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Mp, keep fixing and taking lots of pics! nice job
in regards to the odometer gear, theres no need to remove the circiut board. ive had my odo out twice, and never removed the board, but great write up. |
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ISSUE: Got a Passengers Seat Clicking Noise? Well, it really isn't the Seat but under the passenger side Radio Amplifier Cover between the seat and door. The Culprit is the O2 Counter which once it gets to a certain mileage, it starts to click and the click varies depending on how fast your car is moving. Very Annoying
FIX: Remove the Two Thumb Screws holding the Amp Cover down and inside you should see a small Blaupunkt Amplifier and Noise Filter (looks like a Transformer) and next to that is the O2 Counter. Just unplug the connector that connects to the O2 Counter and that's it. It's just a timer of sorts and will have zero affect on how the car runs or performs. **Amended with Merlins Post** Quote:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334889864.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1334889869.jpg |
FWIW you can reset the counter.
looking at the counter picture, Note the small standoff just under the wire connection There is a small white or tan colored piece in this standoff, with a small phillips screwdriver simply push the center of this into the box till it clicks, then let it pop back out . Viola the box is now reset |
Ball Cup Replacement
I had very inconsistent shifting in my '83, one moment i could get it into gear well the next i could not.
I removed the view plug below the clutch and there was plenty of clutch material in there. I removed the cat and the clutch pack bell, blew all the dust out of the clutch mechanism (wearing a mask) and readjusted the three forks which were out a half mm. I noticed the throwout bearing lever had a lot of slop and i happen to already have a new stock ball cup bushing. I quickly made a 16" rudimentary tool to hold the ball cup (my car had the clutch update done in 1985 BTW, entirely new) and i carefully installed the plastic ball cup onto the lever pivot and re-installed the lever onto it. I did this without removing the clutch pack and once i got in i knew it was what needed to be done. My 2 and 3rd gear syncros are still a bit slow but what a difference. It shifts in a consistent manner, and is pleasurable to drive. |
Leo,
I've had a small problem having my speedo not indicate any speed while traveling. The next time I started the engine, put the tranny in gear, it worked. I've browsed through this thread, but got a little impatient. Is there an index to all the "fixes"? If not is there a way to make one? Great Thread Thanks, |
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ISSUE: Got a leaky fuel tank. Fear not, I got a fix for you. What you'll need is in the first pics.
FIX: The Plastic Welder came from Harbor Freight. LDPE (Low Density Polyethylene) Welding Rods came in a couple days a go as I had to order them overseas. Got the day off and 4 hours before my son gets out on minimum day today. Prepped the area by sanding it down and using an angled dremel bit, created a valley right down the crack(s). Sanded down some more and then cleaned it all up with some Windex. Heated up the area at around 300 degrees which is the welding and melting point of LDPE plastic. You can see when the tank material is about at it's melting point when it gets shiny. I used one of the ends of the welder to basically mix the melted material (tank) together. In a sense, it's should already be sealed now. I then heated up both the end of the area and the welding rod while pushing down as it slowly melted together. I used the long socket extension to push the material down and flat while heating it up. After it cooled off, you can feel that the rod and tank are blended and one now (ohmmmmmm). Now to reinstall and give it time to test it's holding strength. I have complete faith in it, well semi-complete faith. Ended up removing the brace again as I forgot to weld the crack right next to the first one. I caught it as I was scanning my pics. I ended up welding upside down as I didn't feel like removing the tank. Worked like a charm so far. I went to gas station and filled it up to the very top until the the pump clicked it off. I could never do that as the fuel would come out of the top hose that was not connected. I installed the clamp on the tank side and just fed the hose through the hole and that worked like a charm. Took the car for a freeway spin and came home to do another leak inspection. Not a drop. So far so good and sealed. knock on wood. PICS: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546544.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546548.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546552.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546557.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546562.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546566.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546570.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546576.jpg |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546606.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546611.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546615.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546620.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546625.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546630.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546635.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546639.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546643.jpg |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546672.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546676.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546680.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546685.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546690.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546694.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353546697.jpg |
I had been following the forum for months before I took the plunge and picked up a 83 928s 5spd. So far got the timing belt replaced, water pump replaced, altenator replaced and I'm currently getting a new wiring harness installed. Also manged to get the 30 year old crud called grease out of the sunroof and it works great now. The car still has a way to go but it 30 years old and it's a Porsche. At least it came with a service history.
Thanks MPDano for the common fixes. Hopefully I wont have to experience everyone you've gone through. |
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Motor Mounts: 84 US
Issue: Motor mounts are perished. How do you know? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359251312.jpg The hook should not be that low, the oil pan is close to just sitting on the cross member. The engine will not rock at all when starting up, or revving, and while you're driving the car will feel like it's shaking itself apart as your rpms go up. Fix: I will start with giving all credit to the following 3 resources - Dwayne's Motor Mount Write-Up Stan's Volvo Mount install thread Shark Skin MM/Pan Gasket/Steering Rack write-up Study these and you'll be fine. I'll sum it up here, but these 3 links will walk you through step-by-step, much thanks to them for taking the time to write these up. I got my new mounts (Volvo mounts) from Roger at ************ - $100 for the pair. I followed Dwayne's instructions for a DIY engine support. Cheap & Effective, and allows raising the engine simply by tightening the nuts: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359251055.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359251088.jpg You would start by loosening the sway bar and removing the sway bar to body bolts so it swings free. However, I found it ultimately easier to just remove the sway bar altogether. Then lower the reinforcement plate exposing the steering rack. In this pic, you can see how low the engine is sitting in relation to the cross member. Quite a lot of crap under there, so I did the oil pan gasket at the same time. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359249803.jpg Pull the rack down and maneuver out of the way. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359250250.jpg Follow Dwayne's write-up to remove all the bolts necessary to free up the cross member and Motor Mounts (MM). When the cross member comes down, the MM will just fall away. Pull the old ones out of their mounts and get the new ones in and bolt the top bracket to the top stud. Here is the new mount next to the collapsed one: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359250759.jpg Getting the CM back in is a tricky job. Stan's thread details how to do this with the Volvo mounts. I also found that Dwayne's suggestion of removing the lower control arm to lower shock mount bolt helps a lot as well. Once the CM is back in place, lining up some of the bolts can be tricky. I found that using a jack with a piece of scrap 4x4 worked wonders to line up the INFAMOUS support bolts (+ a couple taps with a hammer), as well as getting the lower control arm to body bolts back in. Follow Dwayne's write-up on re-assembly as it details the order in which the bolts should go back in and the proper torque specs for each. Once everything is back in and the engine is lowered, you'll see a stark difference in the engine height from the new mounts. Mine is sitting 1/2-3/4" higher than it was. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359251733.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359251764.jpg This is a nutshell post, but everything you could possibly need to know for this job can be found in the 3 links at the top. Again, kudos to those guys for posting such detailed info on this fix. It's a lot of work, but I am an amateur-wrencher at best and managed to get through it so if I can do it, any newbie can. Cheers! |
slow battery discharge: unknown source
got tired of always finding battery dead after car sits for a couple of weeks so following some other threads on here finally got around to fix it - I found a battery shut off switch at harbor freight that I was originally going to wire in series with the ground wire from the battery - but then scrounging in the garage I found an old Perko battery shut off that I had taken out of a boat and decided that would be the better alternative since I wouldn't have to fab a box to put the other switch in. BTW the harbor freight switch cost all of $9 bucks so no great loss there.
I went down to the local West marine and bought a foot of #2 ground wire and a couple of lugs and swaged them onto the end with their swage tool (crimper). ENtire operation took no time. Now I can shut off the ground wire when the car is not being used and I'm good to go. One of these days I will get around to tracing the discharge. And yeah, I need to reroute that 3 wire ground connector..... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359332761.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359332802.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1359332832.jpg |
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How to remove the torque tube and transmission. Videos made by Dean Fuller.
Part 1: <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kB9gV6u3wtk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Part 2: <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/BjRDfAprLYI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> |
Wow, great videos. Thanks for posting Riber and Thanks Dean for Documenting this. Once I clear out my garage, I will pull mine in both 928's. I still have all the parts to reseal both 4 speed trannys. Euro will get a Euro 4 speed tranny in place of it's 3 speed.
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ISSUE: Got Steering Play? Loose Steering?
FIX: New Tie Rods and new Delrin Bushings. I didn't take pics for the get go, but here is what I did. I first removed the nuts off the outer tie rod, used my HF pickle fork and smacked it till the ball popped off. Very easy. I then peeled off the broken rubber boot which give you access to the inner tie rod nut. I used a massive 1-1/4" open end wrench and gave it a wack a few times and it broke loose. I then threaded the tie rod off and set it aside. It is best to remove both sides while the rack is still bolted in as this gives you the best leverage. Now, use the old tie rods to get your new ones as close as you can to the same length. Then tighten the locking nut down. I had to use three wrenches to keep the outer tie rod from spinning. Now make sure you slip the boots over the tie rod before re-installing. One side tightened easily (outer tie rod bolt), the drivers side kept spinning, so used my jack and put pressure on the underside of the ball and that kept it from spinning. Now you can start getting psyched up on putting the boots on their collars as this is a real pain in the a$$. Ok, now to move on to the rack bushings. You'll have 4 17mm bolts and they will need a way to hold the top side while unscrewing the nut. Yes, this was a serious pain in the a$$ as well. There is one 17mm at the drivers side end which is easy. Oh, and one of those 17mm bolts is blocked by you battery cable harness going to the starter, use a 10mm socket to remove this. Now, you'll have four 14mm nuts in the center of the rack plate, remove these, now the bottom plate will fall down. Your rack will come down a few inches making it easier to also get the inner part of the boots back on. Removing the old bushings was another pain in the a$$. I heated up the center spacer and pulled it out, then used a chisel to remove the metal housing. See pics of what they look like after mangling them up. I then installed the delrin bushing by using channel locks to squeeze them together. Now the fun part is to put those four 17mm bolts back on which was a pain in the a$$. All in all, a real pain in the a$$ and dirty job but the steering feels real good now. PICS: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363558902.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363558906.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363558911.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363558916.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363558921.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363558925.jpg |
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Issue: Need Wheel Offset HELP?
Fix: Download this 928 Wheel Fitment Spreadsheet. FYI, I didn't create this Excel Spreadsheet, but it works great in figuring out what offset will fit. Spreadsheet Authored by Andrew Olson. Pics: No need. Wheel Size-Offset Fitment Spreadsheet |
Thanks Leo for incorporating an INDEX in "MOST Common 928 Issues AND Fixes"! It really helps to find issues, especially for old codgers like me. Great Tread. I must have been sleeping when you put it in.
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Air intake tubes.
They only make one it has come in a few different sizes, but again they only make one the driver side will fit on the passenger side. Simply turn the rubber collar 180 degrees, and there is another hole so the tube can be flipped to the opposite side. |
hi everyone i'm newbie so when i started reading this i couldn't stop it's brilliant..a wealth of information. i hope when i get my 928 on tuesday i can help and add to this thread. keep up the good work
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wow=wow---great post==thx for all the hard work :)
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Ignition Switch Replacement -
My ignition switch had begun acting up in Miss Purdy and would also intermittently not return to the run position after the engine had started. 1st I removed the lower sheet metal cover (two screws) just under the instrument pod and decided to see if I could replace the ignition switch without a major tear down.
After disconnecting the battery ground terminal, I then removed the electrical connector plug from the back of the ignition switch assembly. Then (for some room to work) I pulled the lower right rectangular connector from the bottom of the instrument cluster. This is seen when looking straight up just beside the ignition switch. Finally I pulled the two pin connecter from the intensive washer button by the drivers right knee. With all these connectors tucked out of the way - it was time to get serious. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384481411.jpg There are only two flat tip machine screws that attach the electrical half of the ignition switch to the mechanical key/tumbler half and you can clearly see one of these screws with the lower metal pod cover removed. (Note: I'd replace these two flat tip screws with Phillips head screws for much easier ignition switch replacement next time) I used a small flat box end ratchet wrench (1/4" - 3/8") and a flat tip bit to remove the lower ignition switch screw. The flat tip bit was held securely in the 1/4" end of the ratchet box end wrench with a thin piece of old rubber glove. Once the screw was turning freely, I used a second flat tip bit like a short screw driver for the final few turns by hand. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384481666.jpg The top screw was a little more difficult but was loosened using a regular 1/4" drive ratchet and a 1/4" socket with a flat tip bit (again) held in place using a thin piece of rubber. Once the top screw was loose, I used the 1/4" socket with the flat tip bit like a short screw driver for the final screw removal. Make sure to use a flat tip bit that is small enough to easily fit down into the screw slot. I had started off with a bit that was slightly too thick for the screw..... With the old switch pulled out, I applied a dab of the yellow 3M non-hardening upholstery sealant to the screw/mounting holes of the new switch. This sealant stays soft and sticky enough to keep the two attaching screws in position but sufficiently pliable to let you easily turn the screws during the final installation. A small alignment pin (electrical switch half) and hole (mechanical half of the assembly) makes sure everything goes together correctly oriented. The center cross piece (with the key in the off position) will now also be aligned right. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384481222.jpg Once the lower screw has been started to hold the new switch half in place - use the 1/4" socket with the flat tip bit as a small screwdriver to start the upper screw. If you cup the fingers of your left hand over the top of the switch assembly you will feel a slight groove or trough in the switch housing that leads to the upper screw. The final step is a little slow going and is pretty much by feel, but use a light touch of your finger tips to determine when the bit engages the screw slot. Note: Here is where the Phillips head screws would have made this step easier.... At this point check to make sure both screws are tight and there is no movement seen between the electrical switch half and the mechanical half of the assembly. Reconnect the ignition switch electrical plug, reinstall the rectangular instrument cluster connector (make sure the plastic electrical film straddles it's card edge before the connector is pushed back into place), the two pin intensive switch, lower metal pod panel - and the battery ground terminal. Start up your new car and take her for a spin. Good Luck, Michael |
Issue: Air Intake Hoses bad?
Fix: Here is an alternative to OEM. They are Mecedes Benz hoses. You'll need 4 and a coupler. Part Number=1170940382 Genuine Mercedes Air Intake Boot/Hoses; Intake Scoop to Air Filter Housing 1 per car. $12.96 Pics: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384699189.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384699194.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384699203.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384699252.jpg |
Was kind of weird buying 4 of those at the MB dealer. I wonder what I have done with them?
Note to self, don't put parts you plan to use "soon" in other than clear storage bins. |
Issue: Got Blown Subwoofer? Yes this is pertinent since our Blaupunkt Speakers also use Foam Surrounds. Same concept, different scale.
Fix: My Ford Expedition custom sub box I build 14 years ago finally blew the foam surrounding. I decided to repair it with a new foam surround that I bought off eBay for around $26 for the kit with two surrounds. My woofer is a dual voice coil rockford fosgate punch, which is a saver if I could. First step is to remove the old foam. Then put the included (kit) adhesive to both the speaker coil and foam, let it try till tacky, then apply. Do the inner first. Let it dry for about an hour, then proceed to do the same on the outer. Let it dry for another hour. Pics: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262263.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262286.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262273.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262304.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262312.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262320.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262326.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262338.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262366.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385262374.jpg |
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I got them off ebay. search silicone hump coupler and the ID size. I don't know it off hand.
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Stuck Brake Rotor
Here's what I did to get my front brake rotors off that were stuck on there good. Probably had never been removed before. The threads blew out in the jack bolt holes so this is what I did to get the rotor off.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1396110725.jpg After liberally applying the lubricant of your choice (I used Kroil), put a 7/16-20 bolt through each of the brake caliper mounts then put a washer and nut on each bolt. I started by just using another nut at the very end of the bolt to try to spread the load out and protect the surface of the rotor. Then I added the piece of stainless steel you see in the picture. Turns out I'm going to replace the rotors anyway... So just thread the nut nearest the caliper mount to add pressure to the rotor. Go back and forth between the two. Once you get it moving, release the bolts, turn the rotor 180 degrees and repeat. Mine didn't just pop loose, I had to work them off like this the whole way (they were pretty rusty on the inside). |
Issue: Got dripping Hood Heat Shield?
Fix: Replace it with a new one. Use a Wet/Dry Vac to remove old material. Use PB Blaster to remove the old adhesive and use Weldwood Contact Cement to adhere the new Heat Shield. Contact Cement goes on real smooth and easy using a paint roller. I used a brush to get in the nooks on the hood. You can get a Kit (Small Pan, 1/2 size Roller and Brush) at Home Depot where I got the Weldwood Contact Cement. FYI, I didn't take a pic of when I sprayed the hood a second time to get all the old adhesive off. Pics: Hood Liner install pics. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462104.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462109.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462114.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462121.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462126.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462131.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462135.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462140.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462145.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299462151.jpg |
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Wait.. So the ball joints are ALUMINUM? Isn't that a little.. Underkill? I think I just made a new word. |
Howdy - I normally lurk on the 911 list but a lady stopped me & said she needed someone to work on (or buy) her 91 928. The problems I know about are leaking fuel tank and leaking radiator. Your tank repair was very helpful - i didn't realise the 928s have plastic tanks, since I haven't had chance to see the car. I was wondering what you did to eliminate the gas fumes from the tank before you started heatng it? I've heard of people filling tanks with water but since you had no flames or sparks I assume that wasn't needed? Thank for the articles. This ladys 928 hasn't been driven for 2 years so I expect the worst. Don't know if I would want to buy it or just work on it... for now I'm just researching the problems I know about. Is the radiator plastic like the fuel tank? BTW, i have the WSMs so that's my next stop. I appreciate any comments you might have for me...
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Be VERY careful using a jack to Re-install. If the tank is not going all the way back to original location DO NOT THINK IT WILL GET THERE WITH JUST A LITTLE PRESSURE WITH THE JACK!! This cost me a new tank, Tanks will split if you lean on them too hard. (30 year old plastic, it may be thick,-good news, bad news- this makes it brittle) I posted this somewhere else on the forum, could save you a heap of dramas.(and money) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-928-technical-forum/764210-more-room-when-re-installing-fuel-tank.html |
Also , if you are "welding" the crack with a soldering iron, shave a little plastic from somewhere on the tank to use to melt in, you should not need much, High up preferably
Plastic from the same tank will guarantee it will melt in, so many types of plastic out there, and 928 tanks do not have an ID anywhere on them to identify the type Porsche used. I took a sliver from the mounting lug next to the filler, worked great-until I put the jack under to "push" the tank back in:rolleyes: PING!- big crack! I kept a hunk of the old tank for welding plastic in case I do something stupid and have to do a seal up on a 928 tank sometime in the future |
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