what the #5@& are all of these buttons and switches?

Frank B · 10-13-2002, 06:16 AM

I have acquired (someone owed me money) a 1985- 1/2 86 (still waiting for the title) 944. This car is a non turbo or S type. car was living under a pine tree for almost a year and was not moved for about a year. the passenger window was broken, in an attempt to steal the radio I'm guessing. Overall the vehicle was dirty but very cool. The drains on the rear spoiler were jammed with pine needles and mud, and there were weeds growing from all of the body seams.

Well, after having the vehicle flat bedded to my place of employment, I started to wash the car (excavate) of all of the mud and moss and yuk that was covering it. The guys at work were looking at me as though I was wasting my time. After 2 hours of fastidious cleaning I decided that it was clean enough to attempt possibly starting it up.

That's when it got complicated. I couldn'y find the lever to open the hood. After 20 minutes of searching I found it. I filled the coolant tank with anti-freeze and checked the oil. Hmmm.. not much oil in there, probably just leaked out, this happens. Threw in a few quarts, grabbed a jump box and vroom! it started!. Yeah, it was running rough for a few moments, so I jumped in and put it in reverse it moved backwards, then 1st gear, it moved forward.

Alrighty! I drove the car across the parking lot to our detail center. It moved rather nicely across the parking lot, but the steering was really stiff! as I pulled in, our Detail man stopped what he was doing, and walked to where he wanted me to park my new dirty (filthy) Porsche 944, Right next to where he was working.

He asked me "where did this come from?" so I told him. He just looked at me and asked, "have you ever driven one of these before?" I said, "umm, nope....why?" he just laughed a little after I answered him. Well I started to clean out all of the trash from inside of the car, and discovered a pretty cool and sort of classic interior. BUt my god are there alot of buttons (with no indications on them) all over the place. The detail man quietly watched what I was doing then came over to me with a spray bottle and a clay pad. He said, "Frank, come here for a second" So, i exited the car and walked to where he was (the front of the car) he felt the paint, it looked in good shape to me. he sprayed this red stuff on the hood then rubbed the clay pad on it and, (angels singing) wallah the finish was like glass. He then immediatly and hurriedly took over cleaning the car. I didn't ask him to do it but he just sort of got this crazed look on his face like he had found a treasure chest or something.

Well, I slowly crept away as I watched my car being brought back to life by a very experienced Detail man. He cleared his board for the rest of the day, and continued working on my car for 3 days, he even came in on his day off to just play with it a little.

Well, to say that this car looks new is not saying anything at all, this car looks better than I've ever seen one. Apparently the paint used on these mid '80's German cars is as tough as nails, also hard to find now if you need a repair.

The shop guys who heckled the car, are now looking at it and making me offers, I'm not selling this car, it's very cool and feels nice inside. I'm still waiting for a title, so I can get it inspected and have had the Passenger window replaced ($200.00) The steering stiffness scares me a little but our foreign car tech thinks it just needs fluid and a lubing of the steering rack. Other than that it may just need a tune up.

But! I have no Idea what the buttons and switches are on the center console. THey are not marked, so if anyone can help me please do!!

Thanks, sorry for the long post,
Frank M. Brigandi

paulc · 10-13-2002, 08:12 AM

Here is a link for you to copy. Buy yourself a manual if the car didn't come with one...you'll need it to find out little things like fluid capacities, torque specs for the wheels, trip odometer reset button location, etc. It was worth the $20 to me. Good luck and enjoy it.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/944/por_944M_documt_pg2.htm

andrewgoh · 10-13-2002, 08:46 AM

This will help with your understanding of the 944:
http://search.yahoo.com/bin/search?p=porsche+1985.5+dash

The above 944 FAQ applies to 1985-1/2 later models. The dash was redesigned. However, most of the info still applies to 944 in general.

Here is a website that provides a detailed comparison between the pre-1985 and post-1985 dash layouts:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1760/dash.html

I am enjoying my recent purchase of a 1984 944 with 59,000 bucks. She is a beauty to drive. Good luck with your new baby!

Andrew
Portland....home of "Rosa"

andrewgoh · 10-13-2002, 08:50 AM

Oops.....correction....I meant to say "59,000 miles", not "59,000 bucks" in my earlier post.

Now, if I had 59,000 bucks to throw away......I'll buy as 356s, 944s and 911s that my wifey will allow

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Frank,

Welcome to the 944 club. This is fairly exclusive as Porsche only made from 9,000 to a bit over 15,000 per year of these cars. Most of which were shipped to the US and most of these wound up on the west coast. Taking into consideration attrition over the years there are probably half of these still on the road.

The first thing you need to do, well have to do is change the timing and counter balance belts.

NOW!!!

Don't start it. Don't drive it till these are changed!!!!

If you don't you will have a $1,500 valve job head rebuild on your hands.

Also note that the 944 is not a street dragster. It is not a Honda or Toyota "Ricer".

It is a road car. A touring sedan.

The other mechanical things to look for and check are:

Drain and replace the lube in the trans. Synthetic is preferred.

Check the CV joints on the axles. Pull these off and relube them. If the boots are cracked replace them and the CV joints.

The ball joints in the front suspension have a tendency to dry out. Check the rubber weather boots and replace them if marginally cracked. Don't forget to pack some grease into the ball joint too.

There are two u-joints in the steering linkage that have a tendency to stiffen when the car has set for a while. This just may be the stiffness you are referring to. You may have to replace this link if the stiffness doesn't go away.

Watch out for oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. There is an oil cooler just below where the oil filter is that has a tendency to leak into the coolant. Makes it look like mud.

This is just a start. Once you take care of most of these you most likely will not revisit them for a long time.

Keep us posted.

Z-man · Z-man's Garage

If the coolant you put in the car isn't suitable for aluminum blocks, drain it and add the right type of coolant, otherwise, the coolant will start 'eating' at your block!

I too think it would be very, very wise to replace the belts, seals, gaskets...etc. It will keep you from spending mucho more $$ on the car in the long run.

Which buttons are you having trouble with? Did you find the trip odometer reset button yet? Hint: it looks like a vent control knob!

Post some picks!

And congrats on your 944!
-Z.

Bob's944 · Bob's944's Garage

Here's a pic of the switches in front of the shifter on my 85.5 US version NA. The sunroof switch works 2 ways. With the ignition on, it should raise and lower the rear of the roof when pressing the lower portion of the switch, it's a pop-up sunroof. When the ignition is in the accessory positon, depressing the lower portion of the switch disengages the locking arms in the rear so you can remove the roof after loosening the front holding clamps. You might have a vinyl bag under the hatch to store the roof in. Pushing the top part of the switch lowers the pop-up roof with the ignition on, and relocks the roof with the ignition in the Accy position.

The blanks are going to be where... ummmmm yeah... the 75 HP shot nitrous full throttle actived on-off switch and a ram air on-off switch will be located in the future

Frank B · 10-14-2002, 07:24 PM

Wow,
I'd like to thank all of you who replied to my post, I appreciate it verey much. I will certainly take some of your advice that was given.

A belt replacement in my area (philadelphia and suburbs) will probablly cost anywhere from $1,000.00 to $1,7000.00. This is the sucky part. A partial rebuild will run around $3,700.00 or so I've been told. The previous owner said the vehicle was running well, except for being a little rough, like it wants to stall. I have some of the service records from the initial owner he had a ton of stuff done to the vehicle tranny work rear work......he drove it kinda hard it seems, but he did maintain it. My friend only logged around 29k on it, and never had a problem with it, or did much to it. So, for now I'm gonna just drive it for about 2-3 weeks (gingerly) then probablly change the belts and whatever else needs doing once I get a an idea where there may be some driving issues.

Hey, if anyone on this board is from the Philly area, or knows a mechanic (that's not an *******) I'd appreciate a recomendation. I'm trying to avoid the PORSCHE dealers, reason being, I don't think they'd appreciate working on a 944. They seem bugged when I initially called and requested info on parts and stuff for this car. I'm hoping it was just a mechanic having a bad day.

Thanks again,
Frank M. Brigandi

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Replacing two belts that together cost less than $90 at almost any parts stores is $1,000???

Geesh I'm in the wrong business in the wrong town!!!!

Should be no more than $300.

Someone saw you coming.

Doesn't make too much differance how you drive it as I've had belts break going 70 as well at an intersection just idling. Because this car has sat for so long the belts age and don't like being bent and straightened again and again going round all the pulleys.

Get some better quotes and have it done ASAP.

I give it two weeks at the most.

Frank B · 10-14-2002, 10:04 PM

Hmmm,
I was thinking in the 300 range also. the problem that I've been hearing is that no one has the "special tensioning tool" except for a porsche dealer. So, what your saying is, a dealer will probablly charge around $300.00?.. I'll give em a call tomorrow...

Once again thanks, I owe ya..

AFJuvat · 10-15-2002, 02:32 AM

The dealer close to me (well 70+miles away) charges $375 for the belts.

The shop I work in charges $300.

I would allow $500 for the job - you may need a couple of rollers as well.

AFJuvat