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Rocket Surgeon
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wanted: a more "sudden" brake pedal feel
I deserve to get flamed for starting a "which brake pad should I buy?" thread, but which brake pad should I buy?
I have a turbo S, and my mom has a '79 SC. if you've ever driven an SC/Carrera (or hell--any newer performance car) you know what I mean when I say sudden--you stab the brakes and it throws you into the seat belts. I'm running StopTech street pads right now, and while they have bite if I push the pedal through the floor, I want something with more initial grip. This is a 99% street car that will see track days, but I can swap pads for that. Is that hard pedal a 951 trait, or are there pads to help? I have new rotors, my calipers are all in good shape, etc, so I'm not thinking I have a mechanical problem. I replaced all of the rotors and pads after I bought the car, and it had some random replacement pads that I thought could be the problem. A couple thousand miles later and that feel I want simply isn't there yet. This car feels industrial-strength in every respect...it simply takes more effort to drive than a 911. Mom and I swapped cars for the weekend and both of us decided that each others' cars were a breath of fresh air. My climate control, shifting ease, solid feeling, power steering versus her brakes, lightness, soundtrack and old-world feel had both of us loving the brand even more. It proved it's simply very had to have a bad time in a Porsche!
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'89 951S, Velvet Red Plymouth Superbird, Corporation Blue Plymouth Superbird, Blue Fire Metallic |
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It may be the brakes themselves. I have Big Reds on my 951 that will slam you into to windshield. but the brakes on my 928 are "sluggish" by comparison. While they do have good power there is much more "push" required They are the S4 calipers whick I believe are the 951 stock brakes. You may also want to try stainless steel brake lines to elimate the expansion in the rubber hose. You could go to a more "racing" pad but those usually work better hot and sometimes squeal
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1979 928 85 Euro 2v motor,S4 Brakes and suspension, 1988 951 street legal track car(sold) Neon SRT4 track car |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,347
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What else can you tell us about your 951 brakes?
How old is the fluid? How old are the rotors and pads? Any known leaks? Master cylinder issues? All of these components will have an impact on brake feel. Other items like Shocks and tires can also impact how a car feels under braking.
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1970 914-6 Past: 2000 Boxster 2.7, 1987 944, 1987 924S 1978 911SC, 1976 914 2.0, 1970 914 w/2056 |
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Yeah, change the fluid and bleed the system. You want a rock-hard pedal, that'll help.
You might also consider a venturi delete. I did that in mine and it really helped the braking - because it supplied better vacuum to the brake booster. The venturis split the vacuum supply for the booster between a couple sources - maybe the idea is to get a more consistent vacuum than with one source. When you do the venturi delete, you come out with the brake booster vacuum supplied by only the middle outlet on the intake. Doing that really helped my braking. Or it may simply be the two venturi's were old and leaking...
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83 944 NA - Black on black 86 951 - Red - SOLD 7/21 16 Ford Expedition He who hesitates is lost. Last edited by mikepellegrini; 10-24-2011 at 07:48 PM.. |
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GorillaFoot
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: largo, FL
Posts: 369
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Assuming you bled the brakes and the system is working properly, if the pedal is still soft, pads DEFINITELY make a difference. I used to run Hawk DTC 60's and 70's at the track- lots of bite, but not a hard pedal and release characteristics were poor. I switched to CL Brakes RC6E pads and the pedal is MUCH firmer. Everything is better with the CL brakes- firmness, longevity, consistency from lap to lap,release and deceleration- I was amazed when I reviewed data from my Racelogic box. Anyhoo...
But when I get home and store my pads, I switch in some cheapo Textar pads I bought from Vertex Auto. By far the hardest pad I have ever had in any car, ever. If you want a rock hard pedal, there you go. |
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Rocket Surgeon
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thanks for the replies.
I'm not really having any mechanical problems with my braking system--they just don't have the initial bite that a 911 or current car would have. I CAN engage the ABS if I shove down really hard, so it's not like I can't lock the wheels, but it takes a lot of pedal effort to do it. -rotors and pads have under 3k miles on them and were changed this summer. -venturi delete N/A for me--that was an '86-only thing. -the brake fluid is a year old with no track days, and I have no leaks. -my pedal isn't soft by any means--it's a brick. -The pistons in the calipers were all free and sliding easily when I changed the pads. any pad suggestions?
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'89 951S, Velvet Red Plymouth Superbird, Corporation Blue Plymouth Superbird, Blue Fire Metallic |
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Quality
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Philadelphia area and Morristown NJ
Posts: 951
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I know in the Honda community, changing the master cylinder or bias can really impact the amount of pedal pressure required to lock up the brakes.
You basically want less travel, and more output, from the brakes, right? You want a 1/4'' press to give you what a 2'' push gives you now, right (something to that effect)?
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85.5 944 NA 5spd - Sold but not forgotten 89 951 Turbo S - Revival in progress... ![]() |
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Rocket Surgeon
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or I want to know that a pedal that takes a lot of effort to push down is correct...
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'89 951S, Velvet Red Plymouth Superbird, Corporation Blue Plymouth Superbird, Blue Fire Metallic |
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Quality
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Philadelphia area and Morristown NJ
Posts: 951
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Well that's relative. There is a spec for pre-travel, engagement, etc. Haynes manual has them I believe. Google search and filter on rennlist and here, or naked google search and it should pick a thread.
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85.5 944 NA 5spd - Sold but not forgotten 89 951 Turbo S - Revival in progress... ![]() |
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Registered
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Brake fluid and bleeding worked for me. But I don't ever think it will feel like my dad's audi. And in my opinion, I like a little pedal travel. Quite frankly, I don't particularly care for the "instant on" feel in my brakes. Maybe they take a little getting used to.
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1988 944 turbo |
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your average wrencher...
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the best improvement for mine was a simple stainless line upgrade. i noticed the difference more in that than a pad/rotor change.
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1982 931 *project* 1986 951 Garrett turbo, Rogue Tuned (sold ![]() 1987 944S chipped, konis, rollbar (traded) 1979 924 total rebuild and blueprinted (sold) |
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Rocket Surgeon
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Quote:
True...I have an '87S and an '80 931 and both have a more "boosted" feel. I don't have too much experience driving other 951's, though. Pedal travel, engagement, etc. are fine in my opinion. My pedal is high and tight, and I don't feel any mushiness at all. it just seems to take a lot of effort to stop, and I want more of that initial bite.
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'89 951S, Velvet Red Plymouth Superbird, Corporation Blue Plymouth Superbird, Blue Fire Metallic |
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NY944Turbo
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Quote:
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I have a 89 951 (60K mi) with stainless hoses, fresh super blue fluid, and Performance Friction pads ($350) on the front, stock on the rear. I have no issues with pedal feel or brake performance. When I bought the car about a year ago, brakes were terrible because of worn out f pads and collapsed hoses and air in system. I don't like the dust, but can live with it. Good luck!
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Guy Guillet 89 Turbo S 98 A4 APR |
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All Spooled Up
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Between NE and Central PA
Posts: 2,516
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Bleed the brakes (and clutch) again. If that doesn't improve things, it must be those pads that you are running.
EDIT: I was just thinking, those symptoms could also be caused by a problem with the vacuum assist system (brake booster). Check the diaphragm, vacuum reservoir, lines, and connections for leakiness, and make sure that the check valve is operating correctly. Last edited by wild man; 10-30-2011 at 09:32 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 390
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I had a 944 turbo S...
I had a 944 turbo S with SS lines, good rotors, changed the fluid every year, and used Hawk HP+ pads. I was very happy with the pedal feel. Stopped better than my stock Boxster S.
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Custom User Title
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Quote:
You said your pedal is hard as a brick - it shouldn't be. It should be kinda soft and grippy - that's the function of the brake booster, when it's working. A good test to see if your brake booster is working is put your foot on your brake, and apply a little pressure - it's hard as a brick, right? Now start the car. If the booster is working properly, when the car starts, the pedal should go down quickly a couple inches, as vacuum builds - it becomes kinda squishy. That's the vacuum assist working. If it's still hard as a brick after the car is started, then the booster isn't working. If your car doesn't have venturi's it does have a lot of vacuum hoses with the potential to leak. That's where I'd start looking. That's a lot easier than replacing the booster...
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83 944 NA - Black on black 86 951 - Red - SOLD 7/21 16 Ford Expedition He who hesitates is lost. |
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Rocket Surgeon
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hoses are a 'next spring' project with the top end overhaul I'll be doing. I've given thoughts to vacuum leaks, and yeah there are a LOT of points for that in this car...
I'll be putting the car away in the next couple weeks, and will play more in the spring. I have to get my 944S back on the road SOON--it's the one with snow tires on it!
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'89 951S, Velvet Red Plymouth Superbird, Corporation Blue Plymouth Superbird, Blue Fire Metallic |
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