6 or 12 Ton Jack Stands??

[MPDano]

Since I will be fixing my Transmission myself, I also want to be safe. I have seen 6 or 12 Ton going max height from 24" to almost 30" with a 12 Ton. I really like the Torin since they have a double locking mechanism with a pin. I also plan on getting the Porken Liftbars, how much do these raise the car over the Jack Stands.



What do you guys think? Your input is valuable to me

[Pete R]

I use a set of 3 ton ones. You may find that your jack will not lift high enough to get on those. (I have a pretty big jack and I couldn't use those, fully extended)
You don't really need the lift bars. I jack under the tranny cradle until it just clears the stands at the height I want, place stands under the rear pads, then jack the front (on the lower a arm mount, by the hook). With the stands already on the rear pads it will lift flat using only one side. I have removed my tt and tranny, I haven't needed to go higher than the 3 ton stands. Plus if you get too high it's hard to reach up laying on the creeper. You end up at an odd height that the car is too high to reach from your back and too low to get under any other way.

[dcrasta]

Lift Bars Rock.

I throw the bar under one side, put the Jack in the center, raise the entire side at once.

Stick the Stands under (I use 6 ton Harbor freight), move to the other side, throw the bar under, jack. Bop, Stands under the second side.

I can have my car up on stands in 3 minutes. Lift Bars are really awesome.

I would say the Liftbars add about 4-6 inches to the height (all said and done). I dont like having my jack stands extended so Im usually only 3-4 clicks out of the stand when Im on the lift bars. Comfortable height for me to work on.

[vandenham]

I have a set of the 3 ton ones and used them to replace my clutch and to redo the bearings in the torque tube. I thought they worked very well, but would have been happy if I could have raised the car another inch or two.

[Dean_Fuller]

You can never go too heavy on jack stands. The heavier the wider base, the higher it will extend. You are going to need as much height as you can get to get the TT out and back end with a trans jack under it. I got 2 sets of the 6 ton that Harbor Freight sells and they got the car plenty high to get the TT out on a TTjack and still be steady. Mine are orange with a white cast iron adjuster.

6 ton http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-jack-stand-set-38847.html goes 24" high with 9 1/2" base.

12 ton http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jack-stands-34924.html goes 30" high with a 12" base.

Your in the land of shacking ground so a bigger base will be much nicer.

I like the looks of those Torin....where are they available??

Also when you go for the PorKen lift bars...remember there are 2 models. You need the OB model. Those things weight a TON. You will be amazed. I agree with others..The bars will add 4" or so to the jack stands.

[Danglerb]

Leo,

I'm thinking your driveway has too much slope for a jack stand to be safe, especially with much height vs base size. Maybe start with a 12 ton and modify the base to compensate for the slope?

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Leo,

I'm thinking your driveway has too much slope for a jack stand to be safe, especially with much height vs base size. Maybe start with a 12 ton and modify the base to compensate for the slope?

oh, wow, be careful with that

[MPDano]

I'm going to clear out my garage for this job. Flat surface, no slope.

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by MPDano

I'm going to clear out my garage for this job. Flat surface, no slope.

and inside!

[porken]

12-ton will really make it fly and it will be very stable. You'll need one pair of 6-ton to safely get the car onto the 12s, because you can't make the first lift straight up onto the 12s, though.

IE. lift one side up and put 6-ton at their lowest position under the Liftbar, then raise the other side up to the lowest position of the 12-ton. The same with lowering. The last step will be -slowly- down to 6-ton, then -slowly- down to the ground.

A (Harbor Freight) steel jack with adjustable saddle will lift it high enough. Of course, make sure the floor is level, crack and debris free.


I've done it a couple of times. Note that it is more than a little disconcerting when you are maneuvering the car at that height. Especially when lowering.

[MPDano]

These are awesome replies. I am kinda getting that a 12 ton Jack will be overkill. I was kinda hoping to hear this as the cheapest place I can find a 12 ton was around $84 then times that by 2 and add $90 shipping since the 4 Stands weigh in at around 120 pounds shipping.

I still want the Torin double lock stands but I am now looking at the 6 ton ones. Of course, looking at your Porken Lifts as well. I saw on your Facebook that you were coming up with a new design to fit all cars? Should I wait? If so, when is your expected launch date?

You guys are awesome with your tips as well. Keep 'em coming.

[Dean_Fuller]

Yep...when you go to let the car down from that height...don't forget to breathe....and unclench your butt. Its an unnerving thing to do.

[MPDano]

I ended up dropping the ball since JC Whitney was having a free shipping code. I got 2 pairs of the 6 ton double locking Torins for a total with $5 tax for $82.43

Torin Big Red DOUBLE LOCKING RATCHET JACK STANDS - JCWhitney

[porken]

https://www.facebook.com/pages/PorKen-Products/315086915172165?sk=wall

Originally Posted by MPDano

Of course, looking at your Porken Lifts as well. I saw on your Facebook that you were coming up with a new design to fit all cars? Should I wait? If so, when is your expected launch date?

I've come up with a new low profile bar design to fit -under- many cars, but each one will have unique length, and different types of ends to fit the jack points of each make/model. (BMW E90, E85, etc., Porsche 964, 993, 986, etc.)

I am also working on a simpler version of 928 Liftbars that will be a little less expensive. The '86.5-95 version is done. I still have to test the '78-'86.0 type. They should all be available in a few weeks.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by porken

https://www.facebook.com/pages/PorKen-Products/315086915172165?sk=wall

I've come up with a new low profile bar design to fit -under- many cars, but each one will have unique length, and different types of ends to fit the jack points of each make/model. (BMW E90, E85, etc., Porsche 964, 993, 986, etc.)

I am also working on a simpler version of 928 Liftbars that will be a little less expensive. The '86.5-95 version is done. I still have to test the '78-'86.0 type. They should all be available in a few weeks.

Need a Beta Tester on my 83 OB?

[Justin@Athens]

Originally Posted by dcrasta

Lift Bars Rock.

I throw the bar under one side, put the Jack in the center, raise the entire side at once.

Stick the Stands under (I use 6 ton Harbor freight), move to the other side, throw the bar under, jack. Bop, Stands under the second side.

I can have my car up on stands in 3 minutes. Lift Bars are really awesome.

I would say the Liftbars add about 4-6 inches to the height (all said and done). I dont like having my jack stands extended so Im usually only 3-4 clicks out of the stand when Im on the lift bars. Comfortable height for me to work on.

Who makes the lift bar you have? Reviving this old thread I know!

[AirtekHVAC]

Porken makes, them...I LUV mine!

[Danglerb]

Lots of happy liftbar owners, no regrets going with a lift instead though.

Big issue will all cheap jacks, lowering isn't very easy to control.

[harborman]

No need for special lift bars. I put my floor jack under one of the skid bumpers on the front and raise the frame. Then lower and remove jack, place a 2x4 about 2' long on center of jack and position it under the main support in front (behind oil pan). Now you can raise the front evenly both wheels at one time. The reason to first place jack under skid bumper first is to allow the suspension to stay up enough when lowered to place jack under the main front support. The 2x4 prevents any damage to bolts on cross member. (I think Mrmerlin described this method). Once raised put jack stands on jack points in front, go to rear put jack under center support and easily raise vehicle. Works like a champ! I do have a really good shop floor jack one can roll in place. When I do the front, I make sure the jack is in the correct position so you don't lift on the engine!

[Danglerb]

That is an old trick, make a wood piece to fit between the jack and crossmember.

I don't care for the fit of a jack stand to the frame, so to me the liftbars solve two problems. I'm just too old and lazy to use a creeper under a car.