Training starts on day 1. No "ah, it is a puppy, let's feed it some food off the table and take it on our laps. If the dog isn't going to go on furniture (it shouldn't!) or on your lap, don't start it. Get the kids on board too, they should understand that the dog is not a toy and that spoiling it will ruin the dog's chance to come along and be a pleasant member of the family.
A lot of the things I like to do with the dogs are around control and making sure the dog undrstands the whole family is alpha and they are at the very bottom of the pecking order. Eat last, eat only when told, go through doors last etc. all reinforces the position of your family vs. dog.
- Crate training (Excellent for potty training, controlling the dog when unattended and travel).
Get a crate on day one. First night should be in the crate, even the ride home can be. I would put nothing in there in terms of padding, the plastic is reasonably comfortable and no accidents eating the pad will happen. Let the dog out to play and walk etc., but when not interacting with it directly = crate. Nights = crate. I would put the crate in a common area that is busy but not drafty - i.e. kitchen. This will be the home base for the dog. Let the dog out at least once every 4 hours, including 1 time at night. Limit food and water intake before bedtime and start extending the duration at night. In 2-3 weeks the dog will call you to be let out if they have to go and may make the night already in one 8 hour session too.
- Stay away from the table when the family eats
Starts day one. Easy: Crate the dog when food is served. Not sure if there is a lot of snacking at your house. Limit snacks with the kids it to times when the dog is in the kennel or vice versa.
- Wait to eat their food until I tell them it is ok
Starts day one. I'd only have one person feed the dog in the beginning. Preferably a grown up. Put food down in the kennel (you want the dog to like the kennel!), hold dog by the collar for a minute away from the kennel a few feet, and then let them go with the release command. I am saying "release command" because this should be something that is NOT "OK". You say "ok" so much in your regular language, that you will accidentally release the dog all the time. Good English words are "go on" etc.
- No human food ever.
Starts day one. Get the kids on board. Tell them the dog will get ill from human food (not even a lie!). Also tell them about doggie beggars and how annoying it is.
- Wait to walk through the door until all humans are through
Starts day one. Just works when on leash. Also get the family on board. I use a command for this even to re-inforce it. Something cute like "who goes first?" works!
- No going out the front door without a release command
Starts day one, see above. "Go on" = same release command than when at the trough.
- No getting out of the kennel w/o a release command
Same. Same release command, or can also use "come" to get that going. After the pup is a few weeks old, the door of the kennel can be used for negative reinforcement. Head comes out without a release command, door comes closing quickly.
- Walk on your side of any obstacles (lamp posts, trees etc. - no tangling up the lead)
First would be to train to walk on a lead. Then when taking extended walks, set the dog up to go the wrong way around poles and start negative reinforcemment (NO!, pull on leash) and positive reinforcement, if they do it right. This is also a good way to stay in control. The dog needs to pay attention where YOU are going, not walk you instead.
- Drop on the spot immediately with a voice (or whistle) command (the dog emergecy break).
This is an advanced command you should start at 6 months. It is a good command to gain better control of a stubborn / high energy dog. This is not a regular "down". The dog here drops on the spot and the head goes between the front toes. This is a command from hunting to drop the dog when shots are fired (rabbit hunting for example) or to drop it if it starts chasing something that's not ok or chasing into a direction of danger (road, barb wire fence etc.). This command requires a lot of negative reinforcement. You have to make the dog go into this position and only when it does, you get off it's case. Let me know when the dog is 6 months and I can walk you through it!
- Lay down and stay put until released. (Good at the pub patio, party, at friends house etc. - usually takes some maturity.)
This is just extending the "down" and "stay" command. Takes focus and consistency.
On the word
consistency. That's probably the most important thing in dog training. You always follow through on your commands, even if it is inconvenient to do so, i.e. when people are visiting. Never give a command to a pup that you cannot reinforce. I.e. do not ask it to "come" if it is not on a lead or within reach where you can make it come to you.
Do short training sessions in addition to the constant training you will do from day one. 1 or 2 times a day for 5 minutes is better than 2x a week for 30. Short attention span will limit what you can do. Even a mature dog benefits from short sessions over long ones. Always end training sessions positively with something the dog can do well. Never end on a bad note. Never train when you are not relaxed and in a good mood. Never train when rushed or distracted.
HTH! Have fun!!!
G