painted a couple of fenders.

[Bill Douglas]

I bought a couple of replacement fenders for the SC.

Did all the prep stuff then painted them today. I'm quite pleased with how they came out

[Cairo94507]

Those came out very nice. How is the color match?

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by Cairo94507

How is the color match?

Yes, that's the big one.

I'd done quite a lot of practice runs on the engine lid and taken the car to my paint supplier who is an ex car painter himself. He said the color is correct (straight out of the pot PPG coarse silver metallic). That's what it was painted with about 20 years ago. He said it looked different in certain lights because of the way the metallic flakes lie down. He added 15% matting which makes them stand up. Also by dusting the last coat of silver on by holding the gun on the angle made it look more "metallic". Also I used black primer so if there is any transparency it will darken it which is what I want.

But how will it look when I've got them on the car I don't know. I've gone a new bumper and I'll paint the hood as well. So I may need to blend it in to the doors. I've been procrastinating for years so at this point I'm just making sure it happens LOL

[Dpmulvan]

Silver metallic impossible to match, I would paint the whole car with all the panels on the car, only way for it to look right.

[aaocinc]

Painting the whole car for a couple fenders? Your paint looks nice. You shoild be able to just blend the doors like you said.

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by aaocinc

Painting the whole car for a couple fenders? Your paint looks nice. You shoild be able to just blend the doors like you said.

Tell us how you would do it you know blending the doors. Start with prep then take us all the way through it. Gun set up, prep, product et.

[962porsche]

so the question at hand is can you just blend out a silver base into the adjacent panel and have it match?
the answer is for sure YES!
this is done daily on shops all the time.
the next question is can a silver be panel painted?
yes to this also! but there are many variables on how to be successful or totally fail doing it.
right now I'm panel painting a quad color red. it's the door on a 2 door hatch back so you couldn't get a more mid panel that will need to match.
when I paint most every car it's painted completely apart so every bolt on panel is off the car.
many times everything isn't even painted in the same booth load.
I don't have a problem with the colors matching.
the success of painting things this way is not magic it's documentation.
1st is you have to orientate the parts that are off the car the same why they would be hanging/bolted on the car.
from that point you would spray the panels using the same sealer as you used to do the main body of the car.
you would spray it in exactly the same way using the same gun speed and at the same distance from the panel.
your color coats you would do in exactly the same way being sure the used the same speed reducer and with the exactly the same mixing ratio with the same exact same amount of coats.
you would also do the same when it comes to the clear coats.
with some colors like silver and gold's with just a little heaver or lighter coats of clear this will change the shades of the colors making them either to light or to dark.

with the fenders that are posted here on this posting unless you know exactly how you sprayed them right down to the air pressure you sprayed them at you would be going thru hell trying to match the adjacent panels.
so this would be a blending into the adjacent panels.
both doors most likely the hood and cowl along with also repainting both fenders over again.
most people screw up painting silver and it not even matching the blend panel to the adjacent non blended panel.
the biggest reason for this is they will put full wet coats of clear on the hope blent panel.
this is how you would do it :

you 1st need to prep the two fenders with a proper grit paper to get proper adhesion for your sealer ( if using ) and your base coat color. the blend panels should only need to be scuffed with a product like SEM's scuff and clean using either a white pad or a gray pad. the colors of scuff pads do not always determine the grit's of a scuff pad.
when I do a blend after the panels are all prepped and masked I will run a piece of masking paper down the edge of the blend panel masking it so the sealer and the base from the panel that is needed to be paint will not get onto the blend panel.
I will then get my full coverage of the base color on right up to the point of ready for clear coating.
at this point you unmask the blend panel and now blend the color onto the blend panel and also into the newly painted panel. staying at least 1/2 way across the blend panel from the non painted panel.
once the blend is done and your blend and newly painted panels are matching you can now spray on the clear coats.
lets say your looking to do two coats of clear.
the 1st coat of clear you only spray about half way down the blend panel.
you do not spray all the way to the edge of the blend panel where it meets the non blend panel.
on your next and last coat of clear you will spray this coat all the way to the edge of the non blend panel.
most every painter ( well no if they were a painter they would know how to do a blend ) ok so sprayer what they do is spray every coat of clear over the hole blend panel. after they peal the masking off they tend to see the blend panel is now darker than the non blend panel .
this is because the light has now more clear to pass thru throwing the color off making it look darker.
now the question is don't you need at the least two coats of clear on a panel that you are painting?
NO because you didn't put base over half the blend panel you will still have the original clear on that area. the original clear on the blend panel is enough UV protection to protect the old base under it. then your one single coat of clear is just a little more protection. the mil build from a single coat of clear is enough to color sand and buff if needed. but this again comes down to being a sprayer or a painter. most every car does have even a touch of orange peal to it so matching the texture is just as important as matching the cars color. most sprayers have to buff everything they spray because the work isn't good enough to get the texture to also match.

[drcoastline]

They look great Bill. Looking forward to seeing them mounted.

[Bill Douglas]

Thanks. I just need to get around to it...

[mhurwitz]

962porsche is right on…as usual. The odds of the fenders matching the doors is almost nill because of so many variables. His blending technique of using only 1 coat of clear next to the unblended panel is very important and right on for color match also. The fenders won’t match the hood either…..but you can usually get away with it because of the sharp angles….as long as your blendable color match is close enough.
Note: it goes without say that you de-trim any panel you are blending….

[Bill Douglas]

Yes, I need to do the hood. and sooner rather than later as it has some rust appearing

I've painted the engine lid about six times to get my skills up to the level need for the fenders. In most lights... most lights I say hesitantly... It looks excellent. but in some lights I can tell the difference between the old and new. So I'm reasonably confident I can blend the fenders into the doors with a subtle change that just looks like the car is being viewed from a different angle.

I'l do the cowl (bit between the hood and windscreen, I think it's called cowl) too.

[Antomero]

I’m also having my fenders repaired and painted in the original single stage formula due to rust.
The fenders are off the Porsche and sent out for the repairs.
The Porsche’s paint is mostly original India (red) and hoping the newly painted fenders will match the hood and doors. I’m being optimistic and thinking the fenders will match. We’ll see!

[Bill Douglas]

Good luck. And I think luck does come into it a bit.

Now that I know a little bit about car paint I'm noticing bad repairs and paint on lots of cars. As per usual they are metalics looking a little different to other panels when the light changes.

I'm sure you will be fine. My paint supplier, who is an ex car painter, tells me metalic silver is the hardest one to get right LOL I think my next car will be a white one.

[drcoastline]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Good luck. And I think luck does come into it a bit.

Now that I know a little bit about car paint I'm noticing bad repairs and paint on lots of cars. As per usual they are metalics looking a little different to other panels when the light changes.

I'm sure you will be fine. My paint supplier, who is an ex car painter, tells me metalic silver is the hardest one to get right LOL I think my next car will be a white one.

Silver metallic is very difficult.

[sduser]

Other than Ford's paint code YZ, white can be difficult as well.