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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Lewiston,ID
Posts: 129
Arrow Ok..new post. Need to do belts..what else to do?

Ok..here is what is wrong. Balance shaft belt went, so I'm scared and am going to do the timing belt, and water pump as well. I also have a leak from what appears to be the dizzy housing. I need to do the motor mounts too. Now..when I do this, is there an easier way to get to the engine (taking the front end off?) Although I don't want to, I thought possibly about pulling the motor. I really want to get this done in the next few weeks without headaches. What, if any should I watch out for? I have the tensioner and other tools available to use along with a factory service manual. Give me some motivation and online tips please? One last question...timing. Will I be able to line things up and get it to turn over easily? And will I need a timing light? Thanx for helpin out this amatuer

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Yes the motor is in the front....
Old 12-19-2002, 02:17 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Kingsport, TN
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To do the water pump, you'll have to have a flywheel lock. You remove the starter and bolt the toothed thing in in its place. That way you can keep the crank from turning to get the pulley off the crank. Reason why you have to get pulley off is because of rear timing belt cover. It will not clear pulley.

You don't need a timing light. Computer controls that; you have no control over it. To get the crank alignment correct, you check three places. One is bottm of clutch housing. There should be a window there. There is a mark on flywheel. There is another window at top of clutch housing near firewall. Lastly, there is a window to right of distributor. There is a mark on the cam pulley that must line up there.

You can do the motor mounts without removing engine. I support engine from above by the lifting lugs - on in front, one at rear of cam housing.

Things to watch out for: Don't mess up your cam timing. If the engine is ok now, just don't turn it over without a belt on it and you'll be ok. Just make sure the timing marks line up properly.
I generally remove entire distributor assembly. There are 10mm bolts two, I think, are under the plastic timing belt cover. That way you don't have to fool around with putting the distributor cap back on. It's not the easiest thing to do.

If you're changing your water pump, change the thermostat too. Some would recommend doing all the seals and cam belt/balance belt pulleys while you're in there. If you remove pulleys, note where the lip is located.

This is sort of quick and spur of the moment. Others will add to it.
Old 12-19-2002, 03:05 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Aspen CO US
Posts: 16,054
Garage
Here is a very important link. This is "Clarks Garage" all of the porcedures you want to do are completely detailed.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/

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Old 12-19-2002, 03:33 PM
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