Almost done!!! NEED HELP!
 

Ok guys! I have the water pump on, AND the timing belt on the old engine. (I just need to see what's going on with the old engine, and I KNOW you guys are too!!!)

BUT!!!!!!!!!!!

I [I]can't [I] turn the engine over by turning the crank with a socket wrench, even with ALL 8 spark plugs out! This can't be good!!!

Dangler??? What do you think? I think the "mechanic" that messed with my cam gears really screwed things up.
Does anybody know how to "start over"??? I mean, is there a way to "reset" and put everything at "0" so to say????

please let me know, I'm going to be back on it first thing in the morning. Oh, the spark plug galleys were flooded with oil by the way.

Here are pictures of where everything is lined up at.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241755864.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241755885.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241755901.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1241755924.jpg

Doee everything line up when you are at O/T (TDC)?

I cant turn the crank :(

Did you remove the flywheel locking tool?

Everything seems to be lined up perfectly right now, see pic how the mark on the backing plate lines up with the divots on the gear.

haha... yeah, Dano has it, but that was what I was thinking too, I had to double check even though I knew I gave it back!

What I see is that they are both about 3 teeth too forwards but the crank is at the 45 degree mark. From this point it's difficlut to tell if the marks will lline up when the crank is at TDC.

This is pretty much where they were when I pulled the belt, but one of the gears might be one tooth left or right of the other.

Bear in mind I am NOT experienced with 32v motors except to take them apart. ;)

Is the car in park?

When you try to turn the motor (usually always clockwise), what seems to be binding?
Use a finger to feel the tension on various segments of the belt and that should tell you what doesn't want to move.

Try wiggling the different parts, see if something is frozen. If nothing wants to move, I'm thinking the belt needs to come off and then recheck movement of each part. (as long as the crank stays "close" to 45 degrees a little movement should be harmless).

Be careful no junk gets down the spark plug holes.

I count 48 teeth on the camshaft sprocket. So 45 degrees of crank rotation would be 22.5 degrees for the cam. 360 divided by 22.5 is 16. 48 divided by 16 is 3. So the cam should be 3 teeth off. It appears to be set correctly.

I went back to the manual and looked it up. With the crankshaft at the 45 degree mark before Top Dead Center. "Camshafts may be turned without damaging the valves after aligning the 45 deg. mark."

You were able to turn the crank BEFORE you put the Timing Belt on, correct?

I do see a post saying your marks are on now. Does it turn now? #1 Piston at top?

Also, is 4|5 the Correct TDC?

Is the car in neutral or are the rear wheels up? If not, you're trying to move the entire car.

This could be off. On the 32V cars you first set crank at T/D and align back notches to notch in back plate. Then turn crank to 45 degs ( this is the only crank position where the cams can be turned WITHOUT interference) then YOU mark the cam gears. Mine were already marked when the PO did the first job....Once aligned turn crank 2 complete rotations to make sure they still align. If the motor will not rotate try removing the plugs.

Is 4|5 the Correct TDC? Ok, found my answer somewhere else. Here are pics of what it should look like.

https://www.928gt.com/images/wallytips/tbeltfig5.jpg

https://www.928gt.com/images/wallytips/tbeltfig6.jpg

Since the car is automatic, I should be able to turn it in any gear position correct? I'm not even sure where the shifter is to tell you the truth. Should be park, but it may not have been put back completely. I will check when I go out there.

plugs are removed as of last night.

Since the gears looked like they weren't marked before the belt was taken off, can the crank be set at 45 deg, turn the cams until the marks line up, turn crank back to TDC, then put the belt on?

Someone did the math previously on how many teeth the cam gears should be off the mark at 45 degrees, but can someone confirm he's off (think it was 3 teeth) in the right direction?

See figure 5 in my post above yours.

You know, after looking at Dano's picture has me thinking... One of the gears was three teeth past and the other was four. I turned the one gear so it was three teeth past to match up with the other one. Now I'm wondering if I should have turned them both to four since that is how they are in Dano's picture...

Pictures are from 928gt.com, I am betting these are the absolute correct way they should look like.

WAIT! How are you trying to turn the crank over? :confused:

Didn't the Craig's List Bandit Mechanic make off with your 27mm socket?!?!?!? :eek:

I always loan my "generic" brand tools to strangers!

hahaha... You didn't think I was using the "sideways visegrip" method he was employing do you!

Guess what. BY PURE CHANCE I happened to be going through some old pics on my cell phone, and found a few pictures I took of the cam gear locations WAY back when I removed the belt. Well, the gears are EXACTLY where they are supposed to be...

Any other ideas why the engine wont turn? I'm going outside to find out what position the shift lever is in.

Don't apply too much force, something has to be binding. Try and locate the segment of the belt that has increased tension on one side and not the other as you try to turn the motor. If you can't find it that way, I think the belt needs to come off and each part checked for free movement (just not much away from the 45 on the crank).

Ignore what I said about PARK, too late at night for me to think. PARK locks the rear wheels, but torque converter would allow free motion of the motor.

Was the CL Mechanic able to spin one or both cams by hand?

OK! I'm an idiot. The engine DOES spin! I just wasn't turning hard enough (i'm used to motorcycle engines.....)

Well, I'm going to go put everything back together and put some fresh oil and coolant in it, and give it a whirl!

Duh! ;)

Take pics of the cam gears and harmonic at TDC.

Spark Plugs OUT! Run Compression checks on all cylinders, post all readings and pics here ASAP! Don't lose momentum SmileWavy

Ok, I just bought oil, filter, plugs, and compression tool (NAPA) what are the compression readings supposed to be? 32valve.

caution
 

Just turn the engine over by hand a few times and every second time check the blasted marks are lining up. IF there is no binding and everything seems OK (crossing fingers) tap the starter and then hand crank a bit to make sure everything is Kosher. Just take compression readings. looking for discrepancies in compression at this point. BTW check the oil and coolant. (duh)

LMAO..... I'm glad it wasn't anything serious! :)

What did the compression check turn up?

Doesn't matter now, he sold the car last weekend.

BB out of the game?
 

Whaaaattt?:eek:

One of the guys up here in OC picked it up last Saturday. BB wants to focus on taking apart a nice 79 he bought.

It does matter.

I'm the guy that bought it.

I've got oil in the coolant. Wondering if he has numbers on the compression check so I can hopefully eliminate a head gasket or cracked block. I'm praying for a ruptured oil cooler....

It smells like motor oil and not tranny fluid. I closed the hood and walked away tonight. I'll dig in tomorrow...

Ok???? Your post sounded like any of the rest of us trying to help Blythe on this one. If you read all the posts back, we tried to get him to do readings with not much luck. Your best bet is Buy, Borrow or Steal a Compression Tester and test them yourself. Probably also best to start your own thread and post readings and issue stated in your post.

I also saw the S4 when he first bought it, and if it weren't for hard economic times, your S4 would have been in my driveway ;) Pressure test the Radiator Coolers and Radiator and report back.

I'll have a compression tester tonight or tomorrow. When I get the results, I will post them.

I'll start a new thread. I got some great advice about testing the radiator, that I will post there.

Thanks!