whats the best oil filter and oil for a 1980 928?

[928SROCK]

whats the best oil filter and oil for a 1980 928? is synthetic or regular oil better for a 67k mile car? and does it make a difference if the front end is raised up or does the whole car need to be level when changing the oil? thanks

[Danglerb]

Use a SJ rated oil, I use non synthetic Shell Rotella about $10/gallon at walmart, I forget the W , maybe 15w40, its whatever they have lots of on the shelf.

Mann factory filter is what most use.

Raised up in front isn't a problem.

[MPDano]

Just get the OEM used by Porsche. I am not sure of the brand. It's about $7



Part # 928 107 201 05

You will get all kinds about oil weights. My next change out will be 10w30 dino. You can buy the $9 per quart Synthetic stuff, which will let you change out every 10K. I'm a cheapskate, so I'll stick to $2 a quart IMHO

[MPDano]

Oh yeah, I forgot to add. If you can get under a 928 front end without raising it, than you must be shaped like Gumby. These cars are pretty low up front.

[bedinator]

...and remember, there's 8 quarts of oil draining out of the 928, so have a big drain pan!

[devilinblack]

Originally Posted by bedinator

...and remember, there's 8 quarts of oil draining out of the 928, so have a big drain pan!

And it's coming out of a big freakin' hole, so be quick!

As for oil I was running Mobil 1 15W-50, but with the more frequent changes because of track days I've switched to Valvoline VR-1 20W-50. The higher viscosity numbers seem to help maintain oil pressure when hot.

Oil is a very hotly debated subject and treated like a religion by some folks. Good dino oil is fine if you change it regularly. If you don't drive much and only want to change once a year or so then Mobil 1 would be my recommendation.

[Danglerb]

Originally Posted by devilinblack

And it's coming out of a big freakin' hole, so be quick!

As for oil I was running Mobil 1 15W-50, but with the more frequent changes because of track days I've switched to Valvoline VR-1 20W-50. The higher viscosity numbers seem to help maintain oil pressure when hot.

Or looking at it another way, the higher viscosity reduces the flow through the bearings so the pressure relief valve is constantly in bypass sending oil back to the pan instead of through the motor.

I'm not sure thats a good thing.

[devilinblack]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Or looking at it another way, the higher viscosity reduces the flow through the bearings so the pressure relief valve is constantly in bypass sending oil back to the pan instead of through the motor.

I'm not sure thats a good thing.

Certainly not a good thing. Most people seem to indicate more problems maintaining oil pressure with the lower viscosity oils though. I've yet to try anything else so I can't really say. Originally I figured with the limited driving I do I'd stick with the Mobil 1 and change yearly. The track days have kind of put an end to that though. I could still run longer with synthetic but changing it out every couple of track days and opening up the filter seems like a good way to keep an eye on things.

[EIPtuningR32]

i use royal purple 15W-40 and for tranny i use royal purple 75W-90. on a hot day and running the car spiritedly around town, i get around 2.75-3.25 .bar of oil pressure

[devilinblack]

Originally Posted by EIPtuningR32

i use royal purple 15W-40 and for tranny i use royal purple 75W-90. on a hot day and running the car spiritedly around town, i get around 2.75-3.25 .bar of oil pressure

If that's at idle, that's fine. The WSM specs 5 bar + at 4K RPM and above though. My car shows 5 bar when hot above 1500 RPM and ~3 bar at idle (850 RPM).

[MPDano]

Yeah, mine's the same as Stephens. I am currently using Mikes suggestion of Rotella T from Wal Mart

[EIPtuningR32]

Originally Posted by devilinblack

If that's at idle, that's fine. The WSM specs 5 bar + at 4K RPM and above though. My car shows 5 bar when hot above 1500 RPM and ~3 bar at idle (850 RPM).

yeah, at idle. i forgot to mention that...

[DanielDudley]

A lot of guys use Rotella. For a 1980 10/40 was factory fill. Those engines are so understressed that I don't think it is a big problem as long as you have good oil pressure.

32 valve engines I think are a different matter, especially the GT and hotted up motors. VR1 20/50 would be the cheapest oil I would run in one of those in the summer. Keeps the cams from pitting if nothing else.

[928SROCK]

i used a floor jack to lift the drivers side front of the car at the correct spot and when i let it down the car stayed up about 4" from the top of the tire to the inner fender is this normal? I went from a low rider sports car to a 4x4 looking sports car. How long would this last? Do i just need to drive it will they go back to normal?

[yetibone]

Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 10w30 because I always liked the old Kendall GT1, and it does not exceed API SJ rating because of ZDDP content.

...and I use a Mann, or Mahle filter, or Wix if I get one from the FLAPS.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by 928SROCK

i used a floor jack to lift the drivers side front of the car at the correct spot and when i let it down the car stayed up about 4" from the top of the tire to the inner fender is this normal? I went from a low rider sports car to a 4x4 looking sports car. How long would this last? Do i just need to drive it will they go back to normal?

Yup, that's what it does. Drive it and it will settle back down. This is the big reason why you can't take this car to any old Alignment Shop.

[Danglerb]

Originally Posted by devilinblack

Certainly not a good thing. Most people seem to indicate more problems maintaining oil pressure with the lower viscosity oils though.

Correct, many reported a "problem" with low oil pressure, especially at hot idle. What I am disagreeing with is their assessment that the indicated pressures were low enough to be a problem.

I'm not any expert on oil, but given the same basic properties, film and shear strength etc., the lowest viscosity oil that meets your pressure requirements is best.

[Rupesy]

When changing the filter, do you need to remove the alternator? It looks pretty tight up there and don't know if the oil will run out all over hte place after removing the filter.

[bedinator]

No, you don't have to remove the alternator to change the filter. The correct filter is long enough that you can get to it. If I had to remove the alternator to change the oil filter by design, I'd sell my car.

I need an alignment, what was that comment about can't take it to any ol' alignment shop..?

[devilinblack]

Just make sure the alignment shop knows they can not, under any circumstances jack the car up at all. If they have to roll the wheels to get the sensors to do their thing, they have to move it back and forth on its wheels. If you happen to be in the SoCal area, check out the socal928.com board for a recommendation.

As for the filter area being "tight" I feel like this car has tons of room to work with under there compared to my Mark VIII. What a nightmare that was.