79 removing tie rod from rack

[Rupesy]

I have determined I need a 22mm and 32 mm wrench to remove the tie rod from the rack. The problem is finding a narrow 32mm wrench since the flats are kind of narrow and there is the stop washer on the other side. Any advice on where to buy the right wrench? or send me to a link with some photos/instructions? thanks...

[Pete R]

I went to the local dollar store and bought the cheapest wrenches I could find and then ground them down

[Rupesy]

I'm on the same page as you. I did buy a big wrench and was thinking to do that, I just wanted to make sure that was the easiest path before I started to grind it. Also, I bought a 1-1/4" since it converts pretty close hoping that will do the trick. Maybe I'll check a few more stores before I go cutting into this one.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Rupesy

I have determined I need a 22mm and 32 mm wrench to remove the tie rod from the rack. The problem is finding a narrow 32mm wrench since the flats are kind of narrow and there is the stop washer on the other side. Any advice on where to buy the right wrench? or send me to a link with some photos/instructions? thanks...

I took my car into the shop for an alignment last year. They found a bent tie rod so I had to order one and bring it back to them. They did the 4 wheel alignment and installed the new tie rod for $135. Since you may need the alignment anyway, let them do it.

[Landseer]

I think you can slide the bump stop out of the way. Am using regular wrenches.

Also, you don't want to put pressure on the innards of the rack.

Best practice: Clamp the rack-side wrench in a vice. Set the rack flats into the wrench ( might have to put a box under rack to make it level ). Then tap tierod-side wrench with a hammer to loosten.

This counterholds the rack side without possibility of slipping and damaging innards with a free-hand counterhold.

[Rupesy]

Well I found a thin wrench set, but maybe too thin. Already bent it, so I might just go get a regular size and grind it back a little. I moved the bump stop as far as it would go an the regular wrench would not fit. Anybody remove these with the rack in the car? I really don't want to remove the rack.

[Landseer]

No, I've done 6 of them now and always removed them.

[Landseer]

The other reason to remove it is to inspect the aluminum U-joint.
They can look good with little play, but have the bearings jamming and not have full motion.
I've replaced three now.
One had play and I'd overlooked it.

The other two had each one joint nearly frozen and had play in certain orientations only. You'd never have known it.

[Mrmerlin]

As Chis said there is a steering stop on the rack .

YOU do NOT have to grind down any wrenches,
the steering stop will slide inwards to the rack body then the wrenches will fit perfectly,
the wider the wrench the better the holding force

[Rupesy]

Update, kept looking and found another 1-1/4" that wasn't as wide as the last one I purchased and fit nice and snug. The length of the wrench came in handy. I was able to get it off.

Can anyone tell me if there is supposed to be some kind of lubrication or grease on the shaft or in the boot before I put the new boot on???

Thanks for all the suggestions so far. I keep these threads because sometimes I like to go back and review the suggestions in case I want to go back and do other work.

[Rupesy]

Wow....outer ends are still really tight....inside flopping all over the place.....

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Rupesy

Wow....outer ends are still really tight....inside flopping all over the place.....

That doesn't sound good

[Mrmerlin]

well there is an inner and out tie rod joint the new part has both of them .

before you could order either the inner or outer.
I guess they figured if one was bad the other cant be far behind,
Since your finding play order a new set for both sides they run about 75.00 a side for both the in/ out tierods,
add new rack boots about 25.00 each

[Rupesy]

Well, I got both sides off and installed the new complete tie rods, new bump stops and boots. I still ended up grinding the 32mm wrench. Getting the boots on was no easy task. But happy to have that done. Now on to the rear axle boots.....

[MPDano]

Sheesh, no pics of your hard work?

[Rupesy]

original boot



boot removed



tie rod coming off



makeshift fixture to match lengths for new tie rod



new tie rod, boot, and bump stop



installed

[Landseer]

Nice work and great pictures to match.

I gotta start separating ball joints like you did.

[MPDano]

Excellent pics and gives me hopes when I have to tackle the same job. Thanks for posting up these pics.

How much the did the Rod, Boot and Stop cost you?

[Rupesy]

I've been using that puller from Autozone to separate the joints on my BMW and it works great. It's real easy to use on the BMW, but I had to cut away the rubber boot on the tie rod end on the Porsche to get this one to work. I think I even had to get my grinder out and knock off a little of the edge of the tie rod end on one side so the hook end could get under the post. Still better than renting and returning all the time. Anyway, only downside to the Porsche is that I had to take off the caliper to use it.

Cost of bump stop was about $16 each, the boots were about $10 each and the tie rod assembly was around $57 each. I used both Pelican and BMA to buy the parts. I rarely buy everything from one place. I'm partial to BMA since I have been using them so many years, however, I have had an A++ experience with Pelican so far.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Rupesy

I've been using that puller from Autozone to separate the joints on my BMW and it works great. It's real easy to use on the BMW, but I had to cut away the rubber boot on the tie rod end on the Porsche to get this one to work. I think I even had to get my grinder out and knock off a little of the edge of the tie rod end on one side so the hook end could get under the post. Still better than renting and returning all the time. Anyway, only downside to the Porsche is that I had to take off the caliper to use it.

Cost of bump stop was about $16 each, the boots were about $10 each and the tie rod assembly was around $57 each. I used both Pelican and BMA to buy the parts. I rarely buy everything from one place. I'm partial to BMA since I have been using them so many years, however, I have had an A++ experience with Pelican so far.

Thanks for that!