Torsion Bar Housing Installation Woes - Page 2

flash968 · 10-21-2014, 08:57 AM

i am aware of what they are doing at the lower mount. it's the upper mount that would be the issue. if they don't change the 1/2" ID bushing to a 12mm bushing, the mounts will rattle like crazy. ask me how i know. i have to do the same thing on the QA-1 shocks. i now make a 12mm bushing for the ones that we use polyurethane on, and drill out the upper mount for the ones that we use spherical bearings on

by the way, that is the kit to which i was referring. it cannot be used in a car with torsion bars without either reindexing, or expectation of lifting the rear of the car, as it requires preload, which increases the rear spring rate, thereby lifting the rear of the car.

on the subject of this car, the rubber torsion bar bushings will present a problem if the torsion bars are removed. the rubber flexes too much to keep the control arms in place without the torsion bars. you have to use either the noisy delrin bushings or the polybronze.

9FF · 10-21-2014, 09:43 AM

Quote:

i am aware of what they are doing at the lower mount. it's the upper mount that would be the issue. if they don't change the 1/2" ID bushing to a 12mm bushing, the mounts will rattle like crazy. ask me how i know. i have to do the same thing on the QA-1 shocks. i now make a 12mm bushing for the ones that we use polyurethane on, and drill out the upper mount for the ones that we use spherical bearings on

by the way, that is the kit to which i was referring. it cannot be used in a car with torsion bars without either reindexing, or expectation of lifting the rear of the car, as it requires preload, which increases the rear spring rate, thereby lifting the rear of the car.

on the subject of this car, the rubber torsion bar bushings will present a problem if the torsion bars are removed. the rubber flexes too much to keep the control arms in place without the torsion bars. you have to use either the noisy delrin bushings or the polybronze.

You didn't read my post, these come with a 12mm top mount bush fitted.

flash968 · 10-21-2014, 09:49 AM

i read your post. i also looked at their website, which says nothing about that, which surprised me, as they made such a big deal about the lower mount (which they either ripped off from racer's edge or are using the racer's edge mount). if they do it, that's great. i wonder how though, since it would likely mean a poly bushing up top, which won't hold the load of the entire car. if they figured out how to put a spherical bearing in there, with a 12mm bushing, i would love to see it, as i may have a use for those.

9FF · 10-21-2014, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flash968

i read your post. i also looked at their website, which says nothing about that, which surprised me, as they made such a big deal about the lower mount (which they either ripped off from racer's edge or are using the racer's edge mount). if they do it, that's great. i wonder how though, since it would likely mean a poly bushing up top, which won't hold the load of the entire car. if they figured out how to put a spherical bearing in there, with a 12mm bushing, i would love to see it, as i may have a use for those.

There is a top bush included and fitted in their 944 kit and I know for sure it exactly fits the stock top bolt. I have that exact 30 series rear kit on one of mine:

flash968 · 10-21-2014, 10:50 AM

cool - it's just odd that they don't mention that, as it is something that is painfully lacking in other shocks, and would be a key selling point.

is the top bushing a spherical bearing?

Litesonic · Litesonic's Garage

9FF are you with or without TBs?

If with, are you getting unseating at all. It looks like you are 2 in lower on the perch than I am.
I have ordered a set of tenders and a collar to combat this. As I think if I go as low as you my rear ride height will be 2 inches higher. I am currently at 25.25"

flash968 · 10-21-2014, 07:59 PM

unseating is an ugly thing. this is what happens when springs unseat:

flash968 · 08:18 PM

something else to consider is spring length. under no circumstances should a rear primary spring (torsion delete) be less than 8" long fully extended. if it is, it can easily bottom out, which can do a lot of damage. this is even more important if the spring rate is low, as it will bottom out more easily. even 8" is close at 500#.

lots of things to consider

9FF · 10-22-2014, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flash968

cool - it's just odd that they don't mention that, as it is something that is painfully lacking in other shocks, and would be a key selling point.

is the top bushing a spherical bearing?

Yes, spherical top and bottom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Litesonic

9FF are you with or without TBs?

If with, are you getting unseating at all. It looks like you are 2 in lower on the perch than I am.
I have ordered a set of tenders and a collar to combat this. As I think if I go as low as you my rear ride height will be 2 inches higher. I am currently at 25.25"

Yes, no tb's and adjusted only 1in lower than stock. I did fit a helper spring and spacer after that picture was taken to avoid the spring unseating both on the front and rear GC Kit. It's not a tender spring as such it's just a helper and has negligible spring rate, just enough to hold the spring in place. Here's the front with them fitted.

flash968 · 07:09 AM

that's the ticket

i wish those shocks had independent adjustable compression and rebound, and most importantly that they were not gas. it would have saved me a lot of work

9FF · 10-22-2014, 09:00 AM

Quote:

that's the ticket

i wish those shocks had independent adjustable compression and rebound, and most importantly that they were not gas. it would have saved me a lot of work

Hey flash, I bet you still prefer to listen to music on vinyl 😀

These 30-series gas dampers aren't too bad at all. IMO the valving is suited to springs in the range 500-650 which is just the sweet spot on our weight cars for street and mild track use.

flash968 · 09:58 AM

lol - actually, i do, though 2" is my favorite. it sounds better. there is definitely a loss in CD. don't even get me started on downloads.

i've driven on those shocks. they are not dissimilar from the koni yellow sports. they jump and twitch on bumps, whereas a hydraulic shock is smoother. the tradeoff is that gas performs better on the track. personal preference there i suppose.

Litesonic · Litesonic's Garage

My tenders will go in tomorrow, just waiting on the spacer/collar. Sorry for the thread hijack.