Tampa Florida is where the car is. I spend 50% of the year in Asia and now am in Shanghai for the next 2~3 months. I will come home in May for the second phase of my build. I only had 4 weeks home during my last trip and spent 2 weeks getting the engine put together and in the car.

I have the Carerra oil cooler and fan in the Carrera location, and it's just enough cooling in the summer time here. (My car is a 76 with an 85 3.2). If you go that route, then you will still have room up front for a radiator if in fact you are forced that way.

The other thing about a fender mounted oil cooler is that it increases oil capacity, and those LS motors do not like oil starvation at all. There are a lot of trick, baffled, trap-doored oil pans out there for those engines to make sure they always have good oil pressure. An accumulator is also good insurance against oil starvation.

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Here is a picture if the fuel system. i went with a returnless fuel rail using the stock fuel filter with built in accumulator from a vette. Fuel pressure is maintained at 57psi. I used fuel clamps and slipped the fuel hose over the stock lines with about 5" overlap. Did not see any fuel leaks and will need to monitor. I did see other post of users doing this and would be interested to get feedback if there was ever problems.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236487495.jpg

I also decided that during my build I was going to remove the stock LS1 PCV system and replace it with an oil catch can and replace the stock valley cover with a newer 2007 version that has the PCV system built in. It cost me less than $100 to do this and I was able to eliminate several hoses and keep it simple.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236487935.jpg

Had not thought of this, that is the great thing about this forum it is a think tank of information and experience.

This is a very cool build!

I am thrilled to see that another member is attempting this build. Thanks for posting!

I just purchased a '78 turbo bodied roller from another member on here and I spoke to Scott at RH last week. I will be tackling this same project (with a few variations in engine setup) later this year.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted!!!

Here is a shot of the water pump and flexible radiator hose. The flex hose provides just enough movement for the trunk hood to open and close. There is a slight bit of strain on the hose coupling and I am looking for an alternative hose cause I feel over time this may weaken so I am keeping my eye open for a 2" S coupling that is 3~4 ply. The hose coupling I am using now is from an STI radiator hose kit that was sitting around my garage, would probably work but I am not 100% confident.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236518241.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236518277.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236518306.jpg

I can't get over how the engine "just fits" the 911 engine bay. It's almost like it was made for a V8. (flame suit on) I love my air cooled 911 but this is intriguing for many reasons.

I've hear rumours that the successor to the 997 may have a V8 out the back instead of a flat 8... I'll guess we'll see soon enough but if Porsche goes to a V8 then these conversions will be seen in an entirely new light :cool:

+1

I too am amazed. The engine looks so much taller than the flat six.

Must be hard to put down the project for months at a time. But I guess that affords you more time to draw up your plans.

Build looks really sweet..good luck with it..can't wait to see it when its done.

Incredible , simply incredible !!!!!

What a job !!!

put me down for a subscription.

Looks good. I am afraid of your radiator hoses though. Those probably cannot withstand being opened and closed much. I don't think they will like being twisted up when hot and could let go and really burn someone. You should think of a safer and better way to do it. Off the top of my head I have a couple ideas but not sure they are any better.

Me likey!!

Todd, very nice build you have going. When I was looking at your cooling system, an idea popped into my head which I will try to elaborate on. Instead of using the flex pipes to make it possible to open and close the decklid, I think it would be trick to use Hydraulic 90° Swivels mounted below each hinge. These are used with hydraulic machinery and withstand something like 3000psi so that wouldnt be a concern. I'm not sure what size coolant hoses you are using, but they can make the swivels in any size I would guess. I found a few on ebay, the one in the pic below is 1" diameter.
http://i13.ebayimg.com/08/i/001/29/07/f0cb_1.JPG
If you attached a 90° elbow to that it would be 180° and would swivel as the decklid was opened or closed. Then throw some nipples on the end to mate up with the coolant lines you already have and it would be a pretty effective solution. The swivels themselves would probably need a small bracket attached to the outboard decklid hinge area to keep them stationary. Heres the link for the auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-HYDRAULIC-HOSE-SWIVEL-90-DEG-ELBOW_W0QQitemZ260342492915QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPneu matic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts?_trksid=p3286.m20.l11 16
This would probably take some trial and error to perfect but would achieve something great.

I admire your courage and abilities to take on such a project.

After reviewing different intakes and HP gains I went with a typhoon aluminum intake and larger throttle body.

Chevy LS looks great in there. I was told that an LS intake can be reversed and it will still bolt to the motor. Any truth in that statement. Would get the air intake away from the firewall.