Sweet. This build makes me wanna move forward with my plans to slip an LS1 into my VW Rabbit.

wj

Call me cranky, but this is a technical forum, and all the one or two line post-padding is clogging up a good thread. "Awesome", or "subscribed", doesn't add anything to the discussion. I'm all for being witty or positive and encouraging, but it's getting kind of silly around here.

Back on topic. Are you getting the modified gauges through Scott?

To clarify, JackMan wants to put a V8 in the back seat of his already tricked-out VW Cabrio. Seriously. Think Renault R5 Turbo...convertible.

Sounds like a LOT of work to change a 4 cyl front-engine FWD car into a V8 mid-engine RWD car. But it would be way cool!

Ok, you're cranky!:D No offense, but coming in here with 21 posts and being critical of how this forum and specifically this thread is forming seems a bit much.

Nice build, it will be interesting to see the finished product!

Bigger is not always better, the stock LS1 intake is a better fit and can be reversed with no problem. I had went with the larger intake and throttle body and had a very tight fit. This was solved with a little cutting and a hammer to flatten down the edge.

If I could do it over I would have purchased an LS6 intake. Equal gains in HP to the Typhoon and would probably fit 10X better

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236563220.jpg

The hardest part is picking up where I leave off. This is another reason for me posting this build is to get feedback and suggestions on the cooling system. I have had a couple of Ideas and fellow Pelicans are already scratching there heads and providing valuable input.

Good new is I may need to return to Florida in April so maybe I can get the project finished up then.

I am using the sender units from RH to tie into the factory gauges and as a backup plan I have bought a 4-in-1 gauge for the tach that includes a second set of sender units. It fit perfectly into the stock location and looks pretty sexy :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236564046.jpg

cool project

Couple of thoughts have been running thru my mind about how to do the coolant lines to the radiator. Although I think the current setup will work the idea of the trunk lid opening and closing over time will develop a weak line and it is possible that it will leak.

Has anyone ever used or worked with -16AN or -20AN Fiber braided lines? I am curious to know how flexible they are? I see several of these NASCAR braided lines being sold on Fleabay for pretty cheap and was thinking they may out last my current idea. Plus I could have the fittings welded to the radiator and not have to use hose clamps :)

Second thought was if these lines could be used would -16AN be able to flow enough coolant thru the radiator effectively? I imagine -20AN lines would be no problem but are probably less flexible.

Anyway, interested to hear some feedback on this idea.

Here are some pics and link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-XRP-fiber-Braided-Dry-Sump-Oil-Line-Hydraflow_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c 66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7 c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem180334075846QQitemZ180334075846QQptZRaceQ5fC arQ5fParts

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236687470.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1236687488.jpg

Very intrigueing project. I am most intrigued by the extra hood shock could you give details on this, mounting location, part number for shock used, ETC. Contact speedo about the braided hose he used it for his oil system.

This looks to be a well thought out build, but I have a real concern over that radiator set up. Specifically, won't having the radiator on it's side induce a substantial amount of air into the system unless you can come up with some means of removing all the air out of the radiator? Seems like you will have to have a high point in the system with a bleed valve to prevent this.

is there such a thing as a dry sump sb chevy?

There are a ton of aftermarket dry sump setups out there for sbc race motors. The only factory GM dry sump motor that I am aware of is the C6 Z06.

yes dry sumps have been around on the sbc for years...but as someone who has had a converted car for years..alot ot these ideas are just things in the way. my oil cooler is mounted in the passengenger backseat area suitably enclosed and vented to the underside of the car and is fed cooling air through two three inch naca ducts in the quarter panel popout window. my radiator is in the front. rubber hoses and a mezziere remote electric water pump are easy to install as well as the front mounted radiator. helps a bit with weight distribution, especially when running an all aluminum engine. i still think that a 930 gearbox is the way to go especially if you want 500 horsepower and then be able to use it...otherwise you end up with power but a bit timid about turning it on! my 71 rs lookalike has an all aluminum 434 sbc with mass flo efi and dynoed at almost 600 chp. the renegade hybrids radiator set up does work well. cannot imagine opening the engine compartment and sticking my head in underneath a 210 to 240 degree radiator!

This setup might require cutting out a bit of the crossmember or using the smaller TB. The engine is going to want to move around a little bit, unless its on solid mounts.

Good thought, however, with a movable radiator mount, you should be able to bleed it and fill with the deck lid open?

This is a cool project!
What is the weight delta between the v-8 and a 3.6 or 930 motor?

Doug

rh makes a 90 degree for this situation. not sure of flow potential especially with high horsepower.

Flexibility of AN lines depends on the material of the hose, the fabric or Kevlar hoses are generally more flexible than true stainless. Assuming the hoses you have now are the Cool Flex brand you should be ok. The AN solution may look a little cleaner and the hydraulic swivel idea is intriguing but Cool Flex hoses are high quality and very durable. You should be able to open the engine cover for years without issue.

Nice!---just a thought,---you might consider crossing the radiator hoses over,L-to R at the rad. You may have to use angle fittings ,out of the radiator but the extra hose length and the ,"across the bay",flow
may be less stressful on the hose bending? altho the hose might not like that much axial
movement but the swivel fittings would take care of that---Make sense?
Apologies for the Art work!

http://hl.onlinestuffs.com/uploads/o...h/cd/ae/rw.jpg

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