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so the question at hand is can you just blend out a silver base into the adjacent panel and have it match?
the answer is for sure YES!
this is done daily on shops all the time.
the next question is can a silver be panel painted?
yes to this also! but there are many variables on how to be successful or totally fail doing it.
right now I'm panel painting a quad color red. it's the door on a 2 door hatch back so you couldn't get a more mid panel that will need to match.
when I paint most every car it's painted completely apart so every bolt on panel is off the car.
many times everything isn't even painted in the same booth load.
I don't have a problem with the colors matching.
the success of painting things this way is not magic it's documentation.
1st is you have to orientate the parts that are off the car the same why they would be hanging/bolted on the car.
from that point you would spray the panels using the same sealer as you used to do the main body of the car.
you would spray it in exactly the same way using the same gun speed and at the same distance from the panel.
your color coats you would do in exactly the same way being sure the used the same speed reducer and with the exactly the same mixing ratio with the same exact same amount of coats.
you would also do the same when it comes to the clear coats.
with some colors like silver and gold's with just a little heaver or lighter coats of clear this will change the shades of the colors making them either to light or to dark.
with the fenders that are posted here on this posting unless you know exactly how you sprayed them right down to the air pressure you sprayed them at you would be going thru hell trying to match the adjacent panels.
so this would be a blending into the adjacent panels.
both doors most likely the hood and cowl along with also repainting both fenders over again.
most people screw up painting silver and it not even matching the blend panel to the adjacent non blended panel.
the biggest reason for this is they will put full wet coats of clear on the hope blent panel.
this is how you would do it :
you 1st need to prep the two fenders with a proper grit paper to get proper adhesion for your sealer ( if using ) and your base coat color. the blend panels should only need to be scuffed with a product like SEM's scuff and clean using either a white pad or a gray pad. the colors of scuff pads do not always determine the grit's of a scuff pad.
when I do a blend after the panels are all prepped and masked I will run a piece of masking paper down the edge of the blend panel masking it so the sealer and the base from the panel that is needed to be paint will not get onto the blend panel.
I will then get my full coverage of the base color on right up to the point of ready for clear coating.
at this point you unmask the blend panel and now blend the color onto the blend panel and also into the newly painted panel. staying at least 1/2 way across the blend panel from the non painted panel.
once the blend is done and your blend and newly painted panels are matching you can now spray on the clear coats.
lets say your looking to do two coats of clear.
the 1st coat of clear you only spray about half way down the blend panel.
you do not spray all the way to the edge of the blend panel where it meets the non blend panel.
on your next and last coat of clear you will spray this coat all the way to the edge of the non blend panel.
most every painter ( well no if they were a painter they would know how to do a blend ) ok so sprayer what they do is spray every coat of clear over the hole blend panel. after they peal the masking off they tend to see the blend panel is now darker than the non blend panel .
this is because the light has now more clear to pass thru throwing the color off making it look darker.
now the question is don't you need at the least two coats of clear on a panel that you are painting?
NO because you didn't put base over half the blend panel you will still have the original clear on that area. the original clear on the blend panel is enough UV protection to protect the old base under it. then your one single coat of clear is just a little more protection. the mil build from a single coat of clear is enough to color sand and buff if needed. but this again comes down to being a sprayer or a painter. most every car does have even a touch of orange peal to it so matching the texture is just as important as matching the cars color. most sprayers have to buff everything they spray because the work isn't good enough to get the texture to also match.
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