Phase 7

[38D]

For replacing your front a-arm bushing, start by reading this link:

http://www.*****************.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/intructions.pdf (I believe these were originally created by Chris Walrod)

What I found was that the rubber would interfere with removal, so here's what I did differently:

I started on the large end and used a hole saw and just cut the whoel center section out.





One the rubber is out, I used the hacksaw to cut two slits in the bushing, being careful not to cut into the arm.



I found that with 2 slits, I could use the 1/4' chisel and hit in between the two cuts to create small section that peels away. One I had the peel started, I used a punch just like in the link. When using the punch, first get the biggest diameter you can find (mine wasn't really big enough). Then make sure the side of the punch is pressed against the wall of the arm. If you try to hold the punch off the wall, it will inevitably slip and you'll gauge the inside, which is why I know a used spare arm costs $135 from a salvage yard.



A bunch more hitting with a punch and the busing comes out pretty easy. btw, I used a small sledge rather than a regular hammer as I found it easier.



I did heat up the steel center on the small end



And used channel locks to pull the steel disks out



This leaves you with the rubber exposed. I cut off as much of the exterior rubber as possible.


I used a knife to cut out some of the interior rubber (didn't have the right size hole saw, though this would have worked better. Un like the link, I couldn't get my bushing to come "out". Instead, I did the same ting as before (cut 2 slits),and also cut 4-5 slits in the exterior flange. Then I punched both bushings through (ie one pushes the other out).


To install the monoball, I stuck the arms in the oven at 250 for 10 mins. You can then use a vise to press the cartridge in.

Add a few coats of paint, and you're done

[Bill Verburg]

Thanks! That'll help

[Bill Verburg]

Camber eccentrics, bolt & washer, this is the RS part w/ wider adjustment range

[mjshira]

great set of threads. what a car. wow. appreciate the help on the brake advice also. driving report?

[Bill Verburg]

The front
RS spec rubber bushes from Elephant



not too bad, but not real easy either. Once the oems were out the Elephants went in smoothly.

All work came to a screaching halt when it was discovered that the bushes for the Mode monoball require enlargement for use w/ JIC from ~14.6mm to 15mm, it's always something.

[Bill Verburg]

Got the bushes machined to fit the JIC shock rod, looking good







Now I need some feedback on KT using The Autometrics gauge, anyone?

[Bill Verburg]

As usual I didn't take the good advice given to me(Thanks again Colin!) but after a valiant struggle they old bushes did come out anyway


These are the bushes that had to have their inner diameter enlarged, the Mode monoball bushes come set up for Bilstein rod diameter ~14.6mm, JIC is ~15mm. It was nice of Smartracing to provide 2 sets so I now have a set for Bilstein and the modified set for JIC

[herman maire]

Bill,

I cant wait to hear some feed back on all your new suspension bits. Whats the weather like down there? You got to be able to go for a cruise now.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by herman maire

Bill,

I cant wait to hear some feed back on all your new suspension bits. Whats the weather like down there? You got to be able to go for a cruise now.

we've had a great spring down here, one of the best that I can remember.

Car is on the rack now, hopefully I'll be able to pick it up this PM.

[Bill Verburg]

First driving report is very favorable, to reiterate what was done
front
*RS spec rubber A arm bushes/replacing semi worn stock 993 rubber bushes
*Mode monoball/camber plate replacing JIC monoball/camber plate
*450#/in main springs replacing 390#/in main springs

Rear
*RS control arms replacing very worn stock control arms
*Smart Racing solid side mount bushes replacing stock 993 rubber side mount bushes
*672#/in main springs replaceing 560#/in main springs

f/r spring rate ratio goes from 0.7 to 0.67, for a little less native understeer
alignment
camber -2.5 all around
toe 0 front, .11 rear
KT 2 on the Autometrics gauge

It feels great for the first short drive I had. The shocks seem to like these springs better, nvh is no worse. Can't wait to get to a track

[Don Plumley]

Great! What a neat winter project.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Don Plumley

Great! What a neat winter project.

Yes, the suspension part was fun and worthwhile, I've got it too low now though, -10mm from last year and it won't even clear the tire stops on the trailer, it's got to go up ~15mm.

It does drive great!

Still pulling my hair out over the seats, w/ my long legs i'm having troubble getting the seats back far enough. I now see why many mount the Recaro brackets backwards. It just shouldn't be this complicated.

[Bill Verburg]

Pics @ 605mm front 625mm rear fender lip







no tire rub, I've already torn the overflow vents off the front splitter bottom,

the splitter won't even clear the wheel stop on the trailer.

[Bill Verburg]

After further driving all I can say is, What a great upgrade!!

The only other thing I might do is install Tarret toe links w/ locks if the oe start slipping

A friends w/ 993RS arms and Tarrets

[rickm993]

Bill,

I am installing the solid rear subframe mounts and am having the same problem you did with removal. The existing mounts are stuck solid. How did you manage to remove yours? Did you get the bottom off first and then push the top out? Any help appreciated.

Rick

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by rickm993

Bill,

I am installing the solid rear subframe mounts and am having the same problem you did with removal. The existing mounts are stuck solid. How did you manage to remove yours? Did you get the bottom off first and then push the top out? Any help appreciated.

Rick

You'll be very pleased when it's done.

Air chisels, once the bottom ones are out the tops are easier. Tilt the whole suspension unit to one side for clearance.

[Eric86Red911]

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg

...
no tire rub, I've already torn the overflow vents off the front splitter bottom,

the splitter won't even clear the wheel stop on the trailer.

Bill, did you check the specs when setting your ride heights? I ask because the workshop manual recommendations have the car angled up about 1-2 degrees, and yours is clearly angled down. And typically front wheel gaps are much larger than the rear when using the rec's. Just wondering about your reasoning here.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Eric86Red911

Bill, did you check the specs when setting your ride heights? I ask because the workshop manual recommendations have the car angled up about 1-2 degrees, and yours is clearly angled down. And typically front wheel gaps are much larger than the rear when using the rec's. Just wondering about your reasoning here.

????

If you set the car to factory specs the car will have a slight nose down attitude.

Mine is set to Cup car race specs( much lower than even RS), and yes it does have a nose down attitude, this is primarily an aid to aero characteristics

[rickm993]

thanks Bill. I will give the air chisel a try.

[Eric86Red911]

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg

????

If you set the car to factory specs the car will have a slight nose down attitude.

Mine is set to Cup car race specs( much lower than even RS), and yes it does have a nose down attitude, this is primarily an aid to aero characteristics

Oh my bad, for whatever reason I thought it was the other way around.