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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Ok everyone I am starting my thread as I have made some progress on my swap project. Why a swap? Well I don't know really. When I was 17 a friend of mine snuck out his dad's 77 930. I got to take a ride in it and ever since I have loved the 930 wide body look and in particular the slantnose. Since these cars have appreciated to never never land and buying a "rough" example is financial suicide I put it out of my mind. Anyway one boring day I find myself cruising ebay 911s and I find a 1977 slantnose conversion for sale locally. I watched the car for a few days and eventually went to see it. It had a bad paint job but recently rebuilt 2.7 with Weber's and ssi exhaust. I bought it a few days later. The car did not run particularly well with a roughish idle that smoothed out when warm. Anyway I fooled with the carbs and distributer but could never get the car dialed in quite right. Around that time I saw KPAZ's Subaru conversion that I thought was really cool. I posted the engine, exhaust, and carbs on Pelican, recovered 50% of the price I payed for the car and was off to the races. I have been fooling with the car for just over a year but am getting quite close to starting it. One goal of this conversion was to do everything on very limited budget so that I finish the car for $6k not including paint. I think I will be able to make it under budget but we'll see when I tally everything at the end. Anyway here is the swap to date.






As I wrote earlier this is a very budget conscious swap so everything used is from Ebay, Craigslist, or the u pull it junk yard. I got very lucky with the motor. It is a JDM EZ30R that I won on an EBAY Auction from Small CAr PErformance in Portland Oregon. They seem to be good guys and look very involved in swapping Subaru motors into Volkswagon Camper Vans. Apparently they picked up a bunch of these motors from an importer who went broke. They decided to sell them rather than fool around with the drive by wire, CAN BUS, etc. I am going to run a standalone ECU so none of that matters to me. The cost of the motor shipped to a freight terminal was $700. Score!

I am using a Kennedy Engineering adapter plate and flywheel to mate the motor and transmission. The KEP product seems exceptionally well made. While the transmission was out I replaced the ring gear and clutch disc since I broke a tooth on the gear and the disc was near the rivits. Cost $300 As I mentioned I am running a standalone ECU so I had to replace the Subaru trigger wheel with wheel with a common trigger pattern. Outfront performance makes a very cool trigger wheel that fits in the factory location behind the flywheel. They also made the primaries for the exhaust.


I mated the motor and transmission and lifted them into place with a Harbor Freight ATV lift. That lift should be purchased by every 911 owner. It makes lowering the engine and trans out of the car an easy one man operation. Once in place I measured and leveled and measured and leveled some more. When I was happy with the fitment I tightened the trans mounts up. I wasn't opposed to welding to the original structure but being a novice welder I was scared of burning through the sheet metal so I decided against modifying the original structure at all. I have to give credit again to KPAZ because my cradle design was inspired by his.

As you can see the engine is much smaller then the 2.7. I am hoping to fit a radiator behind the motor but will probably end up putting it up front like everyone else. I was able to retain the Porsche rubber mounts and some Impreza mounts between the cradle and motor. I am a little worried about stability but won't know until I start the car

Here is the cradle. I modified the design to tie in to the chassis where the valance mounts pass through the frame rail. Does anyone know how strong this part of frame is? It seems very well reinforced but I am not an engineer.


I am going to reinforce the cradle where the legs meet the crossbar. Once that is welded in I will grind he welds (they're ugly) and paint it rustoleum gloss white. I am going to fabricate a wiring harness by pulling an existing harness from a batch injector fired junkyard car and removing what I don't need. I will try to get both sides of the harness so that the connector looks factory and is waterproof. My ECU is an Emerald K6 that I picked up off Craigslist for $150. Seems very well supported in England and has some net features like cutting spak so you can shift at full throttle, VVT support etc.

Last edited by JIM DRAGTEAM; 02-04-2014 at 07:00 AM..
Old 01-19-2014, 11:43 AM
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Looks like a great swap to me ! Your starting with a great car, I too fell in love with the wide body 911 long ago. Renegade is a great resource they have done this type of swap ( in the 914 ) for ever. There are a ton of guys on the 914 forums to help with issues as the mid swap and tail are similar.
Sorry I'm not well versed to help with the cradle question. Welding on old cars, adding things as you are need extra care. Making one area strong often weakens another not designed in by the factory.

My project


Last edited by drive-ability; 01-26-2014 at 11:18 PM..
Old 01-26-2014, 11:12 PM
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update

I've spent several days working on the wiring harness. I went out to the upull it and hacked out several connectors and extra wire. My original idea to repurpose a batch fired v6 harness didn't work out as I could not find a car that old in the yard. I'm repining several Delphi connectors to build the harness. I may just rewire everything having to do with engine control and gauges. The car had been converted from cis to carbs with a mallory ignition control before I bought it so I'm not sure how much of the original harness is intact anyway. If anyone would tell me the purpose and termination point of the 4 wires coming off the transmission I would appreciate it. Im assuming back up lights and start in gear prevention but not sure. Thanks
Old 01-27-2014, 05:53 PM
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Neat project man. Keep it up. I love Slantnose cars.
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:02 PM
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finished wiring harness and relay board

I finally finished the wiring harness and relay board. All wire to wire connections are soldered and covered in heat shrink. This took forever to complete but I am happy with the results. Next step is to reinforce the engine cradle and modify the stock fuel rail to a return system. Is anyone following this build?
Old 02-08-2014, 04:18 PM
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Love your style, I know I've seen that fuse block some where before ? If you don't mind where or what did it come from ?
I'm using a fuse block which was mounted in the trunk of a 2000 era Cadillac. Its to replace the under dash original 914 unit. I wont be mounting it In a place where I'll be up-side down working with it
Old 02-08-2014, 07:50 PM
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I got the fuse panel from an early 90's camaro/firebird at the upull it yard. It was on the drivers side just behind the headlight assembly. The lever lock delphi harness connectors were from mid to late 90's GM cars. They work really well and are easy to repin as neccesary

I drilled and tapped my fuel rails today. I need a little help with the layout of the stock cis fuel lines. If anyone has them please post.


I remounted my fuel filter from above the engine to the bracket where the accumulator was mounted. I ground off the most of the original bracket and welded some angle iron in to make a flat mounting surface. It seems to work well.

Last edited by JIM DRAGTEAM; 04-01-2014 at 02:31 AM..
Old 02-09-2014, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhardy252 View Post
I drilled and tapped my fuel rails today. I need a little help with the layout of the stock cis fuel lines. If anyone has them please post.
You mean this? CIS is pretty basic, pump, accumulator, filter, return line regulator. The accumulator is there to smooth out the pulses. I don't know if you mentioned it, I'm lazy and don't want to go back through and read all of it, but a lot of guys just keep the CIS pump and regulate the pressure down to 30-40psi or whatever is needed in your case. CIS pumps have good amounts of volume and are very tough.

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Old 02-16-2014, 05:38 AM
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I have the motor back in the car. Since my last post I've finished the harness, fuse panel, fuel rails, and painted the motor mounts/cradle. When installing the drivetrain I forgot to slide the throttle linkage over the pivot point that is pressed into the transmission case. Now the trailing arm is in the way. If there are any tricks that will avoid dropping the tranny a few inches I would love to hear about them. I have also worked on the exhaust system a bit. Originally I was going to use the borsch muffler that came with the car but now I'm looking at fabricating true dual exhaust using Dynomax bullet mufflers. Any opinions on how loud those would be? If I go that route the total length of the exhaust would be about 18 inches. I think if I use the bullets I will have room to keep the radiator in the rear of the car.



Last edited by JIM DRAGTEAM; 04-01-2014 at 02:33 AM..
Old 03-15-2014, 05:48 AM
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and then?
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a few pics of my project
Old 03-22-2014, 07:33 AM
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Accepting the front mount radiator solution

Over the last few weeks I have tried every size radiator, heater core, trans cooler considered intercoolers, etc to keep the cooling system in the rear. I have given up. I am going to try to use a Jeep xj sized radiator mounted behind the bumper cover. It fits with minor mods. I am just unsure of the air flow. Unrelated: I also took a weekend off to pick up my new to me plasma cutter and 250 amp welder. Now I can really do some damage.

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Old 03-23-2014, 02:16 PM
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Is the heat problem solved ? What radiator did you use ?
Old 04-02-2014, 09:46 PM
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Any up date. I was able to keep my radiator in the rear. It's a Honda Civic racing rad with a 3800cfm fan. I am also using a Mitsubishi motor from a Evo 8..... I also had the turbo flares welded on as I did a coupe roof. I cut a little and did some minor duct work where the oil sump tank was.



Old 07-20-2014, 06:59 AM
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I recently started working again on it again. I am thinking about two of these heat exchangers. 1 in front and one in the rear. If they have enough cooling capacity I won't have to cut the tub.
Old 01-08-2015, 05:40 PM
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Nice build so far along with some interesting ideas I hadnt thought about.

I didnt cut my tub with this radiator setup:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/488187-help-me-style-beat-up-old-912-a-18.html

I took idea from PVX who had done the job very nicely. Take a look at his build page - search PVX, cant miss it.

Keep up the build, should be fun once complete!!
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:07 PM
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work continues

I've restarted work on the project. I've been testing the harness in the car. So far the injectors and sensors are working. I still need to test the coil and get the starter circuit figured out. I made a bracket for the coilpack so it mount over the right cylinder head.

Old 01-11-2015, 04:08 PM
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Alternator Bracket Built

I sourced an alternator from the u-pull it yard. I chose the one that was all over the place in the yard. It came out of a 2003 Taurus. I chose the Taurus because I figured I had a god chance of a dead alternator coming out of the yard and wanted a large inventory of replacements.I had to build a bracket to mount it which was surprisingly easy to do. I got the pulley alignment right on my first try using a straight edge. With any luck I'll be able to start it in a week or two.
Old 02-01-2015, 02:46 PM
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Far out man.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:48 AM
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lets see some more pics.....lets see your radiator set up. looks good..
Old 02-07-2015, 05:35 PM
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great work. I like the ingenuity
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Old 02-15-2015, 04:59 AM
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