. Checked all hose connections and they look good. Cleaned the AFM and ICV connectors and replugged them.

Next I guess I will take the hose off the AFM and make sure the door is not stuck. What else should I be looking at.

Could it possibly be that the gas in the tank is too old. I filled it up in late October when I put it away. I did add stabil but I wonder if that could be a problem.

Or any chance I could have messed up the timing somehow which is making it run kind of rough and not hold idle.

Any opinions or advice is appreciated.

thanks

Mark

The list is long of things that could cause your problem. There's some easy and cheap steps you can do to check your vacuum system. Get a 2" PVC cap from Home Depot and drill and insert an air hose fitting in the middle. Insert the cap into the intake of the J boot and clamp it down the the ring clamp. Apply no more than 10psi to the fitting and then go over the entire engine with soapy water solution from a spray bottle. Even under the j boot and the intake manifold. Look for bubbles. I even had bubbles from my throttle body (small rubber seals in the shaft). Once you've solved all the leaks, look for spark plug wires out of firing order, loose connectors on the fuel injectors, loosed connections on the DME temp sensor, TPS and AFM and spark plugs and distributor. Also make sure you didn't crack an insulator on a spark plug when installing it (it happens). I'll connect a couple of pics for your consideration.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1376227831.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1376227862.jpg

I think I am running on 2 cylinders. I just ran it and it just sounds weird kinda like a Harley. I took the temperature if the headers and cylinders 1 and 4 at at like 350f but 2 and 3 are like 150.

I checked the plug wires and they are correct but could I have made a mistake when I put together the distributor/rotor?

Thanks

Never mind. Always the stupid things left for last. I reversed plug wired 2 and 3. She is running FANTASTIC. Going for a drive. :):)

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Well done!

J_AZ