Unique alignment question…

[air-cool-me]

i have a 1967 911 that i bought late last year.

The basics:

2.7L with PMO
30% track\70%street
im an aggressive driver..
2500lbs
Im very comfortable with over-steer
Run Phoenix the most often.(read: everything from NASCAR turns to slow hairpins..)
Brakes with way to much front bias.
Need to put factory external oil lines on so space is a concern on the right rear.
Gard torque-bias diff

Here is my suspension setup
205/50/15 Toyo RA-1s
The front suspension and brakes are straight off a 85 the strut mounts are modified to the later 3 bolt adjustable.
22mm torsions in the front
Haven’t pulled the rears to check.
Bilstine(sp) sport shocks
Polyurethane suspension bushings throughout
Front and rear Elephant Racing adjustable sway bars ( set full loose in the front and 1\2 way in the rear)
Turbo tie rod ends
Later model Porsche steering rack (quicker ratio)
Bump steer kit
tilton adjustable brake bias knob



I have already done 3 track days(two on street tires one on toyos) with a mystery setup and it wandered at high speed a bit but overall I was happy.

I don’t know what to start with for ride height toe or camber..


Anyone want to offer any advice?

[Tyson Schmidt]

set the front up with as much negative as you can get. Usually -2.0 is about max, but if you can somehow get -2.25 or -2.5 then set it there.

In back shoot for .5 to 1.0 more negative than in the front. -2.75 would be a nice compromise. If you are able to get -2.5 up front, then run 3.0 to 3.2 in back.

For toe, 1/16th toe out in front, and 1/8th toe-in in the rear.

Caster, as much as you can get, and make them even.

Check your rear torsion bar sizes ASAP. Hopefully they are 28 or 29.

BTW, I hope you don't have polyurethane bushings on the rear control arm inners. Those do not work properly in that application. If you are running them, take them out ASAP and install monoballs.

[Randy Blaylock]

Agree 100% with the above, and look for 1.5 to 2 degrees rake at whatever ride height you find works best. Don't go too low or you'll have a bump steer issue that's tough to resolve, and a less than optimal camber curve in the rear.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

A little bit of toe-in at the front will help keep the car from feeling as "wander-y" at high speeds, at the expense of it not wanting to turn-in as well at low speeds. Generally appropriate for a street car, not so much for a track car.

--DD

[cstreit]

I'll second (or is it third) Tysons alignment suggestions. That's a great aggresive setup. You will eat tires but it'll handle great on the track. If you want to moderate a bit, try 0 toe in the front, and take out 1 degree of negative camber on both ends.

[air-cool-me]

Thanks guys!

I will Check my rear torsion bar sizes and look to see if i have polyurethane bushings on the rear control arm inners.

"Don't go too low" whats too low? I don't plan on going super low... but im just curious as to when it starts to work against you.

thanks again guys... i have a track day in the 24th and i will let you know what I end up with and what my (pretty amateur) opinion is.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

If the front A-arms are level with the pavement, you are either too low or right on the edge. When the outer end of the arm is above the inboard end, you start losing camber--which is not exactly what you want to happen on the outside tire...

Not sure about the trailing-arms that the 911s use.

--DD