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Me like track days
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 10,209
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Window net - I 'searched' but.......what setup should I use?
Interested in keeping full use of arms and hands in case the big one happens -
If it matters, the 930 has a full cage, one diagonal door each side bar going hi/lo from rear/front. ![]() ![]() ![]() Which window net setup (and where from)should I be looking at that fits a 911/930 with this cage? Much thanks, guys -
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- Craig 3.4L, SC heads, 964 cams, B&B headers, K27 HF ZC turbo, Ruf IC. WUR & RPM switch, IA fuel head, Zork, G50/50 5 speed. 438 RWHP / 413 RWTQ - "930 is the wild slut you sleep with who tries to kill you every time you "get it on" - Quote by Gabe Movie: 930 on the dyno |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 2,466
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A good friend of mine uses on his early 911 race car and recommends... http://www.*****************.com/product_p/f5_911driver.htm
I don't have the need for one yet. But, will likely go this route when I do. - Skip
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1972 911T 1972 911E "RSR" |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 4,870
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I like the springloaded style myself, no seat belt latches to smack your head on when climbing in and out of the car. It needs to be welded in:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=200,56,363_1238&action=product can be used w/ just about any net http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=200,56,363_1237&action=product |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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For a street car, I like the Force 5 style net sold by Paragon (and others, I am sure). Quick to install for the race weekend, and quick to remove for every day driving. PCA doesn't "approve" any product as far as I know (and I think I would know), but PCA will accept a door mounted window net as long as it can be removed quickly and easily from outside the car without having to use a knife or other tool (should the door not open).
Other racing venues (SCCA in particular) will not accept mounting the net to the door, for fear the door will fly open just when you most need the net. With a full cage, as you have, it isn't all that hard to mount one to the cage. I like the spring loaded style Cory mentions, and for the reasons he mentions. It looks like there is enough room between your bars and the A and B pillars that you can weld in the upper mounts. In my case, the bars were so close I didn't want to weld after the upholstry was back in, so I fabricated mounts that are held on with two hose clamps per mount. You can hold the bottom flat bar down with nylon straps around your door bar. Weld on some bent thick wire so the straps can't move around (especially on that angled bar). You can (I hope) see where I did this if you look closely. ![]() In fact, since I drive my full caged SC on the street, I took special pains to locate the front upper mount in a place even my pointy head couldn't reach (my bars are padded, which I figure is no worse than having the unhelmeted head hit the unpadded chassis). Speaking of padding, you should purchase four or five sticks of it. Get the very hard foam C shaped ones, about $18 per stick. Do not use the soft squishy stuff (about $5 ea) anywhere your head might hit. Install it on the bars above the doors, on the top piece of the front hoop, and on the front down tubes. It is held on with self-adhesive once the protective tape is removed, and then secured in place with some tie wraps. This stuff is basically just like helmet padding - it absorbs energy by crushing, and slows the rate of decelleration of the brain. The soft stuff is easier on your unhelmeted head when getting into and out of the car, but when called upon to do its job it will just split. I am guessing from your setup that this is a DE car, and not for racing. But no matter - your head won't know the difference if the big one hits. Nice looking car. Walt Fricke |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 1,367
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Haven't really seen may of the spring loaded ones in use but, but I like the idea. Is the spring stiff enough that there's really not much chance of top bar coming loose?
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Diego
Posts: 4,870
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recently completed a rollcage for a buddies 911S racecar and used the spring style window net. He provided the net and hardware, the HRP net kit I linked to above is a little nicer and lighter in my opinion but either one gets the job done. I think it is easier to get the net in place with the springloaded style, and you can tuck the brackets into the corners so you don't hit your head or snag your clothes on them.
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 915
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I see where it's attached to 3 points on the cage but what is the 4th point attached to on the door panel? Is there a little flange of metal coming out of the door panel that the rod goes through? I didn't think some sanctioning bodies would allow attachment to the door.
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Gone 92 C2 82 Euro SC race car 993 C4S 3.8 84 Euro Carrera |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 763
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I recently posted a similar question here window net attachment
Based on those responses and some further discussion with other racers and my mechanic I decided to go with the springloaded attachment with a mesh style net.
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1964 356 C 1970 911T 1974 914 2.0 1986 Carrera Spec911 race car #76 1990 Carrera 2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 915
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Does that mean it flaps in the wind a lot?
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Gone 92 C2 82 Euro SC race car 993 C4S 3.8 84 Euro Carrera |
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no
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisville, KY
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OK I was at the cage builder's today and we are going to use Cory's cable idea. This will allow the lower bar of the window net to fall below the level of my cage door bars when not in use so that when I sit on the bars to get into the car I won't sit on the net bar. Hopefully he will get it nice and snug so it won't flap around in the wind. I will post some pics when it's all done. Thanks Cory.
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Just remember that for RACING, it needs to be attached to the roll cage, the one Paragon sells is only for DE, AX, Rally ,etc as stated in the ad.
Mine is attached with a seat belt on the bottom, and a spring loaded rod on the top. I can take the whole thing out if I want. I do have to make one small mod before racing again, They want them to drop down now. So I'll weld a small tab to act as a handle to make the top easier to manipulate. I always unclipped the latch on the bottom and layed it up on the roof after opening the door. I found it was easier to push the net down then to lift it up when making the final attachment from in the car.
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John Snodgrass 1973 Porsche 911 "Barney" (race car for sale) 2008 Nissan Maxima - Daily Driver 1999 F350 Diesel Crew Cab - Tow Beast 1990 Airstream 36' Land Yacht - Home Away From Home |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisville, KY
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OK we scratched the cable idea. He's going to fab an L-shaped piece for the lower bar to attach to. I'll post pics when it's done...
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Gone 92 C2 82 Euro SC race car 993 C4S 3.8 84 Euro Carrera |
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Louisville, KY
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OK here it is.
Picture #1: Astroman tries to think of a way to sabotage my car... ![]() ![]()
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Gone 92 C2 82 Euro SC race car 993 C4S 3.8 84 Euro Carrera Last edited by ninesixfour; 02-08-2009 at 10:50 AM.. |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
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A Danny Puchalski original design. Looks great!
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Jack E class '87 911 |
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