nice. and if the conversion is done properly there is little reason not to be pleased. both of my conversions have the fuel system wired into the Mast Motorsports ECU.

Hey Hal ---> how's the project coming?

Yes.........how's the project coming?

Say hi to Trevor at Texas Speed for me! Good guys

Howdy all!

A little update. I lost my shop space earlier this year so I transitioned it out to another shop. I'm having it finished commercially. Yeah, I know. Yikes! But the shop is well known and he's done a lot of high dollar stuff including being the original fabricator/designer for the exhaust system on the Hennessey Venom. It's getting close - I think. More pics as they come available from him.

Oh, and it's for sale if anyone wants it.

Thanks,

Hal

Love those Fuch wheels you have pictured

OK. No luck selling it. I decided to finish it.

The front trunk is painted and the fuel tank is cut for an in tank pump.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1381947567.jpg

I think the front panel came out great. How about those little chevy bowtie cutouts!

Next up, we'll get the battery and a/c installed.

Then the duct that goes from the bumper to the body.

H

Looking Great Hal! When you get some free time you should come visit the new shop

looks good. mine is almost done. had it on the dyno and after making 342 hp we had to pull it off the ********* welder left chunks of metal behind in the tanks and messed up the fuel pump. So now I have to get a new fuel tank and pump. Well the pump arrived the other day. once I get the tank it goes back on the dyno to make 400 to 450 hp

Einar, I want to try and come by there. Everytime I do, something comes up.

Chris, I'd love to see how much your car weighs. Have you had someone put in on race scales? I wish I'd done the Mitsu motor now. It has to be lighter than the LS1 - not that the LS is heavy. It was 50 lbs lighter than the 6. It's probably 100 lbs lighter than a turbo 6.

H

No not on scales yet... I drove it to the body shop that was a lot of fun turbo kicks in wheel spin loved it... I am having the roof put on now. I need to have the car done by May for cruise week in Ocean City MD. I am also getting the 930 turbo flares put on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388511184.jpg

Work has resumed!!! Thankfully. It sat for a year almost while some non paying jacka$$es car sat on the lift - stranded there because of a lack of parts.

But that car is off and this one is on. Completion is imminent.

Here's the update photos for this week.

The AC/Heater Unit is installed and plumbed. Yes, the battery is located below it in the smugglers box, but the unit comes out with 2 bolts and has enough service loop in its connections so that nothing needs to be disconnected. We'll also install extensions from the positive side of the battery so we can jump and charge remotely. There'll also be an on/off switch.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404396540.jpg

Here's another view.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404396681.jpg

We also welded in some gussets for the shock towers and cut the notch for the intake into the crossmember.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404396762.jpg

That's all for now but more updates will be coming quick.

What is that AC evaporator unit?
It doesn't support a heater also? (by any chance I missed it?)
Thanks

It's an OldAirProducts.com 800

It does support heat. The two copper colored fittings on the near side are for hot water.

Hal

Hal!
1) What an idea! How good is the AC -- any possibility you can compare it to an original Porsche AC setup?

2) I heard of someone on this forum who was planning to route engine oil to provide heat. Any chance that was you??

3) Anyone's thoughts of whether a copper system set up for water would support hot oil flow also? I'm thinking that "normal" other cars have heaters that get over 200 degrees, plus a safety factor, but maybe oil gets too hot?
Any thoughts?

The only reason I was sticking with my factory headers was to be able to plumb in heat -- but I'd love to replace them with tuners, a la RarelyL8's.

Sorry -- did not realize that I had ventured into the CONVERSION side -- so obviously youse guys can run water to your evaporator heater coils.

HOWEVER, if there are any suggestions for my question about using engine oil through heater coils in the evaporator, PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR OPINIONS.
Thanks.

I would think that's possible. All you'd need to do is have somebody build you an oil cooler core that fits in the oldaire box and then plumb it up. Might be a little pricey but technically very simple.

Hal, whats the part number for your A/C

800... toward the bottom:
Custom Aftermarket A/C Systems & Replacement Parts for Hot Rod, Classic, & Vintage Cars/Trucks - 700/800 Series A/C Systems

Thank You


Hal can you show us more pics of you AC unit inside the car and how it works Thanks Chris

Yes. As soon as it's done I'll put together a youtube video.

TRE Boxster Brake conversion. Thanks Dave! Thanks Heidy!

Hoping to get the car running this weekend.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406341209.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406341221.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406341245.jpg

Some technical board this is. Not one person noticed I installed the front calipers upside down.

Went back today, put on the last couple of lines and was totally shocked when I went to bleed them.

It's fixed now.

been away from my computer for a day or two, but I think your caliper is upside down..bleeders go up top :D

That pic is dark enough that I can't even see the bleeders...

--DD

I noticed you have perimeter bolt valve covers. I was under the impression that was only used on 97-98 cars then they switched to the center bolt style. Odd

otherwise I love the project

It's out of a 99 corvette, so that's possible. I never did the research but I'm beginning to because I chose to leave the drive by wire pedal in place and now I'm having trouble installing it. I thought I'd just buy a CTS-V pedal but that pedal won't work with this engine.

It also rules out the totally rad Lokar pedal.

I think I'm going to mount it to floor and actuate it with my Rennline adjustable pedal.

H

i remember having a bit of trouble mounting my drive by wire pedal assembly. i had to build a mounting pad on the firewall to pace it suitably. i did use the bulkhead rather than the floor. and once mounted the pedal sensitivity is adjustable via the ecm.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406945975.jpg

Yeah. That's where mine ended up. But I forgot to grab a pic of it before I left! Doh!

It's a little low for me. I can't really heel and toe it. Actually, heel and toe is all I can do. Big toe on brake, heel on throttle. I'll change it later. It needs to be the same height as the brake so I can just roll my ankle left and right to get brake or throttle.

Here's some pics from today. Moving shops on Monday. Down to a punch list, now!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524820.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524835.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524877.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524895.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1407524912.jpg

not_hans_stuck,

Tell us about the water hose ends... is that some kind of shrink material that clamps the hoses to the fittings? Or...

Thanks,

not_hans_stuck,

Tell us about the water hose ends... is that some kind of shrink material that clamps the hoses to the fittings? Or...

Thanks,

Gates single use heat shrink clamps. They are very cool

Hose Clamps...
 

Wow, double cool, I've never seen them before... Do they work well?

Thanks,

Yup. That's what they are. They're from Gates. They're called PowerGrip SB - you can get the from NAPA or anywhere really.

They work great. Basically, there are two types of hose clamps. Constant Radius and Constant Tension. Constant Radius are what you usually see - the worm drive type. Constant tension are the spring type that you see on modern cars. These are a new type of constant tension. The basic idea is that the pipe and the hose expand and shrink with temperature. And while stainless steel clamps may look pretty they expand less with heat than either rubber or aluminum so the hotter the car gets the more tension is placed on the hose. Usually, this extra tension exceeds the elasticity of the hose so you see the rubber bulging through the clamp. Multiple cycles of expansion and contraction abrades the end of the hose over time.

The rubber fitting expands almost the same as the rubber hose so it's much better.

Also, it looks cool.

H

I guess it's Hans... you bring up a good point about the expansion of tubing and hoses, We tighten hose clamps "cold" which when they get hot the constant tension clamps squeeze into the hose. I've never thought of that until your post... Thanks,

I just wished that I was aware of the heat shrink clamps when I completed my water system. The first opportunity that I need to drain the radiators, I'll look into the heat shrink clamps. Typically how much can they shrink, 10%, 20%?

Thanks,

They list the range on the box. For instance, one of them is pn 32934. It fits hoses with OD's between 1-3/16'' and 1-1/2"

H

Where did you source the studs that you used to mount the transmission to the LS block? Did it come with the adapter plate kit? If not, do you have the specs on the studs you used?

Thanks.

-Don

I've told people this privately, but I haven't posted it.

Buy the kit from Renegade.

It includes all the hardware and I'm absolutely positive you cannot save yourself money by sourcing the parts individually. Don't reinvent the wheel.

The company that makes the adapter plate makes the adapter plate. They don't make the driveshaft bearing or the bolts. An adapter plate is not a kit.

If the kit is too much money for you, then you cannot afford to do the swap. Period.

This stuff ain't cheap. And don't go thinking that you can put an LS1 motor into a Porsche to save yourself the cost of rebuilding the Porsche motor. The swap, done correctly, will cost you more.

I'll caveat that by saying that IF you are planning on building a 450hp turbo motor, then the swap will be less. But it is NOT less than rebuilding your 3.2 or 2.7 motor into a mostly stock configuration. I'm pretty sure you can do a 3.6 hot rod for about the same money, as well.

I'm sure the other guys on the board that have done this swap can confirm this.

They are, however, an absolute blast to drive. At least, the one I drove was and that owner neglected even basic maintenance of the suspension and, in fact, the rest of the car.

I can't wait to drive mine for the first time. Shouldn't be long now.


Oh, and one last shameless endorsement for Renegade. Those guys rock. Just the fact that you can call them on the phone and toss ideas around is worth any extra amount you might be paying for something from them that you might be able to source from their OEM. Don't waste your time. Just buy the kit from them.


Hal

Not_hans_stuck, AKA Hal...

Hal is dead right, plus there's a lot of other factors involved... Non use of the car, the conversion isn't a 90 day turn around deal. I bought a Max Jax lift, I wouldn't do the conversion without one, or at least for the 996 conversion. These projects always cost more than you plan

I could go on, but Hal nailed what your considerations should be based on. However the bottom line is the LS engine is a bullet proof engine that will give years of high performance fun.

I just completed a 4,000 mile trip in my 996/LS3, averaged 24.4 MPG, not too bad for a 480 HP engine...

Like Hal says, a complete blast to drive...