Crank position sensor problems

[M1Jenkins]

The pesky position senor that left me stranded in a parking lot is back out to get me, I swear.

I spent $450 to have both senors replaced about a month ago (seeing how much a pita these were to get out, I let my mechanic deal with them). Surprise surprise, a month later my car did the exact same thing as the last time it died. Started for a minute, then died. Cranks, but wont start. It has to be the position sensor again.

My question is; what could be the problem with the OEM Bosch one's that I bought? They worked great, my car started FAST for the first two weeks. But as time went on the car gradually took a little bit longer to start. The last time my car turned on, it was a solid 2-2.5 seconds before my car finally turned over.

Any help would be nice. Seems like I'll just have to tow it to the shop again though.

[v2rocket_aka944]

Unlikely it's the sensor, but not impossible.
What led you to replace it last time around?

[911tracker85]

sounds like you need to pursue no-start trouble shooting 101. good luck.

[Rasta Monsta]

Wiring fault between sensors and DME? Those plugs can get pretty bad, for example.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

Wiring fault between sensors and DME? Those plugs can get pretty bad, for example.

I 2nd that motion, the sensors are good on my 951, but the plugs in the back of the intake manifold (dme to speed/ref. sensor) were brittle and bad at the connections.

A wiggle would get it started again, and spend the $120 to get replacement wiring from the dme to the sensor(s) and it should resolve your no start/slow start issue.

[M1Jenkins]

For anyone reading this who may be experiencing similar problems.

- Fault was in a broken bracket that held in the sensors.
- DME failed a week later, replaced that too.

Haven't had any no-start problems since then.

[Arizona_928]

go over the basics. Buy the Bosch BMW ones they're a fraction of the price, but twice as long if you're going to replace again.

[dgcantrell]

Make yourself one of these jumpers and prevent yourself from being stranded by a no-start condition that is almost always the issue. These jumper goes into the DME relay socket and eliminates the DME relay from the equation. IF your car starts with this jumper in place, you have a defective DME relay.





Do NOT leave this jumper plugged in when you exit the car. It will run your battery down as it keeps the fuel pump running. Also, TERMINAL 30 is LIVE POWER all the time. So when plugging it in plug the terminal 30 connector in last. When you do, you will hear the fuel pump kick on and you may also hear the fuel injectors click once. If you hear BOTH those noises, the car is almost guaranteed to start barring any other mechanical issues.