Ok, how do I get these valves out?

overkill · 10-30-2002, 08:20 AM

The manual says,... "Remove valve springs with whatever whatever special tool". What? I mean I know I should be using the special tool to do this but I dont have it. Is there another way? How do I get the valve springs out?

AFJuvat · 10-30-2002, 09:05 AM

You are going to have to buy a valve spring compressor.

Compress the springs, remove the keepers, and then GENTLY relieve tension off the springs.

remove the springs, spacers etc (make note of how it all goes together) Ispect springs for cracks warpage etc.

Reach in and remove valve seal, At that point, the valve should drop out of the head.

AFJuvat

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

K-D Tools:

Searched Pellican for this and didn't find it.

Give them a call. They should be able to get these. Or you can find these at a well stocked local Pep boys.

The tips that engage the top of the valve spring keeper are replaceable. The compressor should come with several of different offsets.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Or this version:

Britwrench · 10-30-2002, 04:19 PM

With a 16v head I don't think either of those tools will work.
You need the plastic extension for the c-clamp type compressor.
The plastic protects the lifter bore and allows access to the valev keepers. Damaged lifter bores = Much unhappiness.

It might be easier to take the head to the shop and let them remove the valves, they can fit the new guides at the same time.

overkill · 10-30-2002, 09:25 PM

Well, in the factory manual they are using the first compressor socal listed. Do you guys think it would be better just to find a shop and let them do it? I just dont want them to tell methat I broke more than I really did and over charge me. If I bought the tools needed I could take them out and check them myself and then purchase the replacements myself. The thing is that if the tools cost alot It might be better to just give it to them to do. You know what I am goignto wait a bit and get the cash then call around and get some figures.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Well, yes and no.

The C shaped compressor would need a special head made and mounted. I would use a cheap socket and cut the side out as required mounted to a piece of flat bar steel bent as necessary to fit the two mounting points on the compressor. Hmm, sounds like a good side business.

Or I would see about getting the cheaper of the two Porsche compressors.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Hey, OverKill, be sure to keep the lifters indexed to put back into the same holes they come out of.

Also remember you are going to have to set the height of the new valves too. That means precision grinding off the ends.

todwic · todwic's Garage

well, I guess that's better than my method...

overkill · 10-31-2002, 02:44 AM

Yeah, I bought special containers(disposable rubbermaids) to keep track of what came from where. I dont want to put the new valves in, ill leave that for the shop. I just want to take them out to determine what needs to be replaced so they dont lie and say otherwise. Do you think I should just let them do it all?

EDIT: todwic,... YOU THE MAN!!!!

AFJuvat · 10-31-2002, 03:01 AM

You will probably save yourself some serious aggravation by letting a shop do it - they have the proper tools to get it done.

Most machine shops aren't gonna try to take advantage of you - I wouldn't worry about that too much. Places that have a reputation of screwing people over don't stay in business long.

Ask a couple of repair shops in your area for a recommendation.

AFJuvat

overkill · 10-31-2002, 05:40 AM

Thanks AFJuvat! Thats what I was hoping to hear!

EDIT: todwic,... YOU STILL THE MAN!!! HA HA HA HA!

turbohead7 · 10-31-2002, 07:12 PM

Yo Overkill, sometimes when 944 cam belts break and the valves get smacked hard enough the damage can be seen without removing the valves. Take a good look at the valves down the head, really bent ones will be cocked a little. You can also use a macinists straightedge, lay it across the tops of the installed valves to see if it sits flat. This may not be apparent on your head but good luck!

overkill · 10-31-2002, 08:25 PM

Thanks turbohead7! Dude visually I cant tell whether they are bent or not. I didnt break a belt. They were bent on ignition. They dont look all that bent at all. I did the solvent test after REALLY cleaing up all the carbon and there were 7 of them with bubbles. I think there were like 3 with serious bubbles and the rest of the seven tiny tiny bubbles. The ones with the tiny bubbles might have dirty seats preventing the valves from completely closing. I am going to be looking for a shop soon.

ae1969 · 10-31-2002, 09:09 PM

The only thing I recommend.

Again, I am under the assumption you are just going to get her running and sell her.

Now some guys are really..........really picky about what they do. Some of these guys consider what they do and ART! These guys you want when you are putting together that 951 you are going to buy and try and pump 400RWHP out of it. They will want to replace every valve, spring etc.......

The guy you want will do good work, fast and it will be relatively cheap. This guy wants to pump his work out. He will be in business to make money but will cut corners where he can and save you money just to get that head out of the shop. He will still have a good rep. If a piece is still within spec he will re-use. If you find this guy. Thats the guy you want. Just tell him you are on a budget and just need to get it running.

Get that car running! and get her out of your sight............

overkill · 11-01-2002, 12:28 AM

Yeah thats the guy I need! Yeah I just need to get her running again so I can get rid of her. My friend here at work with all the p-cars i showed you guyz knows a place up in pennsylvania thats suppose to be real good but they might be the "I want to replcae everything" kinda people. The thing is that my friend needs somthing worked on to and he wants to be able to purchase the parts him as i do. I have to look around. I just need to find someone thats cheap and will do the work right. I am still gettting my 951 but the 400RWHP project will have to wait. I need to go back to school first so I can move out of mothers house!!!

overkill · 11-01-2002, 12:36 AM

Ummm, i was thinking that I would replace all the valves and guides. Springs are if needed. what elese should be replaced?

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

I'd recommend Bob Hirst of Atlantic Entgerprises in Pitman, NJ. I've had him do 911 heads for me and some of my friends over the years and we've all been happy. His price to do 911 heads including setting spring height replacing guides/seals/etc but not valves was about the same as the local machinist wanted just for labor. All Bob does is heads or else I'd have him do all my machine work. I trust him enough that I sent him a blank check for the last heads I had done.
Atlantic Enterprises 609 589-5577.
-Chris

overkill · 11-02-2002, 05:38 AM

Really? I'm going to have to talk to him then. Thanks alot Chris.

turbohead7 · 11-05-2002, 07:20 PM

Yo Overkill, check out Cylinder Head World in New Jersey (Trenton, maybe?). I'am not sure exactly where they are, but they're close to Princeton, although I'am not sure exactly where you are either. We sent all of our 944 heads there and they do good work, Porsche is nothing new to them and they will work with a budget!