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Redline synthetic tranny lube I have found superior to dino lube such as Stalube. The claim that cheap dino lube is good as or better than synthetic should be noted as baloney, as is the need for changing out dino lube every couple years regardless of usage, as that is a waste of money, it can last many many many years in the transmission. It don't just go bad in a couple years. Base your lube change on usage, it will save you a lot of money and time, and it is better for the environment.
Changing to Redline resulted in smoother shifting in all conditions in several of my cars, but most so in cold conditions. Besure to select the correct product for a transaxle, verses a plain transmission. you need the product that works will with our syncros and differential.
I have had poor shifting trannys with fresh clean dino oil in them, then changed to Redline synthetic and the shifting became like new. It was like a mechanic in a can, saved me from needing a new tranny, and has lasted over 80K miles and counting. I have not tried Swepco lube, I'm sold on Redline
A hint on the fan.... paint the entire fan blade to mark the timing marks, you will appreciate a big colored fan blade once the motor is installed and once the fan gets dirty. A big colored blade is much more easy to find that a tiny mark painted near the scribe marks on the edge of the fan.
Every engine I put together gets the entire blade painted, makes timing and valve adjust so much more easy as you can find the mark in low light and you don't need to crane you head in an awkward position to get an initial sighting of the marks.
I agree with john rogers that you should adjust the valves one cylinder at a time, simply get to that cylinders TDC so both the valves are closed, then adjust as needed, then rotate the crank 180 degrees to the next TDC and adjust, do this for each cylinder in firing order as the crank is rotated.
One trick to help seal the headers to the head is to make sure the copper gasket is fully softened (annealed) this can be done by heating on stove top till it glows red, then allow to slowly air cool, it will become annealed and be softer to allow it to best conform to the surfaces it needs to seal. An annealed washer will make thud noise when dropped on a concrete floor, one that is not annealed will ring like a bell when it hits the floor. The hard washer will also bounce much further than a soft one. use lots of antiseize on the header nuts and studs, and use a self locking high temp nut, no nylocks, no lockwashers as the heat will destroy the function of these locking devices. special nuts with 12 mm hex heads will allow the use of the smaller 12 mmm socket, which can give you more room to work than when using the more common 13 mm hex head nuts.
One more valve adjust hint, as you do the periodic adjustment, record the before and after clearance readings in your logbook, this will help in finding drifting valves, which can mean you got a falling valve seat. If you find that one particular valve is always coming up with for example the need for an increase in clearance every time you adjust, (whilest the other valves randomly come up a little tight then a little loose etc...) then that valve is suspect for failure. You can easily recognize this if you record the before and after valves for review later.
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