No. That's because I needed to convert my DME from 24 pin socket to 28 pin socket when installing the Rogue Tuning A-tune. At the same time a jumper wire has to be soldered to the DME board to bypass the board memory as the 28 pin chip has all the memory stored in the chip (Whereas on 24 pin boards half of the memory resides in the board and half in the 24 pin chip.

I can use my old 24 pin chip on my DME even though it now has 28 a pin socket. But I do believe that necessitates cutting the added jumper wire. I am not too keen on doing that as I will have to get someone to solder it back on for me afterwards since I am not good enough at soldering to do that myself.

Can anyone confirm or reject the idea that the jumper has to be cut in order for the 24 pin chip to be able to start the engine?

Yes, you need to cut the jumper. Not a problem as you can cut it above the board. Then re-attach the split ends later with a little solder. Best to restore your car to stock condition to rule out any issues with non-stock modifications.

1. How is the MAP-sensor connected?

2. Just one clarification on the fuel-pressure. You did measure the pressure with the vacuum line disconnected? The intake-vacuum while cranking and under idle will drop fuel-pressure to much less than 3-bar under proper operating conditions with the vacuum line connected.

To really check speed/ref sensors, use and oscilloscope and compare the waveforms to the desired signals in the DME/KLR Test-Plan manual.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1395466975.gif
Would also be a good idea to go through the DME/KLR Test-Plan step-by-step.

I have been down with the flu the last couple of days. But today I have been able to make some more "progress".

The MAP-sensor is connected as per this image:
http://www.roguetuning.com/yahoo_sit...0058_large.png

I did not measure the fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected. I did however measure it with the engine off and a jumper in place of the DME-relay, forcing the fuel pump to run. During running, the fuel pressure was a steady 3 bar. I will get a hold of the fuel pressure test gauge once more as soon as possible, and then I will perform a more thorough fuel system pressure leakdown test to see wether or not I have a leakage, and if so to pinpoint if it is at the FPR, at the damper, at the pump check valve or the injectors.

Today I regap'ed the speed sensor gap with the method described on Clark's garage (Using an old sensor with a glued on 0,8mm washer). I scribed a line on the block to see where the sensor mount was placed before I readjusted. The mount was in the same spot after readjustment so I don't think I actually altered the position after all. So it seems my gap was were it should be all the time.

As soon as possible I will borrow a friends oscilloscope and check the actual signals from the recerence sensors, check the ignition trigger signals on the coil circuit, the ignition signal from DME to KLR, and the trigger signal from the DME. According to the instructions in the DME-KLR test plan.
http://arnnworx.com/DME_KLR_Test_Plan.pdf

The other things I tested today from the above test plan was:

- Ground points are good

- 12V supply to DME and KLR is good

- Spark plug gaps: 0,7mm

- Knock sensor resistance measured on DME-plug: 265 ohm. Spec is 270-330 ohm, but I would think 265 ohm is good enough?

- The ohm readings on NTCI and NTCII sensors were within spec.

- Idle speed contact and full load contact on TPS was within spec when measured on DME and KLR plugs respectively.

I also reinstalled the ICV today.

So next time I get some garage time, if I haven't gotten hold of the oscilloscope or fuel pressure tester by then, I will cut the jumper on the DME board and try to start the engine with the old chip. If no go, I will retest for vacuum leaks, and then continue with all other tests from the test plan that I can perform without the special tools.

I'm not familiar witih the A-Tune kit. Is the MAP-sensor used simultaneously with the stock AFM? The rich mixture is a clue.

1. verify MAP-sensor voltage output at idle. It should be standard 0-5v unit. Ask Joshua what output should be at idle. A vacuum leak going to the MAP-sensor would trick the DME into thinking you have more air-flow than actual. Thus the rich mixture. Measure vaccum at the hose going into MAP-sensor, it should be around 30 kPa at idle with warmed-up engine.

2. measure at vacuum at the line going into FPR while idling. It should be around 30 kPa and will drop fuel-pressure significantly under 3 bar at idle to about 2,1 bar. Since that vacuum line is T'd off the intake-manifold, there could be cracks in the vacuum Ts or leaks in any of the other lines going to KLR, fuel-dampener, EVAP valve. This can reduce vacuum at the FPR as well. Even a leaking hose going to the idle-valve or vacuum venturi can affect fuel-pressure too.

3. check FQS switch position on DME. It should be at #0 stock, fully anti-clockwise.


* for #1 & 2, use a vacuum-T to tap into nipple at FPR and MAP-sensor. This allows you to you measure actual vacuum going into devices without disconnecting them and interfering with their correct operation.

Thanks for the input. I haven't got the engine idling yet. As for now, I am reluctant to try to start it more often than necessary as I think multiple failed starts isn't very good for a rebuilt/never run engine? I will first recheck for vacuum leaks, verify a leak free fuel system, finish checking the wiring for shorts/breaks, and then I will try to start and at the same time check with an oscilloscope and check vacuum readings etc. When trying to start I will use the stock chip and disable the MAP-sensor by disconnecting the plug and put a jumper between the black and green wire.

However, as I have already checked for vacuum leaks once, I have found that all the small vacuum lines and fittings are fine. All vacuum lines, and all other hoses (To and from ICV, from brake booster etc) are brand new. The vacuum check valve is new, FPR, fuel damper, fuel hoses and fittings etc are new. All new silicone couplers, new intake boot, new hose from turbo to IC-pipe. The TB has been resealed with Arnworx's kit. The whole EVAP-system has been removed to simplify and make the engine bay cleaner. I have done the venturi delete, I have deleted the cycling valve etc. So the system has been greatly simplified and completely renewed, AND tested for vacuum leaks (Not tested again after ICV fix).

Yes, the MAP-sensor works in conjunction with the AFM. I have checked the signals going to and from the sensor with ignition on, as per Joshuas instructions. And it was spot on. Furthermore no vacuum leaks from the hose going to it.

Another possible source for the rich condition is leaking injectors (Which was suggested many days ago but which I haven't been able to check yet).

Today I rechecked for vacuum leaks. I removed the check valve to be able to test all of the vacuum system. Found that the connection to the vacuum canister just by the battery had fallen off. So this of course went back on. The ICV no longer leaks. I found a leak on the J-boot (Plugged outlet wasn't completely plugged) which I fixed. I even sprayed soap water on the connections inside the car (Going to the aftermarket boost gauge and KLR), no leaks here. Edit: I also found a leak on one of the connections going to the wastegate. This was also fixed. So now I am sure I have gotten all vacuum leaks away.

I removed the jumper on the DME, disconnected the MAP sensor, and tried starting the car (With the old chip). Still no go.

Today I checked the sensors with an oscilloscope. Both sensors gave satisfying signals according to the DME test plan. However, the speed sensor signal varied in amplitude in a pulsating fashion.

What is more, I later on the day found out that the speed sensor has connection to ground, something the reference sensor does not. I found this out by chance when checking the ground terminals on the DME and KLR connection plugs to verify good ground. I had one multimeter probe connected to the negative battery pole, and the other probe connected to the different pins on the plugs. I got the following readings:
2,3 Ohm on DME pin 27 (speed sensor)
883 Ohm on DME pin 8 (speed sensor)

What can cause this?

I first thought it had to do with the wiring harness, but when disconnecting the speed sensor from the harness the readings went away. I therefore proceeded to check directly on the speed sensor plug and keeping the other probe on battery negative. I then got the same readings as described above. This means the sensor itself shorts to ground. How is that possible? By the sensor touching the clutch bellhousing? The sensor is new, and the wiring on it is intact. I see no apparent errors with it or the way it is bolted to the sensor holder.. Ideas?

Lastly, today I for the third time had to swap the connections on the reference sensor and speed sensor to get it to try starting. Earlier I have always been certain I had the connectors on the correct way, but when there were no indication of running I swapped the connectors and got the firing I have described earlier (Sounds like the ignition timing is off). I assumed both times before that I had just connected wrong. Today however I checked time and again that I had the proper connectors going to the correct sensors. But I had to swap them to get the engine to attempt starting (As before).

HOW IS IT POSSIBLE that when the connectors are on as they should be, I get no firing at all. But when reversing the connections (Ie putting the reference sensor connector on the speed sensor and vice versa) I get firing and attempts to start? Has anyone experienced this before?
The fault is not in the wiring harness, because I have checked continouity on the wires today and verified that the pins on the DME plug corresponds with the sensor connectors on the other end of the harness. So again, the DME does not even try to start the engine with the sensors connected the way they should be. But when reversing, in other words letting the reference signal be sent to the speed signal input on the DME and vice versa, it tries to start in the fashion described since I started this thread....

Well, as it turned out it was the speed sensor that was the problem. Although brand new, it shorts to ground. A wire inside must be touching the outer metal casing. When I borrowed another sensor from a friend, the engine fired right up with no fuzz whatsoever! :-)

Leasons learned:
- Even brand new sensors can be bad
- Although "everyone" says the engine won't fire if the connectors for the flywheel sensors are reversed, it might just do that. That was indeed the case for me.
- A sensor can be bad even if it gives ok readings on a multimeter (resistance measurements) and an oscilloscope. The final check should then be wether or not the sensor has continuity with ground! (it should not if it is ok)

I kept track of your thread and good job sticking with this and figuring out the problem now go grab a beer.

awesome update. it's nice when someone figures it out, then follows up with the solution. grats!

Awesome, glad you got it figured out. Certainly was a tough one!

Thanks guys! :-)

Now I'm on vacation in Spain for three weeks. Great to get the engine sorted before I left. ;-)