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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 38
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Okay, I'm replacing yet ANOTHER engine component this week in hopes of fixing my hot start issue. This week it'll be a new coil, next week maybe a battery then a week later maybe a new starter?
Here's the problem, my car starts without fail when cold or after having been driven for short distances. Even after long distances it will start provided that it is given sufficient time to cool down. It will not start after it has been driven for times over 15 minutes and the cool down time is less than about an hour or more. It's weird because it is not consistent other than what I've described. Here's what I've done/replaced: New fuel pressure regulator New fuel damper Rebuilt injectors (I did these myself) New plug wires New DME relay In the plans for replacement: New coil on order New battery New starter New dist. cap and rotor The problem does not seem to be electrical however but I suppose it could be. The starter turns just fine but the engine will not start. Any ideas?
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1987 Black 951 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 63
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Maybe you should check your fuel pump check valve. I had this problem and I replaced the pump and valve and it went away. I would eventually get it to start, but I would have to crank it for like 10 seconds 3 or 4 times.
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 1,856
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Hook up a scope and compare the speed/ref. sensor signals between a cold engine where it starts easily versus a hot engine when it doesn't start. The differnces in the signals will tell you right away what the problem is. This is the very first step in the DME/KLR test-manual. Saves you a tonne of time and money chasing your tail swapping new parts in unnecessarily.
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 38
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Okay, the problem occured again last night. It's very frustrating!
I ordered a new fuel pump and check valve today so we'll see if that resolves it. An update will follow.
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1987 Black 951 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Upstate New York
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It sounds like you are leaking down the residual pressure in the fuel rail needed to keep the fuel from boiling and causing vapor lock.
Get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and see what happens to the fuel pressure when you turn off the car. If it drops below about 20 psi, you won't be able to get the car started when it is hot. gb
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Good luck, George Beuselinck |
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So, if I'm loosing pressure once the engine gets hot would a new fuel pump and check valve resolve the problem?
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1987 Black 951 |
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Location: Upstate New York
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Possibly, but it could also be a bad injector or two, or it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator...
gb
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Good luck, George Beuselinck |
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Okay, I've already rebuilt my injectors and replaced my FPR along with the damper. Guess I may have to fork over the $400+ for NEW injectors if the pump doesn't fix it, lol.
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1987 Black 951 |
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Spend 30 bucks on the guage first.
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Alex - PCA Polar Region - Boxster Muncher 86' 944 Turbo - Megasquirt - 326 rwhp/340lbft @ 18 psi SOLD www.edmontonhomelife.com www.edmontonrealestate.ws |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Richardson, TX
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Fuel pump and check valve replaced. Fuel supply and return lines replaced as well, thanks to Bob and the crew at RUF auto!
We'll see how it goes. It's started every time since yesterday afternoon so maybe it's fixed!
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1987 Black 951 |
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Location: Richardson, TX
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Drove the car yesterday and it started every time without problem until I tried to start it about four hours past turning off the engine when I got home. I cranked and cranked and cranked it but the engine just would not start. At this point I suppose that I will try replacing one or both of the sensors at the back of the engine.
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1987 Black 951 |
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