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donbecker1234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 522
G50 questions...

1. Is discoloration on the inside surface of the flanges (where the CV's mount) an issue, or indicative of an issue, or is it considered normal wear?



2. I have my engine and transmission out. I've cleaned the outside of the G50, and planned to replace the bushings on the accelerator pivot only. Given that my car has low/no maintenance history, should I separate the transmission and engine to clean up the inner bellhousing and check for any issues (such as the clutch shaft)?

If there are any seals or bearings that are reasonably replaced I'd be up for it. I have torque wrenches, 20 ton press, etc. I do plan on replacing the CV fasteners with locking ones as some of my CV bolts were loose.

I'm new to splitting transmissions from engines so be gentle. Trying to prevent making even more work or just breaking something.

There were no known issues with the transmission prior to pulling it. Shifted just fine, no strange noises.

Thanks in advance.

Old 04-19-2020, 06:35 PM
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I see in the Bentley that I need to remove the clutch cross-shaft.

Do I need to have a slide hammer to do this, or is there another way?
Old 04-19-2020, 06:46 PM
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The discoloration is normal, even out of the box new flanges have it. Yes you will need a slide hammer for removing the bearing. I would check your clutch and pivot shaft by all means.
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Last edited by lite75; 04-21-2020 at 06:15 AM..
Old 04-21-2020, 06:11 AM
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Thanks!
Old 04-21-2020, 06:27 AM
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I barely remember working on my G50 around 2006 ... I do recall they had a problem with clutch shaft bearings - there is a replacement bushing kit available from Pelican that is used to replace the original parts. You should probably check whether you need this while it is separated from engine -- also good time to replace the output shaft seal, etc.
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Emery

1988 930 coupe - Silver Metallic
TurboKraft 3.3L 8:1 CR, SuperSC Cams, GT35R, B&B Headers, TK intercooler, Tial WG, ARP, tecGT based phased sequential EFI & ignition, Wevo shifter/coupler, ...
Old 04-21-2020, 04:13 PM
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Hi Emery,

Yes, I’ve read a bunch of the past threads on here, with lots of confusing info about what the best fix was. What’s your take?
Old 04-21-2020, 04:15 PM
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The kit I used was pretty basic a I recall. I think I installed brass/bronze bushings~sleeves, basically with lube. Worked fine and easier than with the parts I replaced. Current kits may be superior - not sure.
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Emery

1988 930 coupe - Silver Metallic
TurboKraft 3.3L 8:1 CR, SuperSC Cams, GT35R, B&B Headers, TK intercooler, Tial WG, ARP, tecGT based phased sequential EFI & ignition, Wevo shifter/coupler, ...
Old 04-22-2020, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donbecker1234 View Post
2. I have my engine and transmission out. I've cleaned the outside of the G50, and planned to replace the bushings on the accelerator pivot only. Given that my car has low/no maintenance history, should I separate the transmission and engine to clean up the inner bellhousing and check for any issues (such as the clutch shaft)?

If there are any seals or bearings that are reasonably replaced I'd be up for it. I have torque wrenches, 20 ton press, etc. I do plan on replacing the CV fasteners with locking ones as some of my CV bolts were loose.
Definitely do the factory release shaft update while its out if not already done, no question. The originals seize/roller bearings disintegrate, if I recall correctly.

As for going deeper - I would, while its out, if there's any mileage on it.

I bought a 95K G50/01 from a targa t-boned at a traffic light, from the shop that used to maintain it. Said it had shifted great, no issues.

It was going to be shortened, spray bars, billet cover, GT LSD anyway. So apart it came for machining. For reassembly, the brief was "not made of money, but if it's a wear item and worn, don't even bother to ask".

Bearings, seals, various moving parts, shift forks etc didn't pass inspection to go back in. Parts bill was $2500 nearly 10 years ago. Remember, this was a "shifts great, no issues" transmission with a mileage that wouldn't prompt you to pull it from the car.

I would replace the clutch fork as a matter of course if it's the original, 30+ year old aluminum in a stressed application. Stress cracks on the ends of the fingers aren't especially unusual. And release bearing is kind of a no-brainer while you're there, because it's cheaper than a ride in a flat-bed...

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Old 04-22-2020, 06:01 PM
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