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Location: Littleton, CO
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Question How to remove a rounded out bolt?

After years of successfully avoiding the need to remove a rounded out bolt, the time has come. So before attempting to drill it out, I thought I would risk ridicule and humiliation by asking a few simple questions.

First, the scenario. I am replacing the hardware on the real hatch of my 84 944 (the pins, screws, rubber seats etc.) as the former parts were no longer adjustable due to corrosion etc. Anyway, the rubber seats that attach to the rear hatch are held in place by two 'euro' head screws - the head takes a screw driver (or ratchet head) that has the outline like axle splines - like a cheesehead bolt only with more teeth or splines in the center. I rounded one of those out and now cannot remove it using normal means.

So, to remove it (I already have the replacement), do I simply take a drill with a drill bit of approximately the same size as the rounded out portion of the screw head, put her in reverse and drill away? Do I need a special kind of drill bit?

Comments much appreciated!

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84 944 5spd
Maint. & Fixes made thanks to the help received on this board:
Rear Hatch Pins, Oil Change, Dash Cover Installation, New Rear Seat, New O2 Sensor, New Ignition Switch, New Fuel Pump Relay, Rear Light Assembly Reseal, Instrument Panel Short Circuit, New Speedo Cable, New Timing belts and Starter.
Old 01-12-2003, 01:20 PM
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try pb blaster, vise grips, cursing, high quality easy out . in that order. post a picture. torx bit?

start with small bits. centered. work up to a bit the diameter of your new screw shank.

lets see the car. a black on black 944/51 will be my next toy
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Old 01-12-2003, 01:44 PM
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I would get the Sears Craftsman removing bits. These kind of look like short reverse drill bits. The concept is the flutes will dig into the screw head and catch on fresh metal and thus remove the screw. Think they are in packages of three or four.

These screws that hold the hatch pins on are right out in the road crud and do seize up. Get replacements from the dealer and the proper tool to put them back in. Use a teflon plumbers paste on the threads.
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Old 01-12-2003, 01:47 PM
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Why spec a Torx head?

Thanks for the responses. Yep, just checked the packaging on my set of screwdrivers ... it is a 'Torx' head screw. My only question is , why would a designer spec a 'Torx' head when so many other (seemingly) more standard heads exist? Do they have a particular advantage over the typical allen head? (I used to have a Peueot 505 SW8 Turbo that used em as well - so is this a Euro thing?)

I will give Sears a try for the drill bits. Regarding the Teflon tape, I hadn't thought of that but will give it a try as well.

Many thanks.
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84 944 5spd
Maint. & Fixes made thanks to the help received on this board:
Rear Hatch Pins, Oil Change, Dash Cover Installation, New Rear Seat, New O2 Sensor, New Ignition Switch, New Fuel Pump Relay, Rear Light Assembly Reseal, Instrument Panel Short Circuit, New Speedo Cable, New Timing belts and Starter.
Old 01-12-2003, 03:00 PM
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I would take the teflon paste over the tape as you will not be dealing with a tapered pipe thread.

The bits I'm referring to are not drill bits. They are screw extractors.

Craftsman calls them "Screw-Out". There is also a heavy duty set called "Drill-Out".

I've used a dremel tool with the carbide cut off wheel to make slots in the head of counter sunk screws then used a flat screw drive and vice grips to remove the screw.
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Old 01-12-2003, 03:43 PM
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I have trried the screw extractors with no luck. Save the time and money just drill it out.
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Old 01-12-2003, 04:33 PM
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The screws are not Torx. The fastener is the XZN type, using a Torx will just strip the heads out. Snap-on sells the correct socket for this job.

You will need four new screws, the mushroom pin, rubber threaded insulator and the lock nut to repair this.
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Old 01-12-2003, 06:49 PM
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I agree with So Cal, I have the set of extractors. They come in sets of 3 (sm, Med, LG, oddly enough), and they work great. turn them as slowlly as possible. don't use a drill, actually, use a 1/4" socket in your 1/4" drive ratchet, is the best way I've found to use em. sloooow.

Torx is a fav of the Ford Motor Co, and I imagine that they came up with torx when there were so many other wonderful styles of screw heads available is exactly that. Everyone had every other type of fastener. How do you get people to go to an authorized dealership and buy overpriced fuel filter and have an underworked automotive technician install it? Put some fasteners that nobody else has a driver for, something easy to strip.

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Old 01-12-2003, 11:35 PM
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Snap-On makes a good broken bolt extractor. Expensive but good.
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Old 01-13-2003, 02:49 AM
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Can't find the XZN on Snap-on site

"The screws are not Torx. The fastener is the XZN type, using a Torx will just strip the heads out. Snap-on sells the correct socket for this job. "

Hi Britwrench,

I searched the Snap-on site for the XZN type of tool you mention but could not find it - do you have a part# I can use to get the right Snap-on tool?

"You will need four new screws, the mushroom pin, rubber threaded insulator and the lock nut to repair this."

Yep, got all the goodies. Just trying to complete the job.

Kind Regards,

DL
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84 944 5spd
Maint. & Fixes made thanks to the help received on this board:
Rear Hatch Pins, Oil Change, Dash Cover Installation, New Rear Seat, New O2 Sensor, New Ignition Switch, New Fuel Pump Relay, Rear Light Assembly Reseal, Instrument Panel Short Circuit, New Speedo Cable, New Timing belts and Starter.
Old 01-13-2003, 07:14 AM
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Hey Dugcat11, when you find the tool, can I borrow it? I have a new rear hatch pin assy that I want to install.

I would be happy to drive over to Littleton, maybe bearing beer or other gifts.
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Old 01-13-2003, 07:37 AM
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Call the snap on guy and tell him you need a 6mm Triple square driver.

forget the part number, but it is a stocked (meaning on the truck) item.

they are something like $22 each plus tax.

If you can get the bolt out with the extractor that would be the best way - if you are replacing the entire thing, damn the torpedos and cut it off.

AFJuvat
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Old 01-13-2003, 07:53 AM
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Victory!

Victory achieved! OK, I know many of you have drilled out bushel baskets of screws before but this was my first foray into the impossible. I drilled the heck out of those two bolts and after snapping off two of my brand new Craftsmen screw extractors (ouch) the screws gave in. It is amazing the way they back out of there once the extractor has a grip on 'em.
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84 944 5spd
Maint. & Fixes made thanks to the help received on this board:
Rear Hatch Pins, Oil Change, Dash Cover Installation, New Rear Seat, New O2 Sensor, New Ignition Switch, New Fuel Pump Relay, Rear Light Assembly Reseal, Instrument Panel Short Circuit, New Speedo Cable, New Timing belts and Starter.
Old 01-13-2003, 08:10 PM
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By the way Scott R,

Once I get the 6mm triple square tool, you are welcome to come on over to use it. Will post in this thread once I find it and how much it costs.
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84 944 5spd
Maint. & Fixes made thanks to the help received on this board:
Rear Hatch Pins, Oil Change, Dash Cover Installation, New Rear Seat, New O2 Sensor, New Ignition Switch, New Fuel Pump Relay, Rear Light Assembly Reseal, Instrument Panel Short Circuit, New Speedo Cable, New Timing belts and Starter.
Old 01-13-2003, 08:13 PM
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my web site Torque values maintainance and repairs lots of my rebuild pics weights and measurements
'84 944 auto/ps/ac/cc
'86 951
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Old 01-15-2003, 02:24 AM
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Epilogue

Well, Mr. Juvat was right - I ordered the triple square 6mm from Snap-on on-line. It cost me about $25 (delivered). It arrived today and it fits oh-so-perfectly! I figure to be in the 944 world for a good long while so the investment is worth it to me.

Gee, now I can actually adjust my rear pins!

I also ended up exchanging my broken Craftsman screw-extractors for new ones. The guy at Sears wasn't too happy but they did the exchange anyway.

Lastly, I attempted to find some teflon paste but couldn't find it - only the tape stuff.

Can I settle for some simple anti-sieze or silicon grease instead?

Regards,
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84 944 5spd
Maint. & Fixes made thanks to the help received on this board:
Rear Hatch Pins, Oil Change, Dash Cover Installation, New Rear Seat, New O2 Sensor, New Ignition Switch, New Fuel Pump Relay, Rear Light Assembly Reseal, Instrument Panel Short Circuit, New Speedo Cable, New Timing belts and Starter.
Old 01-21-2003, 08:43 PM
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DL, you can find the teflon paste at a local auto parts store,or hardware store,the tape will not work as well,tape is mainly used for pipe threads and such,probally won't stay on the screw when you try to put it in.
Good Luck
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Old 01-22-2003, 01:32 AM
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Question thread sealant

Ok,

I've searched for teflon paste at HomeDepot, Ace Hardware, NAPA Auto and AutoZone. No teflon paste.

What I have found is a teflon 'enriched' thread sealant.

Is this what was meant by "teflon paste"?

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84 944 5spd
Maint. & Fixes made thanks to the help received on this board:
Rear Hatch Pins, Oil Change, Dash Cover Installation, New Rear Seat, New O2 Sensor, New Ignition Switch, New Fuel Pump Relay, Rear Light Assembly Reseal, Instrument Panel Short Circuit, New Speedo Cable, New Timing belts and Starter.
Old 01-25-2003, 11:41 AM
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