3.2 Turbo Build

[greglepore]

Sorry, the 4 post lift isn't ideal for photos. Let me know if you need anything else.
Protomotive did the air intake on a large K&N filter mounted under the parcel shelf with a pipe down to the turbo inlet.
No real muffler, just a resonator. Its pretty throaty...

[Tippy]

One day I’m going to route my wastegate outlet to the head pipe before the muffler. I HATE the tone of open WG.

I made a muffler for mine but it’s still a little too loud.

[greglepore]

Its a very clean way to do it, but I need to upsize the wg due to the bigger turbo, and larger modern ones are not bolt in (v band etc ) so will need to rework the exhaust. I'm living with the creep for now running a .5 bar spring, it'll creep to .7 or so in big gears/high rpm but intercooled its probably ok that way. I don't don't often do that anyway as it involves speeds that are uncool on most roads here.

[greglepore]

Its a very clean way to do it, but I need to upsize the wg due to the bigger turbo, and larger modern ones are not bolt in (v band etc ) so will need to rework the exhaust. I'm living with the creep for now running a .5 bar spring, it'll creep to .7 or so in big gears/high rpm but intercooled its probably ok that way. I don't don't often do that anyway as it involves speeds that are uncool on most roads here.

[Coultl]

So helpful Greg! Thank you. I'm even more of a fan of the side mount after seeing this. Very nice install.

I see that the turbo oil drain is a gravity drain into the lower cam cover. So nice and simple. The wastegate location is different from what I was thinking but it makes sense. I can't quite see how the WG connects to the pre turbo exhaust. Looks like maybe it's pulling from the turbine housing.

What turbo are you running? Looks pretty large.

I was planning to run more muffler/resonator than you are. I'd like to keep it somewhat close to stock loudness. How does it sound?

[greglepore]

Correct, the w/g is on a flange on the inlet.
Turbo is a GT35r from "cough" asia. I didn't want to rebuild the original protomotive setup that runs from the heat x to the turbo, and the original turbo that Proto used back in the day was a Buick Grand National setup with the square inlet and complex bolt on outlet flange-my choices were a custom Precision or a $350 ebay thing, so I went with that knowing it might be junk. But its been ok for 2 yrs at the mileage I use the car at. Its VERY close to the back tire...
Probably would have made sense to use a real gt35 and have everything done with vband. Live and learn.
The "hassle" side mount is the air intake plumbing. Proto's solution was pretty good, plus you can hear the loud suck in the car if that's your thing.

[greglepore]

I see you're doing a standalone ecu, good call. I bought a VEMS with the thought that I'd switch to higher flow injectors and eliminate the flapper box, but at my age (mid 60's) I realized that the time I'd spend converting and tuning would likely be the equivalent of 2 years drive time for me (have other toys) so I moved it along. I do worry about afr's but the rising rate fpr has been good for 10+ years and while it's likely rich for safety I'm ok.
Are you planning on recirc for the ic and a radiator or just a spray to waste?

[Coultl]

I recently built a ‘95 Audi S6 and needed to do standalone for that. It’s a fully built five cylinder engine and I’m running 30 psi boost. It’s a beast and well beyond what can be done with the factory ECU. Learning to tune felt like learning a new profession. Watched lots of videos…Evan’s Performance Academy is a great resource. Took me a year I’d guess to really get the car dialed and to feel like I knew what I was doing. The problem when you are your own tuner is that you just keep tweaking things…

I’ll add knock sensors to the 911 engine but everything I’ve heard is that the engine is so noisy that they are basically useless. Will be uncomfortable to tune timing without a good knock signal.

I already have the ECU Master Black for this build and I just got the ID1050 injectors. I really wanted to do something cheaper for the injectors but I’ve used them and know they are solid. Overkill for this build but they will work great.

Yes planning on a radiator with a small fan for the intercooler. I’m thinking I can fit it in the front of the drivers side wheel well. Any other ideas on location? It will not have to be very big. Only time it will need to really dump heat is when the intercooler heat soaks with the engine shut off and I restart it before it fully cools.

[greglepore]

Nice.
DS fender location would be ok, my preference would be to use a ruf or rsr front bumper and center mount the rad and maybe oil cooler...

[Coultl]

I’m still working on the body but I hope to start on the engine in the next month or so. In the meantime I’m gathering parts for rebuild and upgrades. I figured I’d share a few photos here.

Garrett G30-660 with 0.83 turbine housing




Precision Gen 2 46mm Wastegate

[Coultl]

Aasco valve springs and titanium retainers





Patrick Motorsport cam sensor kit

[Coultl]

Kennedy Engineering pressure plate (bought from Patrick Motorsport)



Patrick Motorsport 60-2 lightweight flywheel

[Coultl]

Water to air intercoolers. I bought one from a BMW M3 and one from a Mercedes 450 V8. The Benz unit was only $50 with the DBW throttle body, so I snagged it just in case. Both will flow enough air and provide more than enough cooling. I think I’ll go with the M3 intercooler as it’s a little more compact. The plan is to create custom 3D printed end tanks.

[quattrorunner]

Originally Posted by Coultl

Kennedy Engineering pressure plate (bought from Patrick Motorsport)



Patrick Motorsport 60-2 lightweight flywheel

Sexy parts bro

[Coultl]

I’m tired of body work so I did some noodling on the turbo location.

This started with 3D scans of the car, the turbo, and the wastegate. I’ve used solidworks my whole life but it seems to be going to sh$t so I decided I’d use the project to learn Fusion 360.

After an hour of shifting things around I think this is a good compromise. There’s also a nice spot for the wastegate when the turbo is side mounted.

I’ve also been wanting to try stainless steel 3D printing. It’s not cheap but neither are mandrel bends and fabrication. It’s not done but I think the organic form of the turbo inlet pipe will look pretty sweet.

[quattrorunner]

That’s fun.
I like that spot I can’t tell are you dumping the waste gate or bringing back into the exhaust?
The j-pipe swap out makes sense for side mount of the turbo. I’ve seen that idea I think before. You’d want to support from the valve covers but I worry the bolts are too small? Is there a better way to support? Interesting.
How much $ does printing parts like that cost?
Also do you plan to scan the exhaust flange bolt area for the j-pipe bolts or weld this stuff?

[flightlead404]

How are you ducting the induction inlet of the turbo? It's unclear to me from the really cool pics.

[Coultl]

This first pass was mostly just about finding the right position of the turbo and wastegate. I have not yet created the compressor side plumbing (in and out) or anything on the out side of the turbine.

The intake will be routed up and into the engine bay. I'd rather do something more OEM than a cone filter...but it might end up being a cone filter with a shroud.

I'm trying to keep the wategate path straight and short...but it will reenter the exhaust stream ahead of the muffler/resonator. There will be a lot of bypass and I'm not into raw wastegate noise.

The cost for the turbine intake pipe as it is in the CAD would be roughly $300 in 304 stainless. I'm not yet sure if I will reused the existing 2 to 1 that merges the two banks. I think I probably will keep it and weld it to the 3D printed part.

And yes, I was thinking I'd make a bracket that mounts the turbo to the valve cover studs. The studs are M8 so the bolt is big enough, but I have not looked at the head to make sure it's all strong enough. If I'm worried about it, I'll probably just increase the number of studs that bracket mounts to from 2 to 4.

[greglepore]

That's pretty close to where my Precision kit locates theirs. The air intake is on a long pipe that's routed under the rear shelf with a pretty long/large K&N filter on it-protected from the weather there, but you do hear it in car. I kinda like that, but I'm sure its not everyone's taste.
As mentioned earlier, check rear wheel clearance, its close there.

[Coultl]

It’s pretty close to the same spot. From what I can tell from the photos, I have it pushed a little further back further in which should give me more cleance. I’ll get the wheel into the CAD and get a better idea of how much room I have. Your turbo looks much higher which is better but I don’t get how they had room for that. My current location is too low for the turbo to drain into the cam cover.