Trans fluid Change

[harborman]

I did the automatic trans fluid and filter change today. Drained the pan and torc converter. The car has 45K original miles and I doubt ever changed. The pan looked clean inside, no metal particles. Fluid was a bit dark compared to the new. I was able to fit my braker bar, socket and extension through the fan to turn the motor over in order to position the TC drain plug. Only one slight problem encountered, one of the small phillips screws holding the old filter would not loosen. I put my small screw driver impact tool on it and it came lose. I purchased a pump to get the fluid in the filler tank. Takes some time to fill and run the motor between filling. Then refill the tank and do again, several times, 3 or 4 at least. I smell like trans fluid! Will top off and check for any leaks tomorrow.

[JK McDonald]

Hey Harborman, It sounds like you hit all the steps - right by the numbers. Those filter screws can sometimes bump your heart beat up a point or two when they have been in place a while.

MPDano is right to mention that the motor should be running when filling up your reservoir. I have a slight torque converter seal leak on Miss Purdy - so I've gotten pretty good at the procedure.....

Ha... I usually just fill the reservoir while the tires are on the ground - Mrmerlin has the complete process....

Michael

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by harborman

Takes some time to fill and run the motor between filling. Then refill the tank and do again, several times, 3 or 4 at least. I smell like trans fluid! Will top off and check for any leaks tomorrow.

Fill and run the motor? You should be filling "while" the motor is running. Keep filling and watching it leave the reservoir, stopping only when the reservoir hits it's full mark. I think the mark was on the reservoir on my 4 speed (like yours). Then between the metal opening on my 3 speed.

[Mrmerlin]

Ahh the correct way is..
From empty,
to fill the pan engine off ,
, then run the engine for about 30 seconds then shut it off,
( this will take about 3 cycles before the fluid wont suck down)
then with the engine running cycle the shifter through all of the gears.

NOTE then go to neutral then to park,
always keep your foot on the brake,
if the tires are spinning and you shove it into park from one of the drive gears,
you can shear off the parking pawl

[MPDano]

Hmm, didn't know that and never did it that way, but if Merlin says thats the way, then it has to be right.

Here's what I have done with the last 2 changes on the OB and the single change on the "S."

Drain both including TQ. Replace the Filter. Check all the bolts and snug. Wipe down before installing the cleaned pan. Fill up reservoir to top while cold and it no longer moves down. Start up and watch and fill as it warms up. Keep filling till it no longer moves and right at fill line. Keep in mind that it never totally empties the reservoir. Get in car and move through gears (foot on brakes). Go back under can make sure it stays at fill line, add more if needed and go through gears again. If it no longer moves, then I crack open a cold one for another piece of the project done.

Wheels never move since I put my rears on ramps and put stands under for safety, as well as drag a rim under the car too for just in case ramp and stand fail.

Also, my driveway is a slope, so when I put the ramps on the down part of slope, the car is "level."

This is just what I have been doing, but will follow the guidance of Merlins post in future Transmission Servicing.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by JK McDonald

I have a slight torque converter seal leak on Miss Purdy - so I've gotten pretty good at the procedure.....


Michael

My OB too. Sometime I will need to drop my transaxle to fix my leak. Leaks right through the TQ. Topping it off is also my second nature too

[1984928]

Be sure when you replace the TQ seal you pull the front pump to replace the radial seal. If it's not leaking now it will !

[harborman]

I followed Mrmerlin's detailed instructions on doing the fluid change. He posted it some time ago and I printed it out. I think you also check the fluid level in neutral with motor running for the final level check.

I have no leaks, cleaned the pan and gasket area very well. I used carb cleaner on the inside of the pan to get everything spotless. Make sure no lint or any thing of that nature in the pan when cleaning.

One thing I learned here, if Mrmerlin has done it, then copy and save his detailed instructions and save in a folder.

[Mrmerlin]

FWIW the TC seal is the radial seal,
and the front pump has the 14 inch O ring that will leak .

There is also a front pump Gasket DO NOT try to remove it, just wipe it off with a dry rag and refit the front pump,
put some vaseline into the bronze bushing behind the TC radial seal so it wont seize on startup

[harborman]

Originally Posted by JK McDonald

Hey Harborman, It sounds like you hit all the steps - right by the numbers. Those filter screws can sometimes bump your heart beat up a point or two when they have been in place a while.

MPDano is right to mention that the motor should be running when filling up your reservoir. I have a slight torque converter seal leak on Miss Purdy - so I've gotten pretty good at the procedure.....

Ha... I usually just fill the reservoir while the tires are on the ground - Mrmerlin has the complete process....

Michael

Yes, the one small Phillips screw holding the filter was not coming off and I was worried about breaking it off. I had this nice screw driver impact tool you hit with a hammer and it turns and drives into the screw at the same time. It usually works and did this time! I have had the tool for years but have not seen them any where now.

[1984928]

Don't know where I got radial seal from. Looking in my service manual (factory book transmission vol. 3) there is no radial seal at all. Proper terms are sealing ring ( for TQ seal) and o-ring ( front pump o-ring seal). That's the one that I had leaking on my car. Once trans is out it wasn't too bad to replace. I did replace the gasket though. May not have needed to but did it anyway.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by 1984928

Don't know where I got radial seal from. Looking in my service manual (factory book transmission vol. 3) there is no radial seal at all. Proper terms are sealing ring ( for TQ seal) and o-ring ( front pump o-ring seal). That's the one that I had leaking on my car. Once trans is out it wasn't too bad to replace. I did replace the gasket though. May not have needed to but did it anyway.

How hard was the actual Transaxle drop?

[1984928]

It's been awhile but I didnt think I was all that bad. Rear suspension comes out of course. Alldata says it's about 11 hours out and in. That sounds about right.

[neil30076]

Originally Posted by MPDano

How hard was the actual Transaxle drop?

Leo, are you considering dropping the trans? To fix what problem? Just interested as that is one of the few things i have yet to attempt :-)

[Griffinroydonal]

I just swapped out the trans axle in my S4 and it was a job but not too bad. I removed the calipers and hung them from the fender wells with hooks and didn't break the lines loose. Next I removed all the bolts holding rear suspension and torque tube, Lowered rear suspension and slid to the back and to the drivers side. I lowered and removed the transmission and tube as a unit with the help of three jacks and a prayer, Slid the unit out the back and changed everything over. I reversed to install and all went as well. I am slow and it took me about 20 hours to complete. There were no surprises except the speed sensor for the rear on the transmission and MR Merlin talked me through that - Thanks Stan! . I used air tools to remove most bolts as They were beast to get loose. I would recommend the help of a friend as the weight was a little more that expected and a concrete floor really helps. I kept a confused look on my face most of the time. My local transmission shop didn't want to do the job and then quoted 3k in labor to swap it out. I figure my labor is cheap and cost me around 200 shop time. Now I know I can do such things with a little help.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by neil30076

Leo, are you considering dropping the trans? To fix what problem? Just interested as that is one of the few things i have yet to attempt :-)

See Post #6

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Griffinroydonal

I just swapped out the trans axle in my S4 and it was a job but not too bad. I removed the calipers and hung them from the fender wells with hooks and didn't break the lines loose. Next I removed all the bolts holding rear suspension and torque tube, Lowered rear suspension and slid to the back and to the drivers side. I lowered and removed the transmission and tube as a unit with the help of three jacks and a prayer, Slid the unit out the back and changed everything over. I reversed to install and all went as well. I am slow and it took me about 20 hours to complete. There were no surprises except the speed sensor for the rear on the transmission and MR Merlin talked me through that - Thanks Stan! . I used air tools to remove most bolts as They were beast to get loose. I would recommend the help of a friend as the weight was a little more that expected and a concrete floor really helps. I kept a confused look on my face most of the time. My local transmission shop didn't want to do the job and then quoted 3k in labor to swap it out. I figure my labor is cheap and cost me around 200 shop time. Now I know I can do such things with a little help.

Very excellent as I keep hearing the same thing. Once I can clear out my Garage of Crap, then I can tackle this on a nice level concrete surface. Thanks for this.

[Griffinroydonal]

I really wish you were not on the other side of the world as we could have a drop party at your place ! I could not do the drop due of age and insanity without good jacks and concrete. The old body will take a little longer as suspention will be taken apart and not dropped as a unit. I also found out the PO had cut all the brake sensors and taped them up - Happy Happy fun fun !

I saved the transaxle for parts if anyone needs them.

[Landseer]

Kudos for keeping them. Spare hard parts take up space, but are a real godsend to have when needed.

I hunted high and low for the case from an early (83-86).
My case was cracked, apparently at the same time the parking pawl broke for the previous owner.

Ended-up with another transmission. But like you, I kept the parts of the original one. Have already shipped a pan and reservoir to a guy, gratis, to get him running again.

[neil30076]

Originally Posted by MPDano

See Post #6

Oops, - let me know when you decide to do it - I woudl like to see what is involved, may inspire me to do the same on the 86 to upgrade the torque tube braings and add a p-clamp! !