Help Me Fix My 968

[Westy]

Two issues.

#1 This is simple,,,I think. I cant seem to bleed the air out of the cooling system. I did it once, water came out the bleed screw port, but I can still hear gurgling in the cab, apparently from the heater core and hoses. The car runs really hot in the summer with the AC running, but it doesn't overheat. Would a few air pockets circulating thru the system be the cause? And yes, I let the car warm up with the heater on.

#2 Not so simple. Driving for 45 minutes, +/- , (after sitting for a few days) it drained the battery. My fairly simple meter says 13.5 volts at idle. My NAPA guy has a more sophisticated meter, and he said he thought it seemed low. 250 bucks or so for an alternator, no big deal. But wait! There's more....

When I put my Battery Tender on, the LED never goes to green. If I disconnect the battery terminals, it does. Battery is new cause this situation destroyed the other one. My conclusion is there is a significant draw on the battery. I don't see how the alternator could be the cause, especially with the car off and sitting. So where do I start.

Keep in mind this car is new to me, and I don't understand how the systems tie in with each other. Thanx in advance.

Brian

[dgcantrell]

Check the cooling fans and see if they continue running after the car is turned off. They will run for a few minutes normally but anything more than 5-10 minutes means the temp sensor in the radiator is going bad. This sensor will cause the fans to run all the time at low speed. This will run the battery down quick. I've replaced 2 this year. One in my 87 and one in my 88S.

Is it loosing coolant. Even just a little. You could have a small leak at a hose connection. The small nipple for the return hose connection from radiator to the reservoir on my was cracked on mine. It took me a while to find it. Also the connection for the same hose at the radiator had been leaking previously. I'm seriously entertaining replacing those small clamps with spring clamps.

[flash968]

did you bleed the system correctly?

you must have the heater on the highest temp, the fan on high, and the nose slightly higher than the tail. it must get fully up to operating temp before cracking the bleed screw too.

if you have a removeable face plate radio, remove the face plate. many of those have a heavy draw.

check the hood light and glove box light. they are known to get stuck "on" and cause drains

[Westy]

Well, let's see. I posted this a little prematurely as I start tomorrow or the next day trying to fix this thing. No lights are on when the car is off. No removable face plate on the radio. I bled correctly as you stated (or so I thought!). Fans don't run when I turn off the motor. I will check this again.

The drain is severe. I thought the alternator wasn't charging, but that doesn't explain why the battery drains while sitting in the garage. Such a quandary. With the folks on this forum I KNOW we'll figure it out. I just wish I had more knowledge regarding this car!

[bumflick]

Put an ammeter on the battery with the ignition off. If there is a draw, it will show up. Start pulling fuses, one at a time. When you pull the fuse that is associated with the circuit that is causing the draw, you will see the ammeter drop.

[JonA]

Concerning #1 ,I have had good luck temporarily overfilling the coolant tank while purging. this ensures the entire system will fill with liquid and after purging there should be no air pockets..When done pump the coolant tank down to it's proper level.

Most multimeters, even cheap ones, will read current draw, amps, in the range that you are probably experiencing. Disconnect the negative cable and connect your meter in series at the negative post and cable.

Jon

[ernie9944]

Originally Posted by Westy

Well, let's see. I posted this a little prematurely as I start tomorrow or the next day trying to fix this thing. No lights are on when the car is off. No removable face plate on the radio. I bled correctly as you stated (or so I thought!). Fans don't run when I turn off the motor. I will check this again.

The drain is severe. I thought the alternator wasn't charging, but that doesn't explain why the battery drains while sitting in the garage. Such a quandary. With the folks on this forum I KNOW we'll figure it out. I just wish I had more knowledge regarding this car!

Could be a bad fan relay,the fan will come one at any time without the ignition being on.Happen to me with my ex 968 I try to figure out for weeks what was draining the battery,the one day I walk into the garage & lol the fan was running.This will drain even a new battery in no time.

[Westy]

I'm gonna start with some minor testing today. Where are the jck points for a floor jack so I can raise the front a little?

I'm gonna check the fans, also. The thing is, this car will suck the battery dry in a hours drive, even tho I'm getting 13.5 volts from the alt. I'll check back in late this afternoon. Off I go to the barn!

[Westy]

OK, the trickle charge issue has bee fixed. Don't ask...nuff said.

I started the car and let it run for 20-30 minutes. Ambient air temp about 60. The battery showed 13.64 to 13.72 constantly. No drain. The fans never kicked in. The engine temp was slightly above the normal operating temp line on the gauge. Both fuses are good. The relay is G-10, part #944.615.104.03 . I don't know how to test it or what it costs.

I know there is a thermostat like device that reads the coolant temp and activates the fans, but I see nothing in the radiator. It's tight in there, but couldn't see it. Below the bleed screw I see module that looks like what I'm familiar with. So, is it in the block? And how do I test it? In my previous experiences, these like to fail.

Also noticed the DME relay is warm while the car is running. Normal? I don't even know what the DME is or what it does. I've read posts where a lot of you say you carry an extra. Is that the DME, or the DME relay. How much and where do I pick one up? I'm gonna figure all this out, just need to get more familiar with the car. Still need to know about the jacking points. I saw a really oily and dirty line down in the right front of the engine compartment. Can't say if it's a leak, or if it's oil spilled from oil changes, and road grime has clinged to it.

Thanx in advance...Brian

[flash968]

the fan temp switch is located immediately below the upper coolant hose.

the DME relay turns on the fuel pump, and the ECU.

[Jfrahm]

I chased a random draw on one of my 968s for months and eventually found a intermittent door contact switch. Replaced for a few bucks, W0133-1632877

[Westy]

Bump Bumparoni! Come on guys. Someone here must be able to at least tell me where the jack points are on my car when using a floor jack. Also, I really need help with my fans. How do I test the fans? How do I test the radiator sensor? Do I unplug the sensor and just jump the plug with a fused jumper? I can fiddle around, but am concerned I might blow or burn up something.

The poor car just sits in the barn...neglected....crying!!!

[v2rocket_aka944]

clarks-garage.com has all the answers you need.

does your jack reach the engine crossmember?

[Westy]

I can probably get it under there if I drive up on my plastic blocks. Would I jack up the rear under the center of the diff or is it not strong enuff to support the weight of the vehicle?

[Westy]

Just went to Clarks Garage. It gives me all the testing procedures for my cooling system. Actually quite a few of them. Thanx V2.

[v2rocket_aka944]

Do not jack your 968 by the diff.
The 968 transmission mount is just a chunk of rubber held loosely in a metal cage...cannot support the weight of the car.

You can safely lift the rear of the car by putting the jack under the rear suspension mount points in front of each rear wheel.

[Westy]

And there ya go. I would have screwed this up big time. Thanx!

[DannoXYZ]

The "rear diff" is actually the entire transmissions. Its mount is to hang just the weight if the transmission from the crossmember; not to support the weight of the car from below.

Here's an article on jacking up cars:
Secure Jacking - Articles

The white arrows shows where there are holes to insert the pins of the jack-adapter:

[Westy]

OK, thanx to Clarks Garage it's my Thermofan switch. I assumed it was, but there was always the possibility it was the relay. Got a new one on order. Unfortunately I'll have to drain a lot of coolant, so bleeding the system will start all over again. Are these switches tapered? Or do they require thread goop or Teflon tape?

[v2rocket_aka944]

the switch has a paper "gasket" to seal it.