shift lever housing question

[nixter]

I have some problems with my tranny. I believe some of the syncros are going and need replacing. My shifting is also quite "notchy", that is, I have to sometimes jam the lever past what feels like a bump to get into gear, (only from a stand still though), Once moving, shifting is smoother. The shift lever also has TONNES of slop when in neutral, it basically wobbles around freely.

What if anything can I improve by opening up the shift lever housing? Or are all my problems requiring a tranny drop?

Thanks,

Nix

[Oh Haha]

You should first check out the bushings associated with the shifter linkage. Check the coupler between the rear seats. Replace the bshings if worn. Check the ball cup bushing at the "business end" of the shift lever. Lastly, adjust the linkage according tto the 101 book or the factory manual. It doesn't sound like your syncros to me. It is very simple to do.
How old is your trans fluid? If you don't know. you should change it. Swepco works well. Use the search feature for TONS of useful tips here on Pelican.
Wayne

[Randy Webb]

Also, don't forget the bushing in the bracket near the lever. It is a 90 deg bent bracket and the bushing sits vertically (if any of it still exists).

[kach22i]

Originally posted by nixter
TONNES of slop

Replace all the bushings and couplers as already suggested. Plus I recomend installing the Seine System shifter kit. It elliminated slop in addition to helping shifting by letting me know what gear I was in and guiding me to the next gear.

Warning: they recommend doing all your bushings and coupler adjustments first, however be aware that if you want to tweek it after the install you, will be unable to use the method that requires you to be in neutral between 1st and 2nd. This is because a spring keeps to to the right between 3rd and 4th.

PS: do a search on the Dow Corning tranny additive (Moykote or some weird spelling), I did it and it just might work afterall.

[Bill Verburg]

To firm up the on center feel you can also either shim or replace w/ beefier springs #9 in the following diagram

[911pcars]

I've disassembled many 915 shift housings. Most of the time, excessive play is caused by worn nylon bushings (#s 22 and 23 and those in the shift coupler, not shown).

Absent of any lube, excessive wear can occur between the shift lever (2) and the fork (3) and between the fork and the shift housing (1). Unless there's no lube at all, these parts don't seem to cause the normal sloppiness one feels.

However, on shift housings made before '77, clearance between 1 and 3 can be decreased by adding shims at the end(s) of the fork. Excessive clearance between 2 and 3 usually means the shift lever is worn (no lube?). It's normally a slight interference fit. You can build up a worn lever by welding or replacing it.

On shift housings made after '77, there is an adjustment screw at the front of the housing to adjust the play between 1 and 3.

As Kach22i points out, the Gate Shift kit relies on free movement of the shift lever and spring tension to center the lever in the 3/4 shift plane.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood
www.seinesystems.com

[kstylianos]

If you want to wait on the coupler bushings, these brass bushings should be avail. within the next month or so.

Feedback so far has been positive over the plastic/rubber types.

I'll get into specifics if/when Waynes blesses the soliciting (dedicated post).

[Randy Webb]

Dang! I do everything on this car a few months too early...

[Early_S_Man]

Nix,

Not all 'looseness' shifter problems can be cured with new bushings ...

You can disassemble and clean the shifter ... paying particular attention to everything attached to, or in moving contact with the #3 pivot plate.

The #7 pin may need shims outboard under the retaining clips or between shift lever and pivot plate to make it a snug fit in operation.

If your housing doesn't have the adjustable pivot in front with large hex locknut, you will probably have to shim both fore and aft rollpins [between the plate ends and the shifter housing] ... the pivot plate needs to be tight and stiff when the shifter is reassembled and lubed. The factory only used white lithium grease, and it deteriorates fairly rapidly at the working pivot points. I use and recommend a high-quality EP moly grease such as Valvoline #985 or #986 SynPower Synthetic grease with moly.

The following thread has closeup pics I posted of the shifter internals showing where the lithium grease is contaminated with wear particles:

short throw shifter

[kstylianos]

Not all 'looseness' shifter problems can be cured with new bushings ...

I agree 100%. There are plenty of other places between the shift lever and the transmission where 20 years of wear/tare can take their toll.

Take Warrens advice and also look at Sherwoods "Blue Printing the 915 Shift Housing" page.

http://www.seinesystems.com/ShiftHousBluPrint.htm