Quote:
Originally Posted by targa80
I used the supplied fresh air blower gasket and added a foil backed insulator strip to close the opening and black tape on the the side facing the outside of the grill.
I could also add a thin foil faced blanket to separate the evaporator/blower from the rest of the frunk.
I decided to insulate the evaporator/blower/ducts because of the excessive condensation. In my opinion just using a thermal blanket to separate the exposed evaporator/blower/ducts from rest of frunk would not have eliminated condensation on the unit itself.
My next step is to go with a high UV window tinting. Yesterday, temps in Jensen beach was 90F with 78% humidity. A thermometer on the dash read 130F just after a 15 minute drive, the car was getting heat soaked. The system cabin temp was in the high 80’s and vent temp in low 50’s. The system needs to get the vent temps in the low 40’s to be effective. With the untinted glass there is no way the system will reach the low 40’s in the peak of the heat soaked Florida summer.
I have talked to other Floridians that adding a high UV tint to the windows and they all said it was a marked improvement on the efficiency of the AC cooling in the car. Won’t know how much this will help my issue until I get it done.
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I think the tint is a good idea, especially on a Targa. FWIW Targa Dan adds a layer of insulation as an option with his top refurbishment. This would also be easy to test with loose fitting insulation, foil barrier is recommended. Keep in mind foil needs air space on the back side to work most effectively.
Duc Hunter's thread talks about his experience with tinting and is a good reference.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1031236-classic-retrofit-c-experience-guide.html
When shopping for tint you need heat rejection. The UV rejection is the easy part, many tints block 99%+ of UV regardless of how dark or light they are.