Does anyone know if I can delete the VSS from my LS1 ECM? Does the speed sensor in the porsche trans stand alone? Does it use a body control module? I'm about to get my ECM flashed and any info would be helpful.
Thanks,
Lee

well the interior is coming along..just a few more odds and ends and a nice set of coca mats. i bought a quick release for the steering wheel. but, there is not enough depth to the steering wheel adaptor to allow me to use my horn button. i will have to have a one half inch spacer made in order to use the fitti horn button. oh well ! all in all i think that i will be pleased with the lightweight interior..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310227306.jpg
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i have been working on the car but had a couple of issues. car cranked on first attempt and runs fine. considering all the wiring and gauge replacement and drive by wire throttle i was very pleased and maybe a bit surprised.one small leak from a valve cover gasket and a leaking water line...not clamped tight enough. but, could not get the clutch to release properly. pulled the motor and trans and regreased the guide tube and ensured all was well in side the bell housing. installed a new clutch cable and still not quite right. pulled the pedal cluster and the nylon bushings on the clutch release arms were worn considerably. ordered a bronze bushing kit frpm stoddard and just finished rebuilding the pedal cluster and reinstalling it. will make hopefully final adjustments to the clutch and hargett shifter tomorrow......i had a spacer machined so that i could use the fitti porsche horn button with the quick release steering wheel mechanism purchsed from dave at TRE. worked out just right and added another one-half inch to the quick release hub which added three-fourths of an inch for a total of 1.25 inches.

pic of the cab with steering wheel finished and in place. gauge package worked out well and anxious to check out the GPS speedometer. oops not quite finished in this picture. i replaced the socked head screw.s with button head screwshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1311535985.jpg

just about ready for the time being. still will probably redo the sport seats in the original perforated centers and solid vinyl bolsters. work to be completed on the ventilation system. rebuilt the pedal cluster using bronze bushings, new clutch cable and set to factory adjustment specs...but the clutch is still dragging slightly. only been around the block a couple of times and hopefully will loose just that final little bit?? i may have to retune the sensitivity of the drive by wire accelerator pedal...maybe once i start driving i will adjust. oh well still lots of small things but by and large the car should be ready!! a couple of pics in street trim...the flowmaster hushpower pro series muffliers sound really good at idle and slow speed... now if i could just afford a nice set of work meister five spoke wheels...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312374511.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312374629.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312374758.jpg

A real beauty! You have done an amazing job! Years of fun ahead!

thanks yan. that is one of the strong points of the conversion...ls7 parts are plentiful and fairly inexpensive and lots of ls expertise available, and an engine compartment that allows access for most maintenance!and a really simple engine compartment for 700 chp.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1312382834.jpg

I can't agree more. My 89 911 LS1 might not have 700 chp but 1/2 of that is pretty fun to drive.! I have been trying to figure out a stalling issue when the clutch is depressed. RH says it is because of the light flywheel. The only thing is that it doesn't happen all the time? Have you had any issues with the stalling? Anyone else - chime in...

thanks!

yan, does it stall when you press the clutch in or stall when you let it out? the mast motorsports ecu has a safety wire for the clutch when cranking. the switch must be grounded when the car is to be started. i changed to an on-off switch and placed the switch in a non visual place and i use as an anti theft deterrent..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Have fun passing the 'purists' on the track.

Stalling happens when you press the clutch in. It could happen when you are coming to a stop and press the clutch in and hold it in. If you are quick with the clutch and then into neutral it won't stall. If you raise the idle mechanically to about 900 rpm that is usally enough to keep the car from stalling. The stalling doesn't happen all the time. When it is happening - it keeps happening. The odd thing is that it only started happening about a month ago.

thanks again,

Yan

I have this problem with every GM V8 conversion I've done, which is quite a few at this point. You need a VSS to stop this. Do you have your check engine light hooked up? If not you should, and it should be off.

These guys make some conversion VSS sensors that work very well.

V-8 Vehicle Speed Sensors (VSS), Speedometers, V8 Conversions, Stealth Conversions

The check engine light is not hooked up. Do other guys have a VSS hooked up on their ls1/7 conversions? Does the LS1 have an output for check engine?

thanks!

The check light comes off the same harness as the ADL connector, the light is +12v and then grounded by the ECU to light. If you don't have an ADL or a light it's going to be difficult to tell if you're ever running correctly.

I've seen a lot of people try and get by without using all of the sensors and they always have odd running conditions or, "something not quite perfect" about their conversion.

The transplant should run as perfectly as the donor vehicle it was removed from. There are sensor solutions out there for every piece of these conversions.

My check engine light wire is connected to the alternator light in the instrument cluster. I do know that everything was working great for a while so I am thinking it is not a VSS issue or it would have always turned up. There is too much lateral movement outside of the specs with the crank. That may be a bearing issue and could cause similar symptoms.

:(

i have a check engine light in my conversion with the mast ecu.

Hi,
Amazing, Amazing!

Very nice job, the car looks tight.:eek:

Do have any under the front hood pics?
Also any pics of the car from the side? (like to see how she sits with all the liquids in)
Are you happy with the running temperature?

Thank you for sharing your conversion with us!

not quite ready for real street driving..might have to lower the rear just a bit. my front was already to high and i will lower it as well. not finished with the luggage compartment. still tidying up to do. i removed the front ventilation fan and intake box and am building a fresh air box replacement. as i have not driven on the street other than around the block, i am not sure of the running temps. im thinking that i might have to enlarge the primary grill opening...hope not as it is a genuine Ruf part. but wont hesitate if necessary. it fits really well and i did not wish to use an aftermarket replacement...thanks for the comments

will probably insure and pickup a license plate next week. posting a couple of front compartment pictures. norhing fancy. i bought one of those holey Rennline covers but did not care for it. my original cover was in decent shape. i also removed the front fan and vent system. i built an air collector box with drain and attached it to the original hot ports from the heat ducting. blows ambient temp air into the cab right above the level of the knees. for heat, i will take hot air from the rear of the radiator enclosure and vent into the cab using the same ports. of course i will have to close off the ports from the air collection box during cold weather.. if necessary i will add a couple of inline duct fans such as the nascar guys use to move the air with more force..hot air heating...but from the radiator hot air. i also made a hood prop of sorts. my hood is aluminum so not much weight to hold up! very simple using an old worn out hood shock and i was not going to drill on the hood to use one of the rsr type props.. plenty of room for an econo spare tire such as the 996 uses. also the modified original tank holds at least 18 gallons. i already had a gallon or two in the tank and added 17 more gallons and had not reached overflow/venttube level.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313246263.jpg
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well my first post was about nine months ago with the purchase of the fuel pressure regulator and filter...got my plate and insurance yesterday afternoon and set off this morning on the maiden shake down trip and went fourteen miles of 45 to 50 mile speeds through commercial areas. no high rpm nor quick acceleration. all gauges showed good numbers. checked for leaks and other than a slight valve cover gasket all seemed fine. no water leakage. not really hot this morning...maybe 85.... so not like out on a 95 to 100 degree day. im hoping that the front opening in the ruf bumper cover will allow enough air to the radiator. do not wish to alter a genuine Ruf piece but will if necessary. the ECU turns the fans on at about 195 degrees. i could tell that the modified ls7 was really wanting to go!! not yet???http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313591217.jpg

Are those FM10's on your car? If you decide to sell those, let me know..I'm looking for deeper dish fm10's for my 87.

they are 9/11 by 17s. would like to get a set of five spoke types...not fuchs...in the future. i will let you know if anything comes of different wheels. thanks, maxwedge528

That is a bad @$$ looking car! That thing must be a beast.....

I have to ask, will it do a wheelie? Serious question.

With all that rotating mass and low-end torque, I'd think it would do a wheelie if you dumped the clutch from a stop.

Lin, Curious where you mounted your emergency brake. Nice build BTW.

thank you and i removed years ago. and tippy, i would never attempt a wheelie. not sure that the drive line could standup...no pun intended... to that.

can one of you proud ls conversion guys tell me how to post a short video of my project. i stopped to see a friend at the local hot rod shop and one of the guys took a short video, and posted on youtube..much obliged! it is listed on youtube as ........porsche with 427 ls7...

Your car is outstanding!!!!!!!!!
You know, you don't live that far away...How much do you charge for a ride in that beast?

just go to the youtube video and look for the "inbed this video" or "copy" tab. Click on it and the go back to Pelican. Just paste the video link.

thank you ben.

Lin, can you help me with fuel hoses? I've got the Wix filter like you used. I'd like to use my stock fuel hoses. Did you source adapters to convert to the quick connect ends?

carsonmx, i replaced the factory fuel lines with larger capacity stainless steel lines so i was able to use standard AN fittings. i do not know if the proper metric to AN fittings are available. some of the guys on the forum who have updated to larger fuel rails, or who have replumbed their fuel systemat at the engine might know the answer. you would likely need a metric to -6 fuel hose for the return and -8 for the supply...i know that the adaptors for the fuel pressure regulator are available at Mast Motorsports and other shops. good luck!

Thanks Lin, I made my hoses up today. I sourced the ends and used high pressure hose with the fuel injection clamps. I started it up tonight. It's very loud right now with open manifolds, but I'm so glad to hear it run. What did you do for a throttle cable? my cable is gonna be too short. I appreciate your help and I really like your ride! You need my AWD setup!

i do not have the porsche throttle linkage. i have a drive by wire setup. glad that you got it running...what are you going to do for mufflers?

Sounds amazing! I'm looking at doing this in a 951

If I'd thought for a minute I'd have remembered that. I remember seeing the servo on yours now. My engine came with drive by wire, but I switched to a cable TB. I haven't done any research on the mufflers. Are you happy with yours? I'd like to twin turbo charge mine after I get all the bugs worked out so I'm gonna try to modify the stock manifolds for now instead of buying headers that I probably won't be able to use with turbos.

i used hushpower pro series primarily due to the overall size,,kinda pricey but they sound good. if you look at the link a couple of messages back you can hear them...

Lin,
I got all my drivetrain in over the weekend. It's so cool, I've got it on jackstands and when you turn the back wheels all four wheels turn in the same direction! I sent my radiator plans to my radiator builder today, I'm gonna try to mount my radiator in front of the right front wheel the same way my a/c condenser is mounted on the left side. I'm plumbing my waterpump tomorrow after work and I wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly. Both my hoses will go up the right side. Do the upper connections on the adaptor blocks go to the pump? Lower go the T? Is the pump pushing hot water to the radiator or pushing cooled water into the engine? Is the large connection on the pump the output? Did you do anything for a heater? Does yours have power steering and or air conditioning? I appreciate your help and advice. Thanks!

carsonmx...glad to hear of your progress. the upper ports go to the radiator. the lower ports to the water pump. the pump is on the return line and pushed cooled water and pulls as well back into the block. the large single port on the water pumps is the intake for the pump. the two smaller ports are to the block. i dont have a heater but intend to capture hot air from the rear of the radiator cover and port into the interior. no i have no frills not even a radio. regards, larry