how difficult to replace all coolant hoses and vacumn lines

quickster · 01-09-2011, 10:18 AM

My 1987 944 turbo, 106000 miles still has the orginal coolant hoses and vacumn hoses. Looking at them they seem to be in good shape but after 24 years im sure they need replacing.

On the vacumn lines I know you need to remove the intake manifold and im a little leery of doing with the chance of breaking off a bolt or installing the injectors correctly.

I would think the coolant hoses would be a little easier.

I can do a lot of mechanical stuff but im wondering if this would be over my head, especially halfway through the job.

I've looked at clarks garage and the instructions there are pretty good.
Is there a better step by step procedure for this or is this a job better left to a porsche shop.

thanks

quickster

Pete R · Pete R's Garage

Is it "difficult" is kind of relative. To some it is easy, others impossible. Even to an expert it's time consuming. Chance are if a bolt is gonna break for you it will break for the shop. If you can do a lot of mechanical stuff you would probably be okay. Just don't rip everything off all at once then try to put it back. I would replace one hose at time. If someting looks tough to remember, take a pic or make a sketch before you take it off. If you can be patient and methodical I see no reason why you couldn't do it.

commdiver · commdiver's Garage

Yes and once you remove, intake tract, fuel rail and all coolant lines this is a perfect time to access water pump, turbo and all belts and rollers. Of course all this stuff is going to run around $800

quickster · 01-13-2011, 06:07 AM

To get to all the coolant hoses do i need to remove the intake manifold?, anything else other than the air cleaner assembly..

Paulyy · 01-13-2011, 06:25 AM

nah, you dont. just the IC pipes.
Where you planning to buy the hoses from?

choinga · 01-13-2011, 07:41 AM

vacuum lines and coolant hoses are about as basic of a job as you can get working on these cars. Getting the intake off is pretty easy, just take your time. After you get it off and on once, you'll be able to cut the time in half. Getting the fuel rail off and on isn't really that bad either - once you get all 4 bolts off the fuel rail give a good tug and the injectors will pop right out. Be prepared with new o-rings in case they need them. Be sure to dip your finger in your ATF fluid reservoir and get some on each of the rings before putting them back in there. When you put the rail back on, just seat the injectors in their respective slots and gently push the rail in. The injectors are pretty bulletproof...just make sure you aren't bonking the tips into stuff when you move the rail around. Once it's seated good, bolt it up and you're good to go.

As for the vacuum lines, just replace one at a time and you should be OK. I've read of people getting themselves into trouble when they start ripping everything out and then can't remember where the lines go or how they were routed. Buy a silicon kit with some "T" connectors and measure each segment, cut it and if you want you can use some small zip ties on the ends to make sure they don't pop off. I only do this on the one connector that's under the throttle body as it's impossible to get it back on there if it pops without removing the IC pipe.

If you still have the stock airbox, you'll have to get all of that out of the way to do the coolant hoses - but that's pretty easy to remove as well.

Like I said, this is a pretty easy job - just go slow the first time around and you'll be OK. I doubt very seriously you'll have any issues with broken bolts around the intake area. Just be careful putting bolts back in - especially the intake ones to the block...you strip those and you're in the hurt locker. I stripped one of the ones that holds the fuel rail to the intake...but I just pulled the intake off and used a timesert to refinish the hole and plan on buying a new powder coated intake at some point anyway, so not a big deal. It's mainly the bolts that go into the aluminum block that you want to be very careful not to strip. Also, if you have a torque wrench, get on those bolts and make sure you have them right. The intake bolts are in the 12-15 ft/lb range as are the ones that hold the fuel rail down. Don't torque the hell out of them getting them back on.

Good luck!

chrenan · 01-13-2011, 08:11 AM

Not a hard job, get things stripped down to this point and you'll have easy access to everything (note the nose panel and intercooler do not need to come out):

quickster · 01-14-2011, 04:28 PM

hey guys, thanks very much for the tips

thanks
quickster
west point, va

quickster · 01-14-2011, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paulyy

nah, you dont. just the IC pipes.
Where you planning to buy the hoses from?

i just some stuff from pelican, they are pretty good, so will probably get the coolant hoses, not sure about vacumn lines, lindsey maybe.

Ronin-951 · 01-17-2011, 03:51 PM

Try to get some new heater hoses in there too while the intake is off. Drawing a line at what repair work to do 'while your in there' is tough, just remember, car is 24 years old and the engine bay is a high heat area, everything rubber or plastic is cooked and ready to fail if its original. Dont want to spend your money...but go BIG or stay close to home.

quickster · 01-29-2011, 01:58 PM

yeah, i would definitely change the heater control & hoses at the back of the engine. how hard is that to get to and replace once you get to this point with the intake etc removed...

Paulyy · 01-29-2011, 04:56 PM

it's pretty simple and easy to get to.

Click Here for a vaccum diagram. Just remember how the cycling valve is connected which shouldn't be to hard. and Don't worry about the wastegate lines (green)

chrenan · 01-30-2011, 02:13 PM

Quote:

yeah, i would definitely change the heater control & hoses at the back of the engine. how hard is that to get to and replace once you get to this point with the intake etc removed...

Just did those buggers last night, the ones that connect to the heater core. Not much fun, but not the worst job I've ever done. Last time I did the coolant hoses I skipped those ones. Glad I didn't this time, they looked original and well over due for replacement.

Grandad#3 · 01-30-2011, 06:47 PM

Put some rags over the holes in the Bell Housing to catch any coolant from the Heater Hoses. Keep the rags in place. Now is the time to also clean the Main Ground Cable on top of the Bell Housing while the hoses are removed. Much easier at this time to remove the Ground Cable Bolt to clean under with a wire brush. Always use a Torque Wench on any Engine Bolt, set for the proper value. If unknown ask one of us.

Cheers,
Larry

chrenan · 01-30-2011, 07:56 PM

Good points Larry. Also, disconnect the bottom hose on the heater core before the top hose, that will drain much if the coolant out of the upper valve and hose and lower the risk of it running over the top/back if the bell housing.

quickster · 08:09 AM

thanks again guys for all the pointers, but one last question, i hope. Clarks garage makes it sound easy to pull the radiator and replace, you pull the radiator from the top?, is it as easy as it sounds

Bonestock951S · 02-06-2011, 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quickster

thanks again guys for all the pointers, but one last question, i hope. Clarks garage makes it sound easy to pull the radiator and replace, you pull the radiator from the top?, is it as easy as it sounds

Yes, pulling the radiator is not that difficult. Once you have the hoses and everything removed, loosen the top two retaining bolts, tilt the top towards the rear of the car, and just carefully work it up and out.

quickster · 02-07-2011, 01:42 PM

ok, with the intake manifold off should i replace the idle control valve with rebuilt, new or just clean.
I think I want to use oem molded hoses for anything under the intake. ? got a quote today for replacing the water pump, new oem, rollers and belts for $1034. I want to leave that job to someone who really knows what they are doing.

Ga 951 · 02-07-2011, 07:16 PM

Quckster,
I'm In the middle of the same job myself. I would recommend replacing the heater hoses, cleaning the grounds on the back of the engine. Get the OEM molded hoses for all, will make life so much easier. The braided vacuum lines under the intake are NA from porsche, I was told they were Silicone and needn't be replaced. If it hasn't been mentioned, make sure the heater control valve is good. Easy to test if you pull the valve with the hoses.. simply manually open the valve and hold your finger over the vacuum port. If the valve holds, it is OK, it should close when you pull your finger from the vac port.

The ICV valve can be tested, see Idle Control Valve Testing - Porsche 951 - www.texasblake.com

With the heater hoses and vac hoses out of the way, there will never be and easier time to clean those grounds....unless the engine is out

Still a PITA!

I think the quote for the WP/ belts seems low if they are using a NEW WP.

I don't want to suggest you do something you don't feel capable of doing, but it you are this far in, the WP belts job is not that hard. Especially with the auto tensioner for the timing belt. I use the twist method myself with no problems. Once you get in there and know your way around, it's no big deal to keep a wary eye on the belts if you are that worried about them. I check mine annually, no big deal

GL,
Bruce

quickster · 02-10-2011, 05:39 PM

ok, thanks all for all the tips,
having the water pump, rollers and belts & radiator replaced next week, then i will do the coolant & vacuum hoses, I have access to a grease pit to get under the car if needed, will pull the intake off to rebuild the injectors and pull the air box and ic pipes, clean idle control valve & look for anything else under the intake , i still have the orginal alternator, should i get a kit for the brushes, I understand the heater control valve and hoses will be the hardest part,
thanks
quickster