Fog lights, window motor testing

[Vee1]

Hey all, first post here hoping you guys may be able to help with few minor problems. I have an 87 944.
Problem 1: The fog lights do not work. I believe its the switch because I took it out and examined it and it is in pretty bad shape. Is there a way to test this without having to get a new switch?
Problem 2: Same kind of problem with the passenger side window. It does not go up or down. The motor makes no sound at all. I should also say that neither the drivers side passenger window switch or the passenger side switch has any effect. Is there anyway to test the motor to see if thats the problem?
Thanks for the help. Fairly new to the 944 game so be gentle.

[overkill]

Hmm, so both windows dont work and neither does the fogs lights? Maybe it's a fuse. I am not but but maybe the fog lights and window motors are tied into the same fuse and it's blown? Ther are two wires connected to the fog light switch? Turn the car on and the head lights and then make a connection between the 2 wires see what is does. I mean it a basic toggle switch so its either on or off, right?

[Vee1]

Overkill,
Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I wasn't as clear as I thought I was. The drivers side window works fine but it's just the passenger side that doesnt go up or down using either the switch on the drivers side or the one on the passenger side. The switch on the passenger side was screwed up but I took it apart and it appears to be working correctly and the connections within the switch also appear to be good. I checked all the fuses and none are blown.
I'll try the thing with the fog lights though. I've got a couple days off work to hopefully figure it out. Thanks.

[SoCal Driver]

You have to check that both drivers side and the passengers side window switch are getting voltage. You can remove the whole mounting assembly and check on the back connections with either a test light or a volt meter with the key on.

The passenger side switch gets its voltage from the drivers side so check it first. If you have voltage on the switch, hold it down in either direction (preferably the direction the window needs to move) and check the other pins for voltage that did not have voltage during the primary test.

If you see voltage being redirected (switched) then you have to pull the door panel off and check for voltage at the motor. If you get voltage at both sides of the motor while pressing both switches both directions then it's the motor.

On the earlier models it's usually the switch. On the later model the switches are a better design. Still it's usually the switch then the motor.

[Vee1]

Thanks SoCal. I've finally sort of figured out the problem. Now the solution is what I'm having a tough time with. Heres what I found. First, I took off both door panels. Then I connected the power wires for the drivers side window motor to the passenger side motor. I breathed a sigh of relief when I pushed the passenger window switch on the driver side and the passenger side motor jumped to life and worked. So I know the motor is good and the switches are good. I also know there is no power getting to the passenger side motor. Ive spent a good part of the afternoon trying to figure out where the problem is but no luck. Anybody have any suggestions?

Brad

87 944

[Roger Hall]

If I read So Cals post correctly you need to test the switches for the passenger side. By conecting it to the drivers side you bypassed the two passenger side switches.

[SoCal Driver]

The switches are all the same. The wiring changes at each location.

Basically the switch reverses the motor to run the window down or up.

Now to complicate things the passenger window switch also has to pass through the current in the right polarity from the up stream, drivers side, switch.

As you have shown the window motor to be working it's time to really check the switches. Take the drivers window switch and swap it with the drivers side passenger window switch and see if it works. If it works for the passenger window and the drivers window stops working you know it's that switch. If it doesn't then it's the passenger side switch.

These switches can be cleaned by carefully popping off the rocker and removing the contact rockers in side. Watch out for the two pressure ball bearings in the rocker! These tend to pop out.

I still strongly suggest you use a test light (looks like a clear handle ice pick with a long wire and alligator clip on the end) and test for down wire voltage as I first suggested. This is show where the electrons are falling off.

[Vee1]

Thanks guys for the responses. I'll try SoCals suggestion today.

[Vee1]

Ok. Did the switch thing and all the switches work fine with the drivers side. So then I used the test light to see if there were any open circuits. I found the red/white and red/black wire to be open. So the problem has to be with these wires. I've spent more time upside down underneath the drivers side dash than I care to admit. I'm also running out of new swear words. It has to be a connection problem, right? Should I just say screw it and take it to a shop?

Brad

[Roger Hall]

If you have determined which wires are not conected you should be able to trace them. Its a PITA but I wouldn't pay someone $75 an hour to do it.