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How to remove rear Hub and Brake Rotor when trail arm is not installed on car?

Being an idiot I removed the rear suspension from my parts car but didnt remove the hub and brake rotor when I could have done with the handbrake on.

So...Now I can't find a way to remove it. The 32mm nut is really tight and no matter how I try to brace the rotor with a bar I can't get enough force on it without it moving on me, one way or the other...

Any suggestions?

Also, how the heck do I pop off the tie rod ends and the ball joints on the front control arms? I have these two things but I can't get it off, not sure if I'm using them right, or enough...


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Last edited by mhariush; 10-23-2013 at 09:21 PM..
Old 10-23-2013, 09:14 PM
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Go to a shop and have them hit it with a 3/4" impact wrench
Old 10-23-2013, 09:39 PM
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good idea. how many rpms ft/lbs should that be? i have a compressor, maybe its time to get an impact wrench...
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Last edited by mhariush; 10-23-2013 at 09:45 PM..
Old 10-23-2013, 09:41 PM
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Ball joints are just clamped by the nut on the spindle. Loosen the nut and remove the bolt and things should separate easily.

I use a tie rod fork to remove mine, but you should be able to get those with the tools you have.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:52 PM
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I hammered my tie rods out with a REALLY BIG BFH
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:34 PM
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the top tool works great for the balljoints but be aware it makes a HUGE popping sound which sounds like you just broke something.

for the hub nut youre gonna need a BFimpact gun. if its electric, skip the battery and just plug it into some uranium for max power
Old 10-24-2013, 05:18 AM
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I have a 1/2" 230 ft/lbs wrench, will that do the trick or need something more powerful?
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhariush View Post
I have a 1/2" 230 ft/lbs wrench, will that do the trick or need something more powerful?
I do not think that that will get it done, but with a helico lube or such, and a lot of time, maaaybe.

I did it on the car, without the parking brake, and a 1/2" drive torque wrench, I would slam the wheel opposite the torque wrench, and was able to get it off after a few tries of penetrating lube soaking. The torque spec to tight it to is near 300ft/lb's IIRC, add in rust and adhesion, and its gonna take a lot to get it to loosen up.
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:46 AM
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they have an air 700 ft/lbs at HF for around $70 now...maybe I'll give that a try.
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:49 AM
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Gl!
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:05 PM
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thanks lesson learned, do it while on the car next time...

Also learned, drop engine from below, drop front suspension.

I'm sure there are other things I learned too, but can't remember them right now haha.
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:12 PM
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if the calipers are still attached try locking the rotor by inserting an open end into the vanes between the two rotor braking surfaces (cooling slot)

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Old 10-24-2013, 04:28 PM
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