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Which is a better option?
I'm keeping these generic since I don't want to put up pics of the cars or give too
much info, in order to respect the sellers' privacy, etc. 2 SC Coupes Option 1: 60K fewer miles, needs transmission work, most likely a trans rebuild. Sporadic maintenance records. Interior is good, not great. Option 2: 60K more miles, extensive maintenance history, interior is excellent, transmission shifts like buttah. Negotiated price for both, Option 1 is $5K cheaper. I will get PPIs on both. There's no rust on either, no body damage, etc. Exterior condition is basically the same for both. The way I'm doing the math the $5K discount will go to a transmission rebuild. So essentially these are the same price. So the real question becomes, does 60K more miles offset the better interior and better maintenance? For most cars, the answer would be no way. But for classic cars, I always hear mileage doesn't matter as much as condition and maintenance. So what say you all? |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Johns Creek, GA
Posts: 1,442
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with the info provided to this point I would say its a wash, but maintenance records/history are huge. . The PPI results may steer you in one direction VS the other. you should ultimately go with one you may like better, especially it you like one color better vs the other, and how they actually drive. I just helped a good friend go thru the whole scouting, evaluation, and decision making process on his ultimate purchase on a 70s Mercedes SL.
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Charles 88 911 Cab 74 TR6 88 CRX Si 79 930 #632 (sold her and survived her) Last edited by cellison; 05-12-2019 at 07:13 AM.. |
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gearhead
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loverland, CO
Posts: 23,540
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What is actual mileage? 60 and 120k mi are 60k apart. So is 105k and 165k.
I’m leaning towards #2. $5k covers the gearbox but what about all the other things you find?
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1974 914 Bumble Bee 2009 Outback XT 2008 Cayman S shop test Mule 1996 WRX V-limited 450/1000 |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2005
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Matt’s right, the starting point of the mileage is important. (just as an example) Obviously a 10k mile car would be the clear cut winner over a 70k mile car, but as the miles add up they become less of a factor in determining its value. So if option 1 has say 140k miles and option 2 has say 200k miles, at this point it’s probably more about the maintenance history and condition of the car. It’s also about the price point itself, is that 5k coming off of a 70k car or a 30k? Which ties back into knowing how many miles are on each car, as that determines value (along with its condition). Meaning 5k could be a somewhat large percentage of the prices you’re looking at if they’re high mileage cars. You probably need to offer up a bit more info before guys can properly opine on which way they’d go if in your shoes. That’s my two cents...
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gearhead
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loverland, CO
Posts: 23,540
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If it’s an SC I’m still with the maintained car.
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1974 914 Bumble Bee 2009 Outback XT 2008 Cayman S shop test Mule 1996 WRX V-limited 450/1000 |
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Appreciate all the input.
Just to clarify one thing, the lack of maintenance, isn't so much that it's missing and an unknown. The current owner has owned it for a while, 10ish years. When I asked him about maintenance he said basically, it hasn't needed much other than changing the oil, tires, brakes, etc. By 80K does it really need that much other than things that wear out? It's like if it doesn't need work, is the lack of work on it a negative? Then again for a 35+ year old car, even at 80K miles it probably needs a lot of things, just from the fact parts are 35 years old? |
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gearhead
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loverland, CO
Posts: 23,540
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I owned my Carrera for 8 years. My father and I shared it for 28k mi. We did the starter, alternator, and fuel pump in that time. Otherwise oil and and pads. I sold it last fall and put $10k into reconditioning it prior to sale. Even if you pull out the $2500 in pdr, color correction and ceramic coating, it was still $7500 mechanical and trim. Car had about 130k mi. Ymmv.
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1974 914 Bumble Bee 2009 Outback XT 2008 Cayman S shop test Mule 1996 WRX V-limited 450/1000 |
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Registered
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When I was looking for an SC I ran across a bunch of turds. I wouldn’t trust the odometers unless you had paperwork and a good feel for the owner.
You didn’t mention color combos, but based on the limited information I’d say #2 sounds a bit better. What years, coupe or targa, and what options? Quality upholstery and paintwork is not inexpensive these days, and mechanics will be expensive - a $5k 915 rebuild is probably even on the low end. Good luck, SC’s can be great cars. |
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Registered
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To clarify is there enough maintenance record to confidently know that the odometer hasn’t rolled over and it’s not 100k more? My mechanics 911 has almost 1 million miles. It’s eye-opening
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911, 914-6, 928
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What does 'maintenance history" mean? By 140,000 miles it could easily need the valve guides, valve seals, head studs, reseal, clutch, tie rod ends, CV boots, etc. If the maintenance history is just oil changes and brakes there could be a big repair bill is in the cards. With a 80,000 mile car that didn't see any real track time and with normal oil changes done, it should not need most of those things unless it was abused repeatedly.
An inspection is your best indication. |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Frozen Tundra
Posts: 47
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I would have to know the color combos being compared... it's all about the colors IMO.
Last edited by E911; 05-13-2019 at 06:37 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,701
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You also need to consider the linearity of the miles - did that 150K car do most of its miles in its first ten years...then basically sit for another twenty? Accurate records are essential!
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In 2007 it had 123K miles. That's the furthest back the receipts go and it's too early for a Carfax.
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 944
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Head studs are my main concern on ANY '78-'89 car. I've owned a perfectly maintained 55K car that broke them and 90K car that did the same. Don't think for a minute they'll last forever.
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R Gruppe #111 Early S Registry #235 res ipsa loquitur |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,347
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The one in better condition with better maintenance records at the better price is the best one
![]() To me, the 140K mile example is likely the better buy, if you are buying to use vs having an investment piece.
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1970 914-6 Past: 2000 Boxster 2.7, 1987 944, 1987 924S 1978 911SC, 1976 914 2.0, 1970 914 w/2056 |
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Former Options Trader !!!
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bucks County PA
Posts: 6,756
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Doesn't sound like either are "investment" cars.
Color matters, guards red cars came with more HP (just kidding). There is a premium for some colors and a discount for others.
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Current:88 Guards Red Coupe, 89 Coupe Track Rat, 76 Caddy Eldo Convert. 2015 Aprilia Tuono Wrecked 1987 Targa Guards Red, 2003 Ducati ST4S Sold 1987 Granite Green Targa, 993's, 93 RSA, other 964 coupes, 89 911 Turbo Ruf mods, 90 e30 M3, 07 BMW R1200S STOLEN 94 Speedster |
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