Update on my 928

[The Deputy]

Here's the good news...you made the right move replacing those mounts, repairing oil pan leak and suspension (granted, I believe it would have been beneficial too clean those ride height adjuster while you had it apart...since you will most likely be addressing issues with ride height someday in the future).

Now the bad news...I thought of some more things you can do while you're at it...

Anti-freeze flush and replacement of fluid. There are two plugs, one on each side of the engine towards to rear that need to be removed, plus the blue plastic one on the bottom of the radiator. The two plugs on the engine can be a bugger, so soak them with penetrating oil liberally for a couple days before attacking. Then, don't be an idiot like me and over look the thermostat housing...it is probably leaking like mine. There are a few o-rings at the base of the housing that need to be replaced along with the thermostat...and check all of your hoses too while you are at it...this job is a must in my opinion while you have it drained...then refill with some extended life anti-freeze and you should be good to go for a while.

Then there is the issue of the molding over your entrance door...this should be done to make its appearance more aesthetically pleasing.

Okay, the last one is probably not that important...lol

But seriously...great job so far!

Brian.

[The Deputy]

Also, thought I shouold mention...those coolant plugs in the block will strip out very, very easily...so use great caution. You mentioned earlier that you sometimes have a problem with over tighgtening things...and this area of the engine block is not one where you would want that rule to apply.

Also, always use a six point wrench or socket while removing these plugs and great patients. Me, I prefer a wrench...so you can watch what is happening better to the plugs hex head. But, sometimes a socket is the only solution.

Good luck,

Brian.

[Awaino]

Thanks Brian. The ride height adjusters I will come back to. I can get that apart pretty easy. The cooling flush I will add to the list, but it wont be done as part of this project. I have to get the oil pan off, clean everything, put on the new seal, install the new engine mounts, and put it all back together. Get everything settled, torque to spec, drive it, and get it aligned on Friday. Saturday is the Absaroka PCA mock Rally that I am trying to get ready for. I may still make it. Crossing fingers.

And as far as the door molding. It wasn't even on my radar. This property is oooolllllddd. The house was built in 1942, with two additions in varying levels of electrical code compliance. I have a very long list to fix before molding on the garage door. Probably a bathroom and kitchen remodel coming up this summer, and new hardwood floor throughout, with a re-finish on some old lumber flooring we found under some of the carpet. I'll be done with the project list when I'm dead. lol.

[The Deputy]

Originally Posted by Awaino

Get everything settled, torque to spec, drive it, and get it aligned on Friday. Saturday is the Absaroka PCA mock Rally that I am trying to get ready for. I may still make it.

By Friday...

Man...to be young again...lol

Good luck and as an added measure I'll keep my fingers crossed, too.

Brian.

[Awaino]

As a 39 year old Cancer survivor, I don't feel that young anymore. Sometimes you just have to get something done. I had another scare a few weeks ago, and decided I needed to get this stuff done just in case. You never know when you wont have another tomorrow. Better get driving today. =)

[The Deputy]

Originally Posted by Awaino

Sometimes you just have to get something done.

Now, you're sounding like my wife...lol

I had another scare a few weeks ago, and decided I needed to get this stuff done just in case.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for a good outcome in this department, too. Keep up the fight! Wish I was closer to give you a hand.

Brian.

[Awaino]

Thanks for the offer of help, it would be nice. My wife did clean off the engine mount crossbar while I was working on the oil pan, so that was good.

Ok, I have all the bolts out except 4 that are half way out. How do I safely drop the oil pan without injuring myself or gouging the metal with say, a screwdriver? I thought it would drop with a little help, but it's stuck hard.

I have torque wrench with inch lbs that'll be here tomorrow afternoon. I took the day off work. I'm hoping I can get it off in the morning and get it cleaned up. Then get the new seal on and ready to torque. Then it's put it all back together time. Let's see if I remember how the puzzle goes. =)

[The Deputy]

I'd get some sort of small table or something of the appropriate height and place it under the oil pan, remove those last four bolts completely, and then double check, if not triple check for any you may have missed...and if all looks well...then ever so gently tap on the oil pan with a block of wood and hammer from above on the large lip that sticks out in the front. Working ever so slowly and take your time to check for issues along the way...don't rush things.

And if it still won't drop down I may use a small puddy knife and gently push it between the pan and block in the easiest spot for doing so, that way I'm sure to be able to see what is going on and not gouge the material of either surface.

Good luck,

Brian.

[Awaino]

Good progress today. I'll post pics tomorrow. Arms are dead tired... Short version, almost have the crossbar re-installed. New oil pan seal, new engine mounts, lots of cleaning. Back to the rack tomorrow. Woot!

[Awaino]

Ok, here is the latest. Bottom line, BluTwo is back on her wheels and running great. Alignment tomorrow morning. I've done about 40 miles on some bumpy roads to settle the suspension. I've gone back and re checked torque where I could reach without lifting the car again. So great driving her again. Big thanks to my father in law for coming over to help. I was running out of time and energy to get it completed by this weekend for our rally.

A few things I learned.
1. Rack boots are a pain in the ass. White lithium grease and some pliers covered with a thick towel did the trick.
2. Spring/shock in first, new a-arm in next, then the bottom shock pin, then the lower control arm front and back, then jack the lower a-arm until you can pop the upper ball joint in. Holy moley that took a while to figure out.
3. New engine mounts will change all of the measurements and geometry of the engine position and connecting pieces, top and bottom. Be careful.
4. Even if you are sure the rack is centered, and the steering wheel is straight, you can still be off by one spline. Mine will just have to be ok for now, I had it all back together by the time I noticed.
5. Aligning the hood after removing it is harder than it seems. I'll have to come back to that one later.
6. I'm tired and sore, but smiling like I won the lottery

Here are some pics.

[Awaino]

Next up, once I recover a bit, is the alternator rear cover, gasket and new hose. I also have a passenger front fender splash guard on the way. I also need to figure out what to do with my fender that is damaged from whenever the front spoiler was ripped off. Many projects left on the list to be sure. I hope you guys are all enjoying this adventure I am on. Thank you for the helpful guidance and suggestions you have provided.

[8bender]

very nice , looks great

[The Deputy]

You should be very proud, that is a ton of work in a short amount of time. Good luck on your rally/get together. I hope the girl does you proud.

Brian.

[Awaino]

Aaaaaand they cancelled it because of rain......

They don't want to get their cars dirty I guess.

I'm going driving anyway.

[Awaino]

I had an overheat situation happen on the way home. I was stuck in road construction and apparently my electric fan(or something in that circuit) went bad. Hopefully nothing bad happened. Once I got going again everything cooled back down. I just kept turning it off while I was waiting as there was no where to pull off at all. It was just below the red with not warning lights or anything, so hopefully all is ok. I'll go through the troubleshooting for the fan in the morning and hopefully still be able to go out for a ride later in the day.

[Landseer]

It is possible to refill the viscous fan with new silicone fluid.

I've had several cars that ran hot prior to doing that work.

The electric fan in front of radiator is really there for extra cooling when using AC.

[The Deputy]

A partially blocked radiator could cause this also. Sediment collects in the cores, especially the lower cores, and while idling the water pump does not create sufficient pressure to force coolant through the partially obstructed cores.

Happens quite often on cars that have been sitting for a long period of time...and older cars in general, and especially if they have never had a proper flush done to the system

My 944 was only eight years old when I replaced its rad, and it had only sat for two years without driving...before it became an issue.

I'd surely double check the fan, thermostat and do a flush first...plus...just draining the fluid will sometimes give you a good idea of its quality and cooling values.

Brian.

[Awaino]

I checked the relay, fuse and voltage to the fan this morning, and no fan. It should be on all the time with the A/C button on and the hood button pressed (tie wrapped down). It could also be the things you guys suggested, but the fan is not working at all as its own issue. I guess she's back I the garage until I figure this one out...

[Awaino]

This is where I got the troubleshooting info.

Cooling Fan Troubleshooting Guide

It says the aux fan should turn on if the water temp OR freon temp get too high to provide cooling.

[Awaino]

Ok, so the aux fan is definitely dead. I will also try the viscous oil on the main fan and see if that helps.