Top end rebuild help

[PHillary]

Going to attempt to rebuild the top end of my car myself and with a little more mechanical inclined friend , I will be taking a lot of pictures of this top-end rebuild project. I kinda just wanted all of my pelican brothers to get behind me on this one with advise and help and foresight on the while you are in there things, because I have never attempted to do something like this before.

[Gawernator]

Pray to the Porsche gods

[jeffrsmith]

Replace fuel lines if they are original (including the jumper), send your injectors out to get the cleaned (Witchhunter provides this service for a reasonable price), replace your vacuum lines (much easier to do while the intake is out of the way). You may also want to replace your oil cooler seals while the exhaust manifold is out of the way (makes the job much easier).

Be very careful when removing the water neck on the front of the head, there are two bolts that tend to become corroded and typically will break when trying to remove, be ready to drill out and install inserts. Same goes for the water fitting at the rear of the head (heater return pipe?).

Good luck!

[guru944]

PHilairy:

We are here with you. Clarks Garage is a great site for tips and idea's.
Please post pics. As things move along.. Thanx, Later...

[Slam]

Plan to spend as much time scraping old gasket material off as you spend disassembling things. And I agree very much with the above posts. The WYIT monster completely takes over. Add your AOS seals to the list too.

[PHillary]

Here are pictures of where it's at right now as far as trying to get everything figured out. I will have to collaborate this my ex-mechanic but as far I know, he told me the bottom end is good, so I got a head from a Porsche salvage yard it had the valves and everything except for the chain tensioner, which I am debating on rebuilding or buying new. The ex-mechanic put on the new head but the valves and cams have not been set. I brought all off the Porsche recommended tools to set the cams in place. I need to read more I guess on how to use the and magnetic-base gauges and the cam bridges to set everything in place more. I have not turnt a bolt on the car yet except to put a head light duct I brought a while ago from lindsey on the car. Well here are some pics of the engine in its very critical state. Pray for me!

[PHillary]

The exhaust manifold has been disconnected but still on. Do I have to take the engine out to install or replace the oil cooler seals or do I just disconnect the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust line and use the room in the bay to replace the seals?

[PHillary]

I started collecting the tools according to the 944 workshop manual needed for this rebuild so far I have Specialty tools 9248, 9234, 9233, 9226, 1/2" Eastwood digital angle reader and two magnetic base dial gauges. Looking at the tools from ArnnxWorx as it turns out I do not have anything to the belts and rollers with. Silly me, thinking I could change the rollers with regular tools. Lol! Any other tools special or not needed to do this job correctly?

[jeffrsmith]

Originally Posted by PHillary

The exhaust manifold has been disconnected but still on. Do I have to take the engine out to install or replace the oil cooler seals or do I just disconnect the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust line and use the room in the bay to replace the seals?

The exhaust manifold does not need to be removed to do the oil cooler seals, just makes life much easier, giving more room to maneuver. At this point to remove, or not, is your call.

[jeffrsmith]

Originally Posted by PHillary

I started collecting the tools according to the 944 workshop manual needed for this rebuild so far I have Specialty tools 9248, 9234, 9233, 9226, 1/2" Eastwood digital angle reader and two magnetic base dial gauges. Looking at the tools from ArnnWorx as it turns out I do not have anything to the belts and rollers with. Silly me, thinking I could change the rollers with regular tools. Lol! Any other tools special or not needed to do this job correctly?

When I did my belts, I bought the Flywheel Lock (in my opinion required), the combo pin wrench, and the 24/27 MM combination thin wrench. Based on what I read from other posts none of these tools are "required" but personally I would not attempt work on the head or the belts without at least the flywheel lock. Regarding the pin wrench, may people say they are able to get by using 90 degree needle nose pliers to hold the balance shaft pulley's in place while tightening. The thin wrench made it easy to adjust the position of the roller while tightening - necessary, no probably could have done the job with a regular wrench.

[PorscheChef]

PHillary-Where are you located?

[PHillary]

Bartow, Florida

[PHillary]

Missing pages 15-101 & 15-102 from workshop manual can anybody help with this?

[CHICKS]

Originally Posted by PHillary

Missing pages 15-101 & 15-102 from workshop manual can anybody help with this?

Documents - Porsche 951 - texasblake.com-

[PHillary]

It seems like pages 15-101 thru 102 is missing from every .pdf of this manual I saw. What's up with that? Has anybody else noticed this? Is this to stop bootlegging or something?

[CHICKS]

Maybe it was pulled by Porsche? Ill check my paper copy to see if its gone too, or replaced with an updated page, I suspect Porsche just had it omitted.

[PHillary]

Thank You

[PHillary]

I haven't been doing much to the car lately but collecting parts while I am waiting for my ArnnWorxx Tools to come in. So he's the run down:

I have new: ECU, Starter, timing gears, chain tensioner, brackets, belts, water pump, rollers, pulleys(Lindsey), expansion tank, and just about everything part wise that is needed to start working on the motor except for the tools(the right tools).

The thing that made me take my car back from my mechanic is that he told he was going to have the car ready in two weeks, however two weeks came and passed and nothing. He has had my car for almost two years now and has only managed to put the head on the car minus setting the cams in place and putting it all back together. So you can imagine how mad I was about the whole thing.

So I go out and spend just about $1600 or a new bumper (Turbo update), slotted nose panel, and adjustable wing from AIR thinking I was going to be driving in a matter of weeks and nope that didn't happen. So now I have a bumper and spoiler for a car that I can't even drive. Lol! from Crying!

The one thing I did notice about the wing is that it came without any mounting hardware or mounting anything. It was just as showed on the website (without any mounting points or brackets and hardware). I thought it would've came with something to connect it to the hatch frame with. Has anybody else brought this item from them as well or done this type of install from them as well?

Sorry no pics at this time. Will post pics tomorrow?

[MB968]

Unless you've worked on heads before, you might want to consider taking the head to a local shop for rebuild. In Portland there is one machine shop that only does heads, does them for all the shops, and has a very good reputation. When I visited them they must have had over 50 heads in process which they turn around in just a few days. A neighbor of mine that owns a shop doesn't do heads any more; at the price this other shop does them for, it isn't worth doing it at his shop. Don't know if this is common, but you might check your town. Seems to me when I looked into it, that it was about $250 for a complete head rebuild if it didn't need guides, which most probably wouldn't need.

[PHillary]

Mostly out of money right now, he took a good used head from another running 944 S and just put it on my car. so none of the valves have been touched on the new head, He did not set the cams in place or put the waterpump on and other parts I brought, along with putting the rest of the engine back together.