No Spark

[SBK930]

Hi all in 930 land.

Have not visited in a while so happy new year to all and hope it is a good one.

To my problem.

I started my 930 and it ran fine for a couple of minutes, then simply stopped. I tried restarting and it turns over strongly and the fuel pumps are running.

Today I removed the lead from the distributor and when turning over there is no spark.

Is it the coil or am I missing something ?

Thanks Steve.

[SBK930]

Just Pulled My Coil.

That was just a bit exciting.................Rawknees

Got 0.4 ohms on the primary and 700 ohms on the inner and the top of the coil is showing a little oil.

Don’t know what the readings should be, buttt, they appear very low from what I have been able to find.

Shot, fried ????

[SBK930]

Next question is what do I purchase for a replacement coil ?

Thanks.

[Dominik 930]

did you check the HKZ?

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Parts Klassik makes an excellent replacement coil that even looks like the original black Bosch - said they were motivated to make their own due to the absolute junk quality of new Bosch coils. I have one and no problems with it, ya' fookin coil pulling freakazoid!

Will try to post link when home later.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Here is the coil, Steve.

Two other common things that cause "no spark" are the coaxial, green wire that goes between the distributor and the CDI box - the wire tends to get cooked and broken where it connects to the distributor - is in a very tight spot (NOT like Deez's azz! ) and difficult to see. Try to check yours (not THAT "yours"! )out with a mirror, and also wiggle the wire (not THAT wire! ) around and then see if you have spark. If it looks like it needs to be replaced, there is a fix for that, but will wait to see what you find before typing all that shiiit!

Also the dinosaur tech CDI box can fail - does yours emit a high pitch whine (different than the high pitched, lusty shrieks that Paul is known for! ) when the key is turned to the run position (turn key to run position, then back to off, and check for the sound)? There are a couple of guys that post on Pelican that rebuild those, but there might be some in your part of the world, as well.

The faackin link won't work because Pelican blocks it for some reason (a competitor of theirs?), so I added spaces between some of the letters - you can copy and paste it into your browser search bar and then delete the spaces, ya' bisch!

https://www.p a r tsklassik.com/p-1586-cdi-ignition-coil-by-part s k l assik.aspx

[infraredcalvin]

Oops

[infraredcalvin]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

Two other common things that cause "no spark" are the coaxial, green wire that goes between the distributor and the CDI box - the wire tends to get cooked and broken where it connects to the distributor - is in a very tight spot (NOT like Deez's azz! ) and difficult to see. Try to check yours (not THAT "yours"! )out with a mirror, and also wiggle the wire (not THAT wire! ) around and then see if you have spark. If it looks like it needs to be replaced, there is a fix for that, but will wait to see what you find before typing all that shiiit!

This ^

[SBK930]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

Here is the coil, Steve.

Two other common things that cause "no spark" are the coaxial, green wire that goes between the distributor and the CDI box - the wire tends to get cooked and broken where it connects to the distributor - is in a very tight spot (NOT like Deez's azz! ) and difficult to see. Try to check yours (not THAT "yours"! )out with a mirror, and also wiggle the wire (not THAT wire! ) around and then see if you have spark. If it looks like it needs to be replaced, there is a fix for that, but will wait to see what you find before typing all that shiiit!

Also the dinosaur tech CDI box can fail - does yours emit a high pitch whine (different than the high pitched, lusty shrieks that Paul is known for! ) when the key is turned to the run position (turn key to run position, then back to off, and check for the sound)? There are a couple of guys that post on Pelican that rebuild those, but there might be some in your part of the world, as well.

The faackin link won't work because Pelican blocks it for some reason (a competitor of theirs?), so I added spaces between some of the letters - you can copy and paste it into your browser search bar and then delete the spaces, ya' bisch!

https://www.p a r tsklassik.com/p-1586-cdi-ignition-coil-by-part s k l assik.aspx

Good to see you haven’t changed a bit through my hiatasssss.

Looking forward to “checking mine” and getting into some tight places.

I will get right “into it” tomorrow, had a harrrd lonngg day today

[SBK930]

Originally Posted by SBK930

Good to see you haven’t changed a bit through my hiatasssss.

Looking forward to “checking mine” and getting into some tight places.

I will get right “into it” tomorrow, had a harrrd lonngg day today

Update on my coil trouble.

So I visited my local Repco store who had a NGK coil in stock.

I installed the new coil and have a strong spark from it.

Still no start

Further investigation required.

[Speedy Squirrel]

Take the cap off and look at the rotor.

[SBK930]

Originally Posted by Speedy Squirrel

Take the cap off and look at the rotor.

Next chance I get mate.

These dizzy caps are a right bitsch to remove. I just can not get to the other side to release it. So it’s off with the intercooler and bits. Will post what I find.

Thanks Speedy Squirrel.

[Bucketlist]

Originally Posted by SBK930

Next chance I get mate.

These dizzy caps are a right bitsch to remove. I just can not get to the other side to release it. So it’s off with the intercooler and bits. Will post what I find.

Thanks Speedy Squirrel.

If I remember correctly it was a tiny common screwdriver (like one of those we used to get for free) maybe helped by a pair of pliers and a few choice words that got that back screw loose.You really need to get in there. I thought I had a picture but couldn't find it.
Good luck!

Oops, I just remembered that mine is the twin plug distributor which may be different and quite a bit larger.

[SBK930]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

Here is the coil, Steve.

Two other common things that cause "no spark" are the coaxial, green wire that goes between the distributor and the CDI box - the wire tends to get cooked and broken where it connects to the distributor - is in a very tight spot (NOT like Deez's azz! ) and difficult to see. Try to check yours (not THAT "yours"! )out with a mirror, and also wiggle the wire (not THAT wire! ) around and then see if you have spark. If it looks like it needs to be replaced, there is a fix for that, but will wait to see what you find before typing all that shiiit!

Also the dinosaur tech CDI box can fail - does yours emit a high pitch whine (different than the high pitched, lusty shrieks that Paul is known for! ) when the key is turned to the run position (turn key to run position, then back to off, and check for the sound)? There are a couple of guys that post on Pelican that rebuild those, but there might be some in your part of the world, as well.

The faackin link won't work because Pelican blocks it for some reason (a competitor of theirs?), so I added spaces between some of the letters - you can copy and paste it into your browser search bar and then delete the spaces, ya' bisch!

https://www.p a r tsklassik.com/p-1586-cdi-ignition-coil-by-part s k l assik.aspx

Hi Rawknees,

I have got into the dizzy and to me the green wire looks OK.
The rotor looks OK
The cap looks OK

Question is are these dizzys more like a magneto and have no points ?

Yes the CDI makes a whine, when in the on position and after turning off continues for a few seconds then sounds like it clicks off.

Thanks Steve.

[Speedy Squirrel]

It’s the same principle as a magneto, but the voltage is low. When the teeth on the rotor star wheel line up with the teeth on the magnetic stator, the voltage in the little coil in the distributor changes. The green wire provides that signal to the CDI box, which charges and discharges the capacitor into the coil.

Measure the resistance on the rotor between the center contact and the tip.

[H/O Driver]

Steve,
Even though the green wire looks good, since your at this stage anyway, I recommend you check resistance between the two terminals on that wire. My wire looked OK, well for the most part, but it ended up having an internal short (it's a coax wire).
Good luck,
Bob

[dbltrbl]

Well, today i was wondering why mine doesnt run, took cap off, removed rotor, resistance was 10 times more than on new one, tried to reinstall new rotor, not enough room, removed ic, reinstalled everything and it started right away!

[SBK930]

Originally Posted by H/O Driver

Steve,
Even though the green wire looks good, since your at this stage anyway, I recommend you check resistance between the two terminals on that wire. My wire looked OK, well for the most part, but it ended up having an internal short (it's a coax wire).
Good luck,
Bob

Dizzy out and green wire checks out ok.

Had the CDI rebuilt back in 2012 and it has not done a lot of klms since.

I have removed it to send away however is there any way I can check to see if it is ok ?

[SBK930]

Originally Posted by SBK930

Dizzy out and green wire checks out ok.

Had the CDI rebuilt back in 2012 and it has not done a lot of klms since.

I have removed it to send away however is there any way I can check to see if it is ok ?

Found a quick YouTube on testing one of these CDIs.

There is mention of the high pitch from the CDI and showing no spark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9zJXqhIiVo

[SBK930]

Originally Posted by SBK930

Found a quick YouTube on testing one of these CDIs.

There is mention of the high pitch from the CDI and showing no spark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9zJXqhIiVo

Found a test kit.

Would like to be able to go to the tool box and find one of these.

Another quick YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qd_Zioln0-o