let's try it again, with video this time

[morriss]

Alright, let’s try this again now that I’ve got the new fuel accumulator on. Still won’t start; in fact it’s still acting exactly the same as it did when I noticed the old accumulator was leaking. So, it wasn’t the accumulator, although that part did need to be replaced.
It tries to start, in fact it catches for about ½ a second, maybe a full one. I added a video of me trying to start it onto YouTube. The first two tries you can here it run ever so briefly, but on the third it doesn’t even try to. The frustration meter is at about a 7 right now.

YouTube - 928 no start.avi

Here’s a list of things I did before the no start issue began:

1) intermediate piece for start valve

2) I replaced the front and rear cam seals. In putting the front seals on, I had to pull the distributor out of the block. Before I did this, I put marks on it and the cap so everything would line back up to be the same as when I took it and the cap off. When done with the front seals I made sure the engine was at O/T (0°) and the cam gears were line up correctly when re-installing the timing belt. I checked it again today and everything still lines up.

3) I replaced all of the following wiring connectors with new pigtailed ones from Napa: start valve (which connects to the front of the spider), aux. air valve, and WUR. I think the original colors of the connectors were black, blue, and brown.
I thought about replacing the cold start valve elec. connector too, but couldn’t find a suitable replacement. I just cleaned the contacts on the cold start valve and then plugged the connector back on.
I soldered all joints and put shrink wrap over them.

4) I replaced all the rubber fuel lines on the car with replacements from Roger.

5) I put a new alternator on and the two elec. connections are tight.

6) I opened up the WUR to check the screen (didn’t see one). I made sure the little spring went back in the way it came out.

7) New Green wire.

8) New throttle body O-ring (the big one).

9) New rubber sleeves connecting spider legs to air dist.

10) All vacuum hoses under the hood were replaced.

[Linderpat]

Try cleaning the ground points, especially the large ground wire from the frame to the bottom passenger side of the engine block, and the ground strap in the back, plus the battery posts. Often times it's as simple as that, especially if you were cleaning things with, e.g., Simple Green - which is very corrosive to conducting materials if not thoroughly rinsed off.

[morriss]

Originally Posted by Linderpat

Try cleaning the ground points, especially the large ground wire from the frame to the bottom passenger side of the engine block, and the ground strap in the back, plus the battery posts. Often times it's as simple as that, especially if you were cleaning things with, e.g., Simple Green - which is very corrosive to conducting materials if not thoroughly rinsed off.

All grounds were cleaned with a Dremmel brush tip last summer.