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DEFROST MANIFOLD

Now we had the heater in we thought it a good idea to install some of the ducting to spread that heat where it might be needed. The foot wells heat comes right out of the side of the heater box so we donít have to deal with that, and the center and side vents are fed from flexible pipes so we can figure those out later. But the windshield defrost blows through the firewall bulkhead and into a distribution manifold that used to be part of the molded dash pad. Fortunately we hadnít managed to throw the dash pad away.

This is the plastic distribution manifold on the underside of the dash pad.



From what we gleaned looking at hundreds of restoration pictures is that you cut the dash pad to leave just this front area containing the manifold and vents then remove all the molded on dash pad foam from the top and bolt it back into place. Of course our manifold was cracked so we had to disassemble the thing.





This is how the manifold interfaces with the bulkhead/dash tube once itís all put back together. You can see the central feed from the heater box below the dash tube.



Next we removed the excess dash pad material with a cutoff wheel and set about cleaning it up.







We covered up some excess holes that were previously blocked and painted it and the vents satin black.





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Old 02-28-2019, 10:12 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #61 (permalink)
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Then we set about fixing the plastic manifold.



While the glue was setting up we riveted the vents back into place.





Then we applied some sealant before riveting the two parts back together.





And then popped it into place.





For some reason this was one of the most satisfying projects we have tackled so far. Next time weíll restore and install the washer bottle and coolant reservoir. Maybe not so satisfying.

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Old 02-28-2019, 10:14 AM
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Cracking on with engine bay stuff we installed the clutch master cylinder. Remember, we have an 20V AAN engine just itching to try on this engine bay for size so we want to get as much engine bay stuff figured out before it crawls in there.



Not wanting to lose our bottle before the engine fit we also tested and installed the coolant reservoir. We rigged up this pressure test to see if it would hold 1.35 bar:





The reservoir didn’t leak but the cap let go at about 1.2 bar. We tried our cap from the 85 URQ and it held. We are going to need a new cap.



We cleaned it as best as we could and bolted it in place along with the washer bottle.



We should’ve thought about this earlier but after crawling under the front bumper all afternoon we decide it was time to take the front bumper and bumper bar off the car. Duh!





We now have a walk-in Quattro.





We know, not very exciting stuff but next we are going to work on the very trick twin master brake system with bias bar that we got from England! Riveting stuff! No, actually it bolts in.
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Old 03-06-2019, 11:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #63 (permalink)
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Old 03-11-2019, 05:08 AM
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BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS

We decided some time back that this car would dispense with the hydraulically powered brakes and employ dual master cylinders with a bias bar adjuster but were never quite sure how we'd accomplish that. Then a friend turned us on to Compbrake in England who have a bolt-in kit for the Quattro. How could we say "no"?

So we ordered one up and it arrived in just a few days. Seems to be very comprehensive. It even has a bracket and lines for remote reservoirs.





The first job was to figure out how to mate up its four bolts with three on the bulkhead. It was seemingly not as "bolt-in" as we'd hoped. We made a template and transferred it to the car and immediately discovered that the four required holes would interfere with the pedal mounts. Something did not seem quite right.







Then a gentleman and fellow Quattro rally car builder called Frank pointed out that the kit is designed to bolt to the OE brake booster not the firewall. He also highlighted how far into the engine bay this would make the assembly protrude because he had installed one himself. However, he had engineered a solution by way of an interface ring that was only about an inch thick rather than the 5"-6" of the booster. A few more emails and some PayPal and one showed up at our shop.



This made all the difference and we were able to mock it all up in short order:





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Old 03-29-2019, 08:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #65 (permalink)
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We then set about making it look nice by trimming it and painting it:









Frank also included some DOM tubing to replace the 5/16" threaded rod that came with the kit as this linkage was going to end up quite long. The DOM would be much stiffer and didn't take much work to cut it to the correct length, thread it and attach a couple of short, threaded rods to each end. We will probably have this assembly plated before the too long.





And here it all is installed. We attached the reservoirs directly to the cylinders for now as we don't yet know where everything else is going. The Group B cars had them mounted to the strut bar but we are not that particular. We'll see what seems the best location later in the build.







Next on the list is engine prep. Look out for that one soon.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:34 AM
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ENGINE Teardown

Well, this is a big step forward for the project. Itís time to take the engine off its pallet and get it into the car. Of course it is not that simple. We have lots of ways to make it complicated.



As weíve previously discussed, we decided to go with a fairly stock later AAN 20 valve engine rather than try to wring extra power from the original 10 valve that came with the car. We should be able to see 300hp from this without creating a stressed out monster nor breaking the bank. Purists may scoff but they arenít paying the bills.

We sourced this one from Marc over at EFI Express. They are huge Audi fans and know a lot about these engines. This is a tested and resealed, good engine, basically ready to bolt in. Marc chipped the ECU and stripped the harness of all unnecessary body wiring.

However, our aesthetic bar has been raised somewhat over the course of the build so now we feel we need to strip it down externally and clean, paint a re-plate every last nut and washer. We will try to restrain ourselves however. Itís just an engine and this is supposed to be a rally car. Letís see how this goes.

First step was to get the thing in the air and on to our engine stand but before we could do that we wanted to remove the clutch and flywheel. This revealed a new crankshaft seal as expected but a bonus stage 3 CenterForce clutch that looked like it might even be serviceable. Thanks Marc.









We were always going to have to replace or modify the intake manifold as the stock location of the throttle body will interfere with our side mounted radiator, so we started dismantling the intake side of the engine first. Getting at the ten Allen bolts that held it on was a big PITA. It would have been easier if weíd realised there are access holes going through the manifold before we started rather than after weíd finished DOH!







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Old 04-09-2019, 09:30 AM
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We also needed to delete the AC compressor so the belt and all the ancillaries came off.







Unfortunately we decided the idler and belt tensioner pulley bearings were both near the end of their useful life so we’ll add those to the list of refurbishments.

We also discovered our engine came without the front engine mount; the one that stops it moving up and down when you get on the gas, so we’ll have to source or make one of these.



We are also going to need some different senders and sensors to drive our non-stock VDO gauges. At least they’ll be clean and shiny.



We believe the turbo is good and are reluctant to open up this rabbit hole so we think we will just clean up the exhaust side in situ. Let’s see how that goes.





So check back later to see if we manage to not replace, repaint or re-plate every last piece of this engine.



SIGNATURE
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:30 AM
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WHEELS

Halfway through our engine tear down our new wheels showed up. Yes, they did distract us.



We chose these from BRAIDís catalogue because they look very similar to the BBS wheels the Rothmans (and some others) rally Quattros ran back in the day. Look:

[img] http://www.slotforum.com/forums/uploads/1394039212/gallery_23154_1510_26293.jpg [/img]

Specs are:
- BRAID Serie 4 RC
- 15x10
- Et0
- 5x112
- 57.1 center bore

As far as our research suggests, the same as the originals.

Of course we took lots of pictures.











Then, we installed a couple of our TB5 tires to make sure the wheel and tire package would actually work.







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Old 04-24-2019, 01:07 PM
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Nailed it!



In case you weren’t paying attention earlier these tires are Michelin TB5 historic tarmac rally tires in size 265/40-15 and are just 23.3” overall diameter. Again, the same size these cars ran in period, at least in tarmac trim.

Next week back to the engine, we promise.

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Old 04-24-2019, 01:07 PM
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Our Quattro rally build has reached the final 15 of a competition on Pelican Parts forum. You can vote for us here:

DIY Build Contest Top 15 - VOTE HERE!
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:22 AM
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We promised you an engine-based post this week so here you are.

As we mentioned in an earlier post we were supposed to just bolt this in but have recently gotten carried away with cleaning and polishing everything on this car so let's see how nuts we can go with an engine. Is there therapy available for this stuff? We need help.

So we started by painting the block, even though nobody will ever see it once it's in the car. It's not like it didn't have paint on before. Jeez!



Then we turned our attention to refurbishing the cluster of accessories we previously took off.

We decided to reduce the size of the AC and alternator bracket as we are deleting the AC. We could have just found a non-AC bracket but they were expemsive and all in Europe because Americans can't drive without the windows up (electric) and the AC on.



We couldn't make ours quite the same shape but we did cut a sizable chunk off the rear:





The idler pulley bearing was noisy and NLA so we just replaced the pulley with a GM something or other.



About the same size but has the bearing in the pulley like a normal one not inside the bracket like an Audi one. Consequently some re-engineering was required.





It turned out pretty nice, if that's not a pun.



We also blasted and painted the engine mount brackets because, well, we're sick. Next week we'l probably paint something else; maybe gold! Stay tuned.

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Old 05-15-2019, 07:50 AM
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