great rear shock replacement write-up

[morriss]

So I FINALLY got around to replacing the rear shocks this weekend. I cut and pasted the tips you guys gave me from my previous post, plus some info from other write-ups to make the step-by step write-up below. Follow it and you can't go wrong.

**Before you do anything you should check the ride height of the car prior to jacking it up, if the ride height is correct then you simply have to measure the spring perch height to a part on the bottom of the shock. This then transfers to the new shock.
If it needs to be adjusted then IIRC for the rears 1 turn is about 2 MM of ride change.

Take one side apart at a time just in case you need to see how it goes back together and need an example.

NOTE: the shock bottoms are angled so pay attention to how they come out, if you have to force the pin in then its backwards.

1. Remove both lower sway bar bolts from each LCA

2. Remove brake caliper

3. Remove Brake rotor. If needed use an impact screwdriver for getting the rotor screw off.

4. Remove dust shield

5. Remove the shock without driving the pin completely out so you only have to worry about the 1 conical washer. The raised side points towards the swing arm (flat side towards the shock).

-Remove nut on front of Shock Pin (towards front of car).

-Remove nut on back of Shock Pin (towards rear of car). Use a wrench to turn
the rear pin nut while you lever it out with a big screwdriver.

-Remove large washer from both front and back

-Reinstall nut (backwards on the rear of pin -till its flush with the pin). Drive the
pin till it’s level with the rear shock arm.

-Remove nut, then use a long punch or 3/8 extension to continue to push the
pin out until it is past the shock (towards the front).
If the pin falls out there will be 2 beveled washers that fall out of the hub
carrier and one large washer that’s between the rear arm and shock. The
bottom of the coilover sits in the open space in the middle ...between the two
"conical" washers.

-Remove the three 17mm nuts in the rear hatch area, and the shock should fall
out.

6. Once the pin is out wipe it off and roll it on a flat surface - if it’s bent then it should be replaced. A used pin will work. Clean it and the washers very well so the grease you are about to put on them will stick.


At this point I consulted the WSM for disassembling the shock tower because I only replaced the shocks. I bought a heavy-duty spring compressor from Harbor Freight for $59 on sale. The instructions said it was for use on McPhereson struts only, but it worked great on the 928 springs.

With the bolts snugged, the coilover will hang there. Now you must orientate it to the correct position....there is a correct way and you will see it in the way the coilover meets the rear control arm assembly. If it doesn’t meet well, simply place a long thick screw driver through the hole in the lower coilover hole and twist it until it fits nice....may be up to 180'.




7. Use a generous amount of antiseize on the pin and use the thickest grease you can find to hold the beveled washers in the hub carrier.

8. Slide the pin in the rear end and tap it through, put the thick washer in place then through the lower shock mount, then through the hub support (with both of the beveled washers installed), then through the front portion of the control arm. The holes all have to line up exactly for it to pass through. Use a socket extension to apply leverage on the coilover and control arm to position the holes perfectly. If you have used lube and anti-seize you should be able to push the pin in by hand, after 'wiggling' the items into alignment. Once lined up a few simple taps of the hammer and the pin slides straight through.

If you have to pound things to install, back off, look down the hole make sure things like the washers are lined up correctly. A floor jack is handy for fitting the hub carrier back into position.

9. Verify that the beveled washers have not fallen out of position otherwise the rear will be very loose when you drive.

10. When installed it’s time to put the bolt on the other end. When you do so and tighten it, you WILL have to counter hold the other side. Simply placed a wrench on the bolt and let it "spin" until the wrench wedged itself against the rear sway bar.....then torque the front bolt down to specs.

Install your brake rotors and calipers....

[stepson]

I never have done #'s 2, 3 or 4 in all the times that I have done rear shocks. I'm not saying that I shouldn't have done those things, but I just never saw a really good reason to.

[Mrmerlin]

Part of this job is checking the pin,
if you leave it in then you have not checked out the assembly ,
you want to roll the pin to see if its straight ,
then clean it, then smear a generous coating of antiseize on the pin.
I have not tried to remove the pin from the front,
removal to the rear is how I do this job