Wire repair: here's how I do it.

[Maleficio]

The Navy taught me this style. I personally would never rely upon solder as a wire repair medium. It's just not sturdy enough to hold a wire repair together (in my opinion).

I made up a short tutorial on how to do wire repair (the Navy way). I saw someone had posted photos of repairing wires with solder and electrical tape, and I became concerned. This repair type is extremely durable, is easy and works great. Plus you don't require power to run a soldering iron. I'm sure most of you already do it this way, but obviously there are some that do not, ......and they should.

Notice the last photo: I made another crimp to show how both ends are crimped independently. I cut back the insulation too far on that one. You don't want conductor showing on the outside of the crimp.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure no conductor is showing on the outsides of the crimp. Butting the insulation up against the barrel will greatly enhance rigidity, thus increasing the life of the repair. Having conductor exposed on the outsides of the crimp makes the repair very flexible which introduces a "weak link" in the circuit.

One more tip: if you want to use this style of heat-shrink, remember that one end is wider than the other, so put the heat-shrink on the wire before doing the repair, and ensure the wider end is facing the repair so that you can slide it over the splice/crimp. Otherwise you'll have to cut the repair and do it all over again.
I figure the photos can speak for themselves.

[Maleficio]

[Maleficio]

[Maleficio]

When using flame to shrink the sleeve, place the sleeve in the blue part of the flame to keep from charring the sleeve and the wire. Works great, though on jets I use a battery-powered heat gun.

Be sure and give the wires a good hard tug to verify a tight fit. Enjoy.


One more tip: if you want to use this style of heat-shrink, remember that one end is wider than the other, so put the heat-shrink on the wire before doing the repair, and ensure the wider end is facing the repair so that you can slide it over the splice/crimp. Otherwise you'll have to cut the repair and do it all over again.

[Landseer]

Now that's real crimping. And shrinking.

I get where you are coming from now!

Where can I find that stuff?

[Maleficio]

I've seen nice splices and regular heat shrink kits at most auto parts stores. Pepboys has a great selection.

[Danglerb]

Both wires get crimped, but on opposite sides?

Looks like a nice clean job, but does that crimper have enough force?

Best crimp stuff maybe at boat places.

[Maleficio]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Both wires get crimped, but on opposite sides?

Looks like a nice clean job, but does that crimper have enough force?

Best crimp stuff maybe at boat places.

Yes, each wire end gets crimped. There's an opening in the middle to see wire end to make sure it's in the crimp deep enough.

That crimp tool does a marvelous job. Just make sure and use the right size crimp for the wire gauge, and it'll clamp down perfectly.

Most regular wire strippers have crimp slots just for this purpose.

[Maleficio]

I guess it looks as though only one end got crimped, but both ends got it, just on the other side.

[Maleficio]

I made another one to show both ends of the splice crimped.

I didn't do this on purpose, I was in a hurry, and screwed it up. The best mantra I've ever heard for maintenance is "Go slow to go fast". If you go slow, and do it right, step by step, you won't have to come back and do it again.

[Maleficio]

I cut back the insulation too far on that one. You don't want conductor showing on the outside of the crimp.


THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure no conductor is showing on the outsides of the crimp. Butting the insulation up against the barrel will greatly enhance rigidity, thus increasing the life of the repair. Having conductor exposed on the outsides of the crimp makes the repair very flexible which introduces a "weak link" in the circuit.

[Landseer]

I've been using bare barrel connectors and feeding solder into the center hole, then shrink.

You have better crimpers then I do. And much better (expensive?) mil grade shrink.


What to you think about the typical store-bought connectors having the hard plastic cover built-on?

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Maleficio

I cut back the insulation too far on that one. You don't want conductor showing on the outside of the crimp.

Looks good, but I would still solder it along with your crimp.

[Linderpat]

I typically do not solder either, and have never had a problem. Benn doing this way for many years. Maleficio is spot on - the solder is too brittle and could fail.

[Ducman82]

small airplanes are most military aircraft and crimped, not soldered. thats how the USAF taught me!

[Danglerb]

Correctly crimped, solder wont get into the junction anyway, its a mass of solid metal.

For hardcore crimping check out some of the off grid, golf cart, and boating sites.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

hardcore crimping

This may pick up "not safe for work" Websites upon a Google Search

[Danglerb]

Just tried it, maybe ONE questionable site, the worst was every "serious" crimping discussion seems to include a debate over soldering.

BTW can't you set google to virgin or something like that?

[Fogey1]

Originally Posted by Landseer

... You have ...much better (expensive?) mil grade shrink...

+1. Where do you source those heat shrinks? And what are those bands inside at each end?

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Just tried it, maybe ONE questionable site, the worst was every "serious" crimping discussion seems to include a debate over soldering.

BTW can't you set google to virgin or something like that?

No Virgin option settings in my Google Chrome Browser. Here's a link to the same question about Solder versus Crimp when I rebuilt my Harness. FYI, Zero electrical problems so far with my "Crimp" job.

Porsche 928 Forums dot com - View topic - Pics of my First 928 and Current Project