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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tampa,FL
Posts: 134
Early 924 Auto Flex Damper solution

While going through this procedure I was able to find very little information on this subject. There is plenty of info for the 944, but it is pretty much useless for the 2L cars. The "clutch/pressure plate fix" is not an option for the 2L cars.

Removal of flex damper
Assuming the transmission, exhaust and such has been removed at this point. To separate the driveshaft tube from the engine and remove the old flex damper: Once the access panel on the front bell housing is removed there is a pinch block behind the damper that will need to be loosened. Break loose the bell housing bolts, but do not remove them just yet. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the metal ring of the damper to the flywheel. You should be able to slide the tube away from the engine just about enough to get your hand inside. With a long drift, very lightly tap the center hub towards the back of the car; just enough to expose this circlip.(I tapped it too far back and cracked the splines off the center hub. I would have preferred to keep this intact b/c I believe I have another fix- but that's another story; moving on)
Once this circlip is removed(and the starter and engine/bell housing bolts are removed) the tube can be slid back. I had to unbolt the bell housing from the tube, lower the tube and find a certain angle to get the parts out.

Old 09-22-2013, 05:21 AM
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The "clutch/pressure plate fix" doesn't work for the 2L b/c the splines on the driveshaft do not extend far enough to reach the clutch disc. To use this fix a driveshaft from a standard transmission car would need to be used.
My first attempt was to modify the hub on a disc but it failed.


Old 09-22-2013, 06:28 AM
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The solution
I took the metal ring from the original damper to a local performance clutch shop. I went just looking for a hub but the guy presented a 4 puck disc that could be assembled with the spline size needed. The 8 3/8" 4 puck disc was a perfect fit on the perimeter of the metal ring. The benefit to this was I didn't have to worry about centering the hub. The 6 puck was an even better fit but he would've had to order it and I didn't see the point to waiting. I did stitch welds on the top side and a heavy bead on the back side.
This next part may be overkill but I drilled and tapped the flywheel for bolts to add support to the 4 puck disc area of the set up. I made spacers to keep the bolts from crushing and distorting the part. I used red Loctite to keep them in place.
P.S. Sorry the pics are sideways. I don't know why they are that way. This isn't how they're oriented prior to me posting. If anyone knows how to fix that- feel free.









Last edited by BryanM; 09-22-2013 at 06:46 AM..
Old 09-22-2013, 06:42 AM
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