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Stijn, think about how much time elapses between clearance delivery and the end of the runway at JFK. Plenty of time for the weather picture to change.
And actually, it DOES mean that the Captain can say "unable" and fly whatever direction one wants, if that is necessary to maintain safety of flight. Even if it means disrupting the departure flow.
The controller has a routine that he's working, and he gets upset when Shamrock disrupts that routine, so he starts upbraiding the Captain about "six levels of weather," trying to substitute his own weather judgment for the Captain's. The suggestion is that Shamrock is trying to disrupt the routine to avoid even the most minor turbulence.
The problem with the controller's attitude is that it's coming in conflict with safety of flight. It's not like Shamrock is requesting Direct Dublin for convenience, the Captain clearly says he's unable due to weather, calmly and professionally.
New Yorkers are famous for our attitude, but there's a limit, particularly when people can get killed.
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