Running a boost controller & keeping the CV for proper KLR & knock sensing

[MarkRobinson]

Hi Guys,

I have an '88 turbo S, has a full 3" exhaust on it with Vitesse chips (not installed yet) & a Greddy EBC (not installed yet either.

My car does not boost correctly: I believe the CV is probably shot. I've read about putting power to it & testing the actuation + ensuring it's all sealed up.

I've heard that you can "drill out" your CV so that the unit + KLR will still provide knock sensing, but you can then raise your boost w/o as much worry. MY last 951, I ran 18psi: it was quite fun...I'd like to do the same on this car: 17-18psi max as I'm aware the stock k26 compressor runs out at about 17psi, and 18 will just yield more torque (which is fine with me). i run an NGK BKR7E plug + am about to swap out my MSD 6AL for a Crane HI-6.

Does anyone else know about this "drilling" of the CV and other things I can do to test it? Possible plug the line that runs from the CV to the air inlet boot to the turbo? Thanks!

Mark.

[nynor]

didn't we just have a thread about this very thing? i think i am having deja vu or something.

[nize]

hi mark, i really don't think this is possible but if you find out please let us know how!

[kdjones2000]

Mark, you might want to ask (And then duck!) over on Rennlist. Maybe someone over there has tried or heard of this.

[MarkRobinson]

Na, though I'm sure the membership over at Renn won't suffer because of my absence, the moderators would have to publicly beg my forgiveness like they publicly embarassed themselves at the behalf of my membership.

Mark.

[nize]

rennlist has turned into a vendor-sponsored moneymaking joke.

[MarkRobinson]

Well I was "banned" because I wouldn't pay someone else's bill. Then they privagely acknowledged their mistake after I spent 4 months trying to get them to look at the bill again, & they reinstated my membership, but wouldn't allow me to mention my turbo kits just to show others that I was probably wrong in the matter & that I was being punished.

I posted turbo pictures on behalf of a client who couldn't post pictures, & I was threatened with being banned. Realizing that life's too short, I went public & was banned.

I've been happy ever since.

Mark

[kdjones2000]

Yet another satisfied customer.......

[bearone2]

Originally Posted by nynor

didn't we just have a thread about this very thing? i think i am having deja vu or something.

post a link

[nize]

link here;
bypassing cycling valve

no idea why that thread is in the n/a forum.

[nize]

oh, here's another link;
What's purpose of the "venturi tube"?

[bearone2]

thanks

[PAUERMAN]

Mark,

Even though you will lose some knock protection without the cycling valve, you are going to boosting higher than the MAP sensor in the KLR is able to read anyway. When you install you Greedy EBC, just bypass the cycling valve all together and you'll be fine at 17-18 psi.

I also run a Crane HI-6 CD ignition box with NGK BPR7ES plugs gapped at .030" and I haven't had any ignition issues whatsoever. I pushed 22 psi on the dyno and everything was fine.

Rennlist is suck a joke. The way the moderators enforce their "rules" is simply laughable. Over here, we don't have to deal with the any of that BS attitude or bulging egos.

[MarkRobinson]

Thanks Vic, that's what I plan to do as well: I have the Greddy EBC + a fresh set of BPR7ES (bought this am) & selling the MSD that's on it for an HI-6.

I was at SEMA 10 years ago: was absolutely amazed of the spark difference between the HI-6 & MSD 6A setups: it "appeared" at least 2-3x as strong/bright per the demonstration. On the 951, was noticably smoother.

I also dyno'd an MSD setup on a 951 back in '96: 320rwhp/335rwtq both before & after the MSD. Just wasn't strong enough to make any difference over the factory system.

Mark