Here's my intake refresh thread. I powder-coated my valve covers, intake manifolds, plenums, and strut bar. All the steel hardware, brackets, etc. I had replated in yellow cad.

Am very glad I replaced the cam seals and valve gaskets - they were all completely used up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-928-technical-forum/707339-good-writeup-s3-intake-refresh.html

Really does not look so bad. Rob Budd has nice carpet kits, etc for your car: Porsche Interior Restoration Leather Craftsman Classic 9 Leather Always easier to start with the carpet pulled, it probabaly needed replacing anyways. This is what I started with. 79 Mocha Brown 5spd, no rub strips or sunroof. T

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388988047.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388988056.jpg

Frame rails were twisted up pretty good so bought an 80 roller. More here:
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/928-forum/663881-just-peachy-ob-project.html
How long have you owned the 86.5 ? T

Sounds like your on the right path. Be sure to buy a NEW laso plastic impeller water pump, gates timing belt, porkentenisoner, and porklamp for your automatic. If the valve covers are not weeping, I would hold off on that when your ready to do a top-end refresh a little down the road. Also, do a thourough inspection of those fuel line hoses. Prioritize and get the important stuff done first.02 T

!
 

I went through the same criticism when I started to modified the interior of a 94 GTS a few years back. All hell broke loose on that one: Form & Function. Interior mods 94 928 GTS - Rennlist Discussion Forums
Live in TX now, but am originally from CT. I really do miss the sarcasm and quick wit you are displaying, keep it up ! ;) T

He's doing the top end refresh now - look at the pics, the valve covers are exposed. I'd do them now regardless of mileage - at 27 years, they're baked. Mine were with only about 10K more miles on the clock than his.

Correct, replace the valve covers WYIT. I forgot he was doing a top end refresh. I am going to go hide now http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...oilet_claw.gif T

Not sure on the 32v's but on the 16v's it's a pretty major undertaking if this is done "in" the car and not engine "out" of the car. IMHO, you would know if it's leaking before cleaning it all up. Although, removing the valve covers afford the perfect time to get them cleaned up and powdercoated :cool:

It wasn't any big deal on the 32V, doing the valve covers that is. The cam seals on the other hand, definitely required some finesse. Before installation of the new cam seals, lots of cleaning was required to get out all the old bits of the rubber seals. On the rear cam seals, there's just zero visibility. Most of it I was able to get out by 'feel' using some picks and scotch-brite pads. I could snake a mirror and flashlight in to check my work. A lift can come in handy here, because you can actually get some decent line of sight and access from underneath the car, too. I ended up not bothering to lift the car that high, though, I managed to get it all done from up top.

You have a good sense of humor! - You'll fit right in...

Alan

Gorgeous engine!

If you are talking about the upper air filter cover, 928Intl did not have it used, but Roger had it new. It was pricey.

Looks great, good progress....

Don't you people ever work? Dang, I can barely find a 1/2 hour to go to the shop, even on the weekend...I'm jealous.

Keep the pics coming!

It seems that your replacements will be fine. IIRC my replacements from Roger were like that as well. Someone with more expertise should chime in.

I would use Optimol TA on the bolts.

Did you replace the short hose from the heater valve to the block? I would- easy to do now, hard to do later, very inexpensive. Changing the heater valve, while you are there, is a good idea too. Cheap.

You might want to check the crank position sensor, while you are there. The bolt holding it in looks ratty. Who knows what is happening in there.

Also, some of your injector wires look like they've had electrical tape wrapped around them. Maybe time to use self-fusing tape. You don't want any foreign matter getting in there. Ditto for the Ground Point IX wire that you've shown. Needs to be protected.

I am not in any way disputing that the heater valve etc. are functional right now. Its just that while you are in there, you might as well change all of those items before they become a problem.

What Scott said install anew heater control valve and a short hose these are the weak parts of the cooling system

Sorry for delayed response, you've obviously already confirmed that you have a beautiful 86.5 by checking VIN number, last 4 digits being >0999

The 86.5 models had the same organ pipe intake as 85/6 cars, never the 87 "compact" manifold. The main similarities with the later 87 car are regarding suspension parts and brakes in the front, and the frontmost suspension mounts in the rear. There are other minor differences, those are the main ones. I have 86 and 86.5 cars side by side in the garage for reference if you run into anymore headscratchers on where the differences lie. The protruding rear jack points are the only visual clue, a dead giveaway.

Shop a bit for your parts, there are some good options out there right now.

Yes, it is called Optimol or Optimoly.

Where to buy it? Ummm, try Pelican. They stock it.

Yes, it is an aluminum anti-seize. It is "special." Better than other anti-seizes. (This is coming from the experts, like Greg Brown.) I bought a cheap paint brush so that I could apply the anti-seize to bolts with the brush.

Nice work, what di you use to get it soooooooooo shiny?

Purdy!!!

Old guys rule! Dr. Porsche (Ferry) was in his early 50's when the 928 was conceived. :)