need some major help!!!!

[paintballer317]

ok, i have an 83 automatic and i discovered today that the throttle body, directly underneath the intake manifold, was no longer attached to the engin block. the rubber mounts have broke and its just kinda sitting there in place. i was wondering if anyone can help me with the process of replacing them , and where i can get new ones, thank you

[paintballer317]

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[paintballer317]

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[Danglerb]

Pelican has them, you need 3.
928-110-191-00-M260

Fuel Injection Rubber Mount, 928
Brand: OEM [More Info]

$7.50

[paintballer317]

ok, thanks alot danglerb for the help. do you know how the old ones come out? do they unscrew or just pull out or need to be drilled out or what? then do the new ones need to be screwd in or glued in or what? thanks for the info

[paintballer317]

ok, never mind, i looked at the part and i can see that they are screwd in. thanks alot, doesnt seem too hard to fix.

[Fabio421]

It's a common problem and they are easy to replace. There are two different styles used if I remember correctly. At least there were when I replaced the ones on my 1982. The good news is that they aren't that expensive. You got off luck this time.

[Normy]

OH MY GOD U are screwed!

Listen, your car is toast. It will take $8000 to make that right. I'll make you an offer:

$500...

-----------

Heh! If you want to sell it to me cheap I'll be happy to respond, but I think you should know that what I posted above is in jest~

My 928 turned a 13 second quarter mile with my throttle body, "U", and intake manifold sitting above the block with no support at all. The assembly was simply hanging from the clamps. Which are sturdy enough that they can support these components for decades. Guess what: I suspect that you...can replace the mounting points, but why do you want to?

-My "work" car is a '97 Jetta GLX with the VR6 engine, and I put a K&N filter on it a few years ago. I removed the air box, and simply fit the K&N to the MAF.

*******DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A PORSCHE 928!!!!!********

******DO not fit a K&N air filter to a Porsche 928. This will FOUL the MAF!****

The Jetta MAF is a different design and isn't affected by this sort of thing. So a K&N can go directly on the intake pipe. The K&N has only three advantages that I can see:

1. You can wash it off every 25,000 miles and re-oil it, then reinstall. That means that you spend money on K&N oil instead of buying a new paper Fram filter.

2. The K&N looks cooler. It uses black foam for its frame instead of that stupid orange foam that Fram uses.

3. My Jetta, with the VR6 engine, sounds completely harmless at idle and regular throttle. But when you get on it, the K&N emits this deep-throated intake growl that sounds like a large dog growling. If you use your imagination just a tiny amount, you start to hear a small Detroit V8 in the sound of this odd V6. The K&N SOUNDS good.

Get rid of that thing, that K&N!

N

[Normy]

OH MY GOD U are screwed!

Listen, your car is toast. It will take $8000 to make that right. I'll make you an offer:

$500...

-----------

Heh! If you want to sell it to me cheap I'll be happy to respond, but I think you should know that what I posted above is in jest~

My 928 turned a 13 second quarter mile with my throttle body, "U", and intake manifold sitting above the block with no support at all. The assembly was simply hanging from the clamps. Which are sturdy enough that they can support these components for decades. Guess what: I suspect that you...can replace the mounting points, but why do you want to?

-My "work" car is a '97 Jetta GLX with the VR6 engine, and I put a K&N filter on it a few years ago. I removed the air box, and simply fit the K&N to the MAF.

*******DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A PORSCHE 928!!!!!********

******DO not fit a K&N air filter to a Porsche 928. This will FOUL the MAF!****

The Jetta MAF is a different design and isn't affected by this sort of thing. So a K&N can go directly on the intake pipe. The K&N has only three advantages that I can see:

1. You can wash it off every 25,000 miles and re-oil it, then reinstall. That means that you spend money on K&N oil instead of buying a new paper Fram filter.

2. The K&N looks cooler. It uses black foam for its frame instead of that stupid orange foam that Fram uses.

3. My Jetta, with the VR6 engine, sounds completely harmless at idle and regular throttle. But when you get on it, the K&N emits this deep-throated intake growl that sounds like a large dog growling. If you use your imagination just a tiny amount, you start to hear a small Detroit V8 in the sound of this odd V6. The K&N SOUNDS good in this application!

Get rid of that thing, that K&N!

N

[Mrmerlin]

looks like its time for some cleanup of the top end, the rubber isolator are screwed into the block if the rubber portion isnt connected the you can cut a groove into the remaining metal and then use a screw driver or chisle to break it free.
BTW the master cylinder looks creepy

[MPDano]

I have to agree with Normy on this one. I believe mine are cracked and not really supporting anything anymore, but the whole throttle body doesn't move much since there are hoses, etc holding it down pretty snug. Although, since you got it all apart anyways and the part is cheap, why not?!?

[Danglerb]

Bolt on each end, sometimes it sticks and you need to use a chisel or punch and tap at an angle to get it started turning. I've also had some luck with pipe pliers, but I've also not been able to get any grip on the metal part other times.

If your really cheap, keep the old parts and put on new rubber bits. Also generic parts might be found for much less, but I have tried either.

[123quattro]

Mine are all sheared off as well. It still sits on them, but they do very little. I reassembled my top end this way when I put the new heads on. I wouldn't worry about it.

[surfdog4]

I think that's one of those WYAIT (while you are in there) jobs. If your valley needs to be cleaned, the vacuum lines are shot, or something else that requires you to disassemble the intake system, then replacing the rubber mounts is a snap..but doesn't seem worth the effort for just that

[paintballer317]

thanks alot guys. ive already ordered the new mounts, i took this all apart because im gave the intake manifold and the 8 pipes to a friend, his family owns a powdercoating business. hes gonna paint the manifold a blue color and the pipes chrome. my new air intake tubes are those mercedies ones with the blue strip and im also getting the blue silicone vacuum lines to put in. im doing all of this in one go while its all taken apart.

you said the master cylinder loks creepy, should i replace that? right now the breaks are fine, if i push hard it locks the wheels and i screech to a hault. i thought it didnt look good too but when i took a close look, its mostly just surface rust. ill probably remove it and clean it off and maybe paint it so it doesnt get rusty again.

ill post pics when its done, it should look real good. if you notice anything else that looks abused let me know, the previous owner DID NOT take good care of this car. ive had it for a few weeks and i checked the oil about 4 days ago, it was black and kinda gummy, ugh! so i ordered a filter and i plan on changing the filter and oil, running it for a while, then changing it again to make sure its good and clean.

i do also plan on cleaning the top end. i spent some time yesterday wiping it off with acetone. im kinda scared to scrub too hard because im afraid of dropping stuff down into the cylinder/valve area. i thought about bolting the old gaskets down with some platic under them to protect the engine but havnt done it yet. if you have any suggestions please let me know

i have one more question. the throttle cable as shown right above the red circle, should it be tight or a little loose? im thinking it should be tight to respond to the gas pedal faster and so it will open more, cuz i have to pin the gas all the way to the floor to get it to downshift when i get on it. but im also thinking that when the car is running, the idle might make the butterfly valve open enough to pull the cable tight. im not sure, please let me know any ideas

[Arizona_928]

clean off the surface where the gaskets are and you can put some painters tape down. I also just stuff a rag in their when i know i'm not gonna be digging in for more then acouple days.

Also if you plan to remove the Master, mind as well replace it. I've done that and acouple months later it fails. I would leave it on till failure.


Just my $.02

[paintballer317]

ok, so i stuffed some rags in the holes so i wouldnt be dropping stuff in there. i took off the throttle body to remove the mounts. i started cleaning it all up so it looks nice and will flow better. i had a couple problems with the cloth-braided hoses just snapping on me. the one that goes from the coolant reserviour to the the radiator snapped, i went to autozone and got a new hose and fixed that problem. but then the hose that connects the throttle body down by the bottom that splits and goes to both the thing hanging on the engine crossbeam and up to the intake manifold, that hose broke, i know its a vacuum line. i was wondering if the blue silicone vacuum line kit i got would include those hoses or not? anyway, heres some pics of my progress...
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i didnt what you said, i decided not to remove the master cylinder yet, it is defenitly on my to do list though, ill be replacing it with a new one.

any other suggestions or advice, please let me know. thank you all for your help

[MPDano]

I see a little ssspage from the bottom of that Master Cylinder Reservoir. I had the same problem but worse and bought the grommet, was cheap and easy to replace.

[paintballer317]

mpdano, i didnt notice that, thanks. i see it now though

[paintballer317]

do you think you can give me the part number for that plase? i couldnt find a grommet in the schematics but i found some "sealing plugs" is that what i need? 911 355 922 00 is the part number, right?