PM'd

As for oil control...don't forget the fact that these engines are mounted backwards! Instead of using the traditional rear-sump oil pans, use a front-sump pan like the one that comes from the "Supper Caddies." That way upon acceleration, the oil has a better chance at staying near the oil-pickup tube.

Matter-of-fact, Improved Racing has a great baffled and gated pan that may work for you. It's designed for Holdens which require a front sump:

Improved Racing Holden LS1 Front-Sump Road Race Oil Pan & Baffle - 6.5 Quarts

Here's a picture of one...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275356587.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275356612.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275356637.jpg

Braking will generate more Gs than acceleration even in this beast so I'm not convinced the rear sump (as installed in a 911) is an advantage. Baffles are a good thing though.

Update:
New engine is in the car.. 2nd time around and I was able to get the engine partailly assembled and raised into the car in less than 4 hours. without the oil pan and using my jack stand mounted accross the cradle works great.

Still waiting for my Lingenfelter 58x to 24x reluctor wheel conversion box along with my LS2 front cover and cam sensor which will hopefully show up before the weekend.

Here are a couple of pre install shots.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275435259.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275435296.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275435320.jpg

As far as my split air filter idea, unfortunatly it will not clear my radiator :mad:. I could possibly cut down the MAF and filter assembly if I really wanted to make it work but I think I will stick with my original fender mounted filter and piping.

for the rest of you LS1 conversion guys that need an intake setup I will let this one go for $150 shipped. Should not be an issue for the front mount radiator setups. I do like the look and imagine it will work pretty damn good having the air filters on both sides of the intake.

First picture is without the MAF and second is with the MAF

My loss your gain..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275435692.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275435725.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275435741.jpg

I agree with you that braking does generate more Gs. But the engine RPMs are also in a deceleration mode...most of the time (especially if we're talking a street vehicle). On the other hand, while accelerating, you're more likely to be spinning-up the RPMs much higher and will be in a much more oil deprived situation versus braking. I'd choose a front-sump as the lesser of two evils. ;)

As for this build...Todd you're the man! I love what you're doing and the progress you're making. I'm inspired and am watching and learning from you as you go so that it'll be easier on me as I do my own conversion. Can't wait to see it all unfold.

1 week away from getting to start the LS2 engine. The front cover and CAM sensor was back ordered at GM but shows up at my door on Wednesday :D

The Lingenfelter 58X to 24X reluctor box did however show up before the weekend so I was able to finish all the electrical connections and add high temp look to all wires.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275874430.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275874464.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275874489.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275874509.jpg

Hey Todd, I just signed up for Holley's LS Fest in Bowling Green, KY. Three days of all things LS powered. My car is not 100% ready, but it will be by September. They even have a
'non-domestic' category for the likes of us.

Don't make me be the only LS powered 911 on the track :)

Mike

Its Alive!! and just in time for fathers day :)

I still have some testing of the radiator to do but I was able to drive around the block and the coolant temps seems to stay steady at 198~199F while driving and in idle. Considering that the outside temps in Tampa today were 96F my first impressions are good. I need to do some research on LS1 Tech to determine what these engines like to see for the coolant and oil temps.

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Happy Father's Day! Glad to hear that engine roar! I couldn't wait for the next post and arriving today was a nice surpise! I'm hoping to do the same with my 89 911 Carrera and G50 Tranny up here in NY. I'm new here and really like that rear radiator! Good luck in your 90+ weather. Please give us the details in the next few days on how the engine and heat/cooling is working! Congrads!

Yan

Getting great feedback on the forums and plan to drain the current radiator fluid/ water mix to measure how much fluid my system holds. Also going to re-fill with distilled water and Dexcool and do a couple of different test. I did decide to add an adjustable thermostat to give me more control over the fan on temps, currently coming on around 180F. I hard wired it so that the fans continue to run when the car is turned off, only runs for a couple of minutes so no worries on killing the battery

First test: 20min idle time while sitting in the garage with no incoming air. Fan's pulling in air and pushing over the intake and engine. Temp range after heated up was 198~205F. Average coolant temp after warmed up stayed at 200F.

I think I will get better results by reversing the fans to take heat out of the engine compartment. The fans are defiantly pushing some air and I can feel plenty of heat being drawn thru the radiator.

Unfortunately I have business travel in Europe over the next 2 weeks so have to put the project on hold again until I get back.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1277232553.jpg

Hey Todd...I may be wrong about this, but I don't think wiring the fans to blow out is a good idea. The Turbo Porsche is designed to draw air into the engine compartment at speed. Remember, it was originally designed for an air-cooled engine w/intercooler.

Also, there's possibly a low pressure area beneath the car, so blowing air "OUT" might not even be possible...especially at speed. This would only exacerbate the situation and cause the water temps to rise since no air will be traveling over the radiator fins.

I may be off-base about this...someone chime in and give their opinion.

That was my first thought also, but figured he would try it and figure it out-may not be able to achieve high enough speeds on county roads to matter..........

There is the concern that the incoming air flow from the top could cause negative resistance on the fans when blowing out. Guess I will need to determine what the less of the two evils are. Probably not relying on the fans is the best solution so the heat can rise naturally and out of the engine compartment.

Todd,
That's a beautiful thing! I'm watching your conversion carefully as I plan on starting my LS1 swap in to my 89 Cab in the fall. I've got my long block and the Edelbrock/MSD carb'ed conversion ready to go but I had one quick question, what oil pan did you end up going with?

No updates: Been on business travel and vacation the past 3 weeks and head to Shanghai on Wednesday.. Plan of attack when I return is to shroud the radiator, add a bigger oil cooler to increase capacity and cooling.

I did however take the car for a spin to the gas station and the coolant temp remains steady at 200F with the fans coming on around 190F.

OK could not wait 2 weeks till I return from Shanghai and decided to move forward with shrouding the radiator. Went to Home Depot this morning and purchased a piece of sheet metal 24"X24" and a good pair of tin snips :D

The results were surprising and actually lowered the operating temperatures by 5 degrees. Outside temps in Tampa today around 94F and with the car parked in the garage idling for 20min the coolant temps remained at 195F with no overheating.

Following the addition of the radiator shroud I have taken 3 test drives for 10min each time and under regular driving conditions the temp raises to around 200~205.

During my 2nd and 3rd test drive I decided to see what she had a did a quick launch till 50MPH and damn could I feel the 400+ HP... The power acceleration in these motors are awesome and so smooth.. The sound of the exhaust and air being sucked into the intake filter is not like a Vette, Camaro or any other V8 I have herd, a very unique sound for a unique car..

2 Problems noted:
(1) Rear Suspension dips entirely to much under accelerating. Not a bad problem to have when you start reaching 400+ HP. I also noticed my rear end had dropped about 1" from the additional weight so coilovers may be my solution to aid the extra weight and dips at take-off.

(2) 1st gear tranny hop :confused: The Kevlar clutch is taking some time to get a feel for and if I do not time it just perfect I get a bad shake/hop. Starting out in 2nd seems to work much better. Hopefully once the break-in period is completed this will go away or become much easier. I remember on my 300+ HP Miata having a un-sprung Kevlar disk and it was a B*%CH to drive..

Here are some pics of the shroud work..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278987895.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278987915.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278987936.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278987953.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278987966.jpg

todd, need to get rid of the kevlar clutch. you do not need that for 400 hp. call monty at kep and he can fix you up...no affiliation. i am certain that lots of others can recommend a better clutch surface for street use.

you should get more than 400 hp with a LS1 and a LS6 intake. Too bad the exhaust is soo restrictive. My roommate has a LS1 that puts 420 to the wheels and is not built very strong. Those motors and monsters.

It's cool to see this in the works.

How long has it taken you with how much work? i.e. "6 months, 10 hoursevery weekend."

My first post was 3/7/2009 and the LS2 motor is my 2nd engine to install so it is hard to say the amount of hours. I also spend 75% of my time on the road and in China so I spent more time planning than executing. At most I spent 1 weekend each month and had parts and plans waiting.

I am having 2nd thoughts on my exhaust and thinking of dropping the 2 side mufflers and keeping the X-over muffler or dropping the X-over and keeping the side mufflers. Still undecided but think having a set of test pipes made to go straight from the manifold into the X-over would have the most power gains but also more expensive to have fabricated. Dropping the X-over and running tips out the back would be pretty cheap and easy to do.

I think you'll find it too loud if you run just the side mufflers, and you'd loose the x-over funtion as well. That big muffler was designed for V8 resonance, and should sound awesome by itself.

You're getting close...

Here's an idea. Take a Corvette C5 exhaust and switch the positions of the mufflers from left to right. Butt-weld the mufflers back to back and it looks and works almost like a traditional 911 exhaust, but is designed for the LS motors.

Here's a photo mock-up of what I'm describing:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279730468.jpg

What was the reluctor wheel converter for? LS1 electronics and an LS2 engine?

edit: awesome that its running, how could I forget to mention that... I'm close to beginning work on fabbing my engine cradle. I've got my entire front end completed and am going to start work on the back :-D

My original setup and harness was for an LS1 so when I dropped in the LS2 I did not want to change the harness and sensors so I went with he reluctor wheel conversion and modified some sensors (Knock, CAM Sensor)

Biggest problem I have now is to much HP and torque causing my rearend to bottom out when accelerating :)

In a couple of weeks I will be adding rear coil overs and a larger oil cooler.

Post some pics of your cradle and install, curious to see what it looks like.

EFI intake
 

I've been watching with great interest over the last few months the progress some of you guys are making. I'm finishing up the bodywork on my '74 coupe and then will be ready to do my LS2 conversion. I'm going with RH and a front radiator.
I had to take a break from a long summer of sanding to at least trial fit my engine and I wanted to share the success I've had with my choice of intake. I've got the Edelbrock pro flow XT EFI manifold on my LS2 ( part #71403). It easily clears the oil pressure boss so no need for modification there. I've also got the original 90mm throttle body and am using Specter Performance's elbow ( Part #9781). I'm very happy with this setup, not even close with any clearance (of course I'm running a rear spoiler as the manifold sticks out of the lid)
Time to take the motor back out and finish sanding the body (that's why everything in my pictures are covered with dust) Will have paint soon then can finish my mechanicals.
I want to thank shanghai_todd, mbaran, Rebel911, mkingham, and bunch of other guys on this forum who have helped me plan this project. I'll start my own thread when I have a little more to offer. Thanks againhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285041031.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285041068.jpg

Well Played, can not wait to see more. If I were to do it all over again I think I would have looked at other intake options as well. Some of the Victor Jr intakes with the throttle opening in the middle would be interesting to work with.

Where do you plan to put the air filter and what size you going with?

I'm probably just going to run it down the right side near where the oil tank used to be. Haven't decided on size yet but the tubing is 4". I'm impressed with the quality of Spectre's stuff. Just buy the pieces I need, mush less expensive then some of the cold air kits I've seen. They also have a MAF sensor tube and filter housings

re:Intake
 

Be careful with intake choices.

I went with edelbrock intake and holley carb on my 5.3.

A 14" air cleaner with a 2" filter and a drop base will fit, but there is no room
for the a/c condenser.

I have wondered whether it would have been worth the electronics hassle
of FI to save the A/C issues.

I put my condenser in the front, but am having trouble with a/c performance and cooling system performance when it gets above 95 or so.

I'm presently mocking up a custom air cleaner so I can fit another condenser in the engine lid to supplement the front condenser. The front condenser is currently 16x24, so I may consider a smaller one to aid with cooling , depending on how much condenser I can put in the engine lid.

Regards,
Ken

Ken and Becky Dibble Homepage

ls conversion
 

LSXFan mentioned the front sump pan as used on the gto. i am in the process of specing out the motor for my conversion and wish to use the front sump...are there further opinions or do any of you guys see any difficulty with the front sump?

I've got a front sump GTO pan on the LS1 that's going into my project. If it was a C5 Vette, all you need is a Pan, Pickup, and Dipstick tube. If it's an LS1 from a F-Body, you also need a new windage tray and Dipstick.

it will be a modified LS7 drive by wire motor.

Front sump
 

I don't think the front sump pan won't work with the RH engine cradle. Rear sump no problem

thanks rotornut. do any of you guys with conversions know> maybe a picture from the side of engine with a clear view of the front of the pan rail relative to the cradle would help! can anyone perhaps snap a pic? by the way, i started on my conversion today...bought the Z06 fuel filter/pressure regulator for the deadheaded fuel rails...only cost 50 dollars at O'Reillys.

GTO Front Sump
 

I cannot use it on mine, but it may be possible on other conversions. I came up about a 1/2" short with clearance of the cradle. I've got a long bell 930 gearbox. I've already done my "final fitting" of gearbox and engine into the car and the cradle is "set". I don't have any more room to move the engine towards the front of the car. Someone using a short bell 930 or 915 box might have that clearance. The first picture is of the GTO front sump pan. You can see the little bump out in the pan that is almost out to the center line of the bolt holes. The second pic is looking at the bottom of the engine from an angle from the rear. The third is my cradle from directly overhead. If when you get your cradle position finalized (if you're using RH) and inside edge of the cradle lines up outside the center line of the bolt holes it will work. Hope this helps
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288470516.jpg

GTO Front Sump
 

GTO Front Sump
 

rotornut, thanks for posting the pics. i just do not like the idea of the oil running away from the rear sump under hard acceleration at high rpms. have any of you guys looked into the feasibility of using the dry sump in conjunction with the porsche oil tank?

Fron sump pan
 

Same reason I wanted to try it. I might look into adding an accumulator